Kbird1

John try posting on the HD Forum"s as Chief has different abilities.... https://hometalk.chiefarchitect.com/ M.

There ARE a tonne of cameras in his plan , reshooting would be a major Pita

Ahhh okay I wondered about that Yep it appears that Chief goes back to using the narrowest wall for the height set (109+8") and then gives the other walls a full width Birdsmouth Seat cut ,which varies the plate height and screws up the ceiling lines though the fascia heights appear correct. M.

I use group select > changed the Birdsmouth by 2" per your original experiment..... I just tried it again ,group selected and transform/rep. move 8" on z axis and the original plates stayed as did the ceiling and chief built a short wall above with new plates , so weird yes , if I do the same at 2" it doesn't build the small wall it alters the Birds mouth. Not sure if this is possibly cos of the weird wall arrangement being 6/8/10/12" around the building. M.

It's a bit strange Scott , I played with this tonite again and if I AutoBuild the roof over the square house with .6.8.10.12" walls I don't get these inconsistences , wall plates stay where they should,(109")whether I raise the roof planes individually or, all 4 roof planes together via group select ,so might be a good case for building Auto 1st then Fix if needed, ie the "Perry Method". I did however have different fascia heights etc when building the roof manually over the same different width walls but did not test if the "Same height Eave " button would fix this inconsistency. Something for a Manual Roofer to check out probably. M.

Thanks Scott , I was trying to understand this myself ,as I had done it before ,though not with your particular settings , I'll have a bit more of a look at it so I understand what is happening. I build roofs like Perry , auto then fix the "screw-ups" or weird conditions manually ,reading Lew's Post above, I don't know if that changes things if you do yours all manually ? Mick.

Ok , lost those 31 minutes j.j. , I'm no expert at Chief , but I have been Building for 30+yrs, so I may "see" things a bit different than you, but generally the BM Cut, seat cut is equal to the Wall framing thickness so the ceiling lines in right at intersection of the wall and Roof Framing, which is why Chief tries to automatically set that cut distance depending on the wall framing, note that the DBX is often slow to update ( no apply button) so you may need to close the DBX and reopen it immediately to check it. eg if you change the Auto. BM Cut in the Roof DBX to say 3 1/2" the seat cut will still show 5 1/2" until you close the DBX and reopen it. You are right, in that you can not adjust the Birdsmouth for a individual roof plane , you can however do it for the entire roof in the Roof DBX if that works for your Plan. If you want to Raise the BM Cut on a single Roof Plane , raise the Roof Plane's Baseline via the Wall DBX, with the pitch locked, it has the same effect . But if you have no ceiling (Joists) in the Room, you would need to lower the room height ,by an equal amount so the apex of the Ceiling/Wall joint is still at standard height. ie 109 1/8" (or accept the extra height-- pics below) The Wall plates don't jump up and down on a normal wall ( for me) , but that wall with 3 different thickness you had, is a special condition and different wall plate heights etc would be expected depending on what you are trying to line in as you saw, it's not uncommon to see different Plate heights when trying to plane the rooflines in especially if the Roofline is Complicated and you want the seat cut as wide as possible for bearing. these are some "snips" I took as I was playing with this , I used X6 Trial as I thought from your comments it was doing something different than X5 , and as I said no expert here in Chief ,so maybe I am still doing something wrong or not seeing something? if you play with this more , make sure Auto Roofs is still on ( had this prob. myself tonight) as playing with any roof plane manually forces it off .

what they were try to say was open the Wall DBX (no 1) and then

Buying HD Pro is $500 , so is SSA, but with SSA you will get X7 when it comes out , the option is just to let SSA expire and continue using X6/X7 without SSA, it's not like the Program will stop working or anything . BTW it is $200 each time to upgrade HD Pro too I think? not quite 1/2 of SSA.

Had a play , thanks Jim , seems I was doing something wrong before , you can get rid of the gutter/roofline with Auto Dormers when set over the Exterior wall. M.

After you already built the framing ? yes you can (well I can?), go back into the Build Roof DBX , turn off A.B.C , make the birdsmouth cut -3 1/2 " instead of -5 1/2 " and the roofline pops up 2 " Or make roof height 2" instead of 0" for the same effect. you do have auto rebuild roofs on right ( or rebuilt after trying it?) I will check out the vid tomorrow cos I guess I am obviously missing something in your question , seems to work here....

