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  1. Building a 12 x 16 basic shed (largest size permitted w/o permits!) Not a big deal but Auto Framing it doesn't result in the way you would actually construct it. Studs are "off" by a few inches so a 4x8 sheet of any OSB (or Plywood) would NOT end up in center of stud. Is this due to I changed the floor joists to be 12" OC instead of 16" OC? Still useable for buying materials. Just wondering if its something I did or maybe I just never noticed B4?
  2. I have never needed terrain B4 since always dealt with flat lots. Now I have jumped right to extreme. A mountain hillside. I have more or less figured out how to model a 25' steep slope site except for the "building pad". In real life a roughly 75x90' flat pad was "bulldozed" out of the hillside by pushing ALL the "fill" forward across the hill leaving a huge pile of dirt off to one side. Thought it would be easy to use Ter. Modifier "Flat Reg. cut/fill" tool to replicate this. It appears that CA always "bulldozes" 1/2 of the dirt UP the hill and 1/2 of dirt downhill. The downhill "pile of dirt" creates a very steep 45-50' slope on the edge that then joins the hills 25' slope. IF I could just push the flat region strait back into the hillside and not have the pile of dirt on edge on down slope it would be perfect. Am I using the wrong modifier or ? ALSO - since the pad is not a perfect rectangle I thought converting it to a spline would make it more realistic. However that seems to create more problems like tiny "valleys" in the "fill dirt piles"! I have tired adding a few terrain point at -12" and they help mellow out the "tiny valleys" but not enough! Like I don't struggle enough with CA. Terrain making me feel pretty stupid! Seems like "less is more" since at first I tried to place Terrain Splines as if they were Topo Contour Lines. CA created some really exciting "rock climbs"!
  3. When CA auto generates a roof how does it determine size of Rafters (Thickness of roof). I assume that 2x6 lumber rafter would be the minimum size CA would create for a small (minimal span) roof. So there probably are set spans at which CA would generate using the next conv. lumber size (2x8 , 2x10 etc) ? Never occured to me that the thickness of a roof could be changed until started messing around with a "patio roof". I figured out how to re-define the space occupied by rafters so I could model a roof only a couple inches thick. I am just thinking of single plane simple rectangular "shed roof". (NOT like a 24' wide garage roof with trusses) Wondering about alternative roofs other than conv. lumber and "comp shingles". Can CA model a "Translucent" roof such as those crummy 26" x 12' Poly Carbonate corrugated panels? Are there any commonly available metal frame roof with clear or translucent panels that are "good quality" or is that strictly a proprietary type of patio / deck cover that one would have to buy "designed, sold and installed "by others". ? Hope that makes sense. Thanks for any ideas.
  4. "Skylift" Metal Beam bracket attaches to double top plate of house. Quick way to support a "floating" roof above a patio or deck. Allows wind (Or BBQ Smoke) to escape thru elevated space (perhaps 1-3') above existing house roof. 2 or more brackets support appropriate size of "beam" (GluLam or other) High enough to allow future re-roofing of existing roof. Roof could be conventional framing lumber or anything like steel or aluminum frame. Ever seen or done one of these roofs? I will ask some questions about possible "Translucent" panels & how does CA "decide" how thick any given roof plane should be modeled in sep. thread. Thanks.
  5. First of all - you guys may be happy I think I figured out how to delete my own annoying posts! (I think) SEARCHING FORUMS - I have NEVER had any luck searching on any forums I have joined such as "Lawn Mowers", DIY network, Appliance/Car Repair forums Etc. EXAMPLE: Tried searching Q & A for: "Chief Architect Instruction" - OR- "Chief Architect Training". Doesn't seem to bring up much related to the question. Is it just me or?........ Thanks for any tips.
  6. Joe & Alaskan, Thanks to you also! By the time all you awesome helpers stop chuckeling I hope to have figured out how delete those pesky floor moldings!
  7. Jerry - Thank you! If I followed correctly: I used interior wall tool then defined it to "Interior Railing" Solid. Deleted the wood cap & changed the width. Can't find how to delete the 4" floor molding which is no big deal. ALSO - I just happened to have a "Demo Wall" in camera view and I see that CA shows the actual dry wall gap as if the wall had just been torn out but also shows the 4" floor molding across the floor which is pretty funny! Carefull with the sharp nails guys! ( I can live with it)
  8. Kinda surprised there's not a "Barn Door" in the CA door tool. Search brought up something about using a "Pocket Door" somehow. I figured out how to make one with a "Partition" and some PolyLine Solids. Looks like a 3 year old made it but good enough in "Wall Elevation". BUT- How should this type of door be drawn for a Floor Plan? Would you call it a "surface slider" or "Barn Door"? Need to show the "roller track"? Draw it closed with an obvious arrow in direction it slides open? Is there anything "special" about this kind of door that concerns Build / Fire Depts different than a regular hinged door? Actual will be at least 40" opening for a 42" Door. Hand operated, No lock. Prob. will be "fancy glass" which I assume has to be "tempered" or "safety glass" similar to a glass shower door. Anyway - is there a "Std." way to represent this type of door on a floor plan? Thanks.
  9. I thought when I used the "Half Wall" tool I could easily adjust the height. Is there any simple way to draw a Std. wood stud/sheetrock interior wall but be able to NOT have its height controlled by the room and ceiling? Trying to model