I see you used trusses to define the ceiling in game room are you sure it is the right size ? Plan is slow for me too in 3D my old videocard is only 1GB too like yours.... Mick

yes Render is standard 3d OPenGL views , you would need to upgrade the videocard to increase it's ram eg to a Nvidia 770 0r 970 card. eg to 2 or 3 GB More computer Ram ie 16 GB would help ALL programs But neither may help much if you have some high poly count items in your plan eg of 3D warehouse. it's slow in plan view or 3d view?

what am I missing ? not understanding ? can't you just alter the birdsmouth cut in the Build Roof DBX by 2" to raise it ? ( turn off auto ABC 1st)

I think you are right about it being a Barrel not an Eyebrow Dormer Jim , but I am not so sure Auto Dormers will work in this case as the Dormer is inline with exterior wall and not located in a single roof plane ie if it was back 12-16" or more back like in your pic. You can drag it down but you are left with the Gutter/fascia. Perhaps I wasn't doing something right in the past ? M.

can you not set the pic above as your texture in the materials def. window ? (you may need a better pic though? a seamless texture ) Re the size......I find a lot of Chief's Pattern scales are way off by about 10X usually , set the scale size to 0.1 instead of 1 and try it , or play with it till it measures right, the Siding I just did I had to scale to .166 to make it measure correctly in an elevation. M.

When you add the 2nd floor DO NOT DERIVE IT FROM THE 1ST FLOOR , add it as a BLANK PLAN , turn on the reference Layer so you can see the 1st floor and then draw the walls over just the rooms you want on the 2nd FLOOR. set the rooms below on the 1st floor to 8ft or 14' as needed

X6 has Save to PDF built in .... but no reason not to have another PDF Print Driver too they are handy , though I prefer PDF995 , CutePDF has a bad habit of installing "extras" such as Comodo Web Browser along with itself. there are more links under additional tools , at the bottom on this page http://www.chiefarchitect.com/usercenter/links.html M.

I think you can adjust your settings in your Profile too , ie for every post , whether it is immediate or you get a daily digest etc etc

No problem , glad you saw the reply before spending the $$$ you didn't need too , still using x5 myself. Haven't made it to Oregon this century but Bend was one of the places I liked , the Oregon Coast is great. M.

that video is from X2 , 4 versions ago , check your manual about winders , it is more automated now , perhaps Chief's video library is more upto date if you have SSA? you can also still do it that way too I guess though but your sig doesn't say what version you use..... see highlighted page 533-534 in the X6 Reference manual ( linked on X6 Help Menu) Winders must be in a room with valid room definition. You cannot create winders in an area composed of only 2 corner walls. If this configuration is needed, enclose the area in with Invisible walls so that a room area is defined To create winders 1. In an enclosed room area, place and connect the stair sections that you want to be winders. For best results: • The stairs should be two straight sections connected by a curved section between them; • The curved section should be adjacent to a 90° corner, as illustrated. 2. Select any subsection of the stairs and click the Open Object edit button to open the Staircase Specification dialog. 3. On the General panel, place a check in the box beside Winder and click OK. 4. The steps nearest the wall corner adjust their shapes and extend into the corner after the stair is changed to a winder. The Winders attribute directs the stair section to expand or contract to meet nearby walls, and can also be used to create a partial railing. See “Partial Railings” on page 535. Winders sometimes have treads that are too narrow at the inside curve. The Ignore Subsection Boundaries option can address this issue. See “Ignore Subsection Boundaries” on page 529.

a lot of libraries haven't been redone since 2012 unfortunately but you should be able to get an swatch .jpg online at SW to use as a texture for a new colour/material , if not colours are pretty easy as most Manufacturers provide the RGB Colours on their websites , so in this case copy a SW Colour to your User Library 3 times and change the RGB values and names as needed by opening the material and opening the custom colour box to change the RGB values for the colour you copied as needed. Think I just saved you a $500 , where do I collect my 6pack from Okay bonus item took almost as long to type this as to make the new colours Sherwin Williams Colours.calibz you can check the RGB Values online here http://www.sherwin-williams.com/homeowners/color/find-and-explore-colors/paint-colors-by-family/SW7541-grecian-ivory/ note that at least in IE 10 the SW site won't allow direct download of the .png file that is online , so I used the method above. Mick.

They are called Winders , check the manual , but they need walls to snap to / limit them. forgot about HumbleChief tip ...another good one ,not well covered in the manual. EDIT Scott (dshall) has a bunch of free videos you can watch about 1/2 way down this page http://www.chieftutor.com/scotthall3/ M.

I think the tool David refers to only does gable Dormers ? ( more the pity) to do an eyebrow Dormer you will need to do this one manually I think as it is flush with the exterior wall and auto dormers will leave the Roof /gutter line intact. Check the knowledgebase there are several tutorials on how to do Dormer Manually. you will need the one about dormers on multipitch roofs too here http://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/category/234/0/10/Chief-Architect/Roofs/Dormers/ The Roof type is a double pitch ,called a Gullwing roof in the Reference Manual and online help by Chief but basically you need to set two pitches and then the distance in from the wall line that the 2nd pitch should start at like this will get this

you may find it easier to add the walls 1st ( or use temporary walls) as the stairs and landings will "snap to" the corners and walls . stairs and landings usually are the same width but not always ,so David's tip is a good one .....use the break line tool to place a break next to the staircase on the landing's edge will allow it to auto join at the right height which it won't do without the break. M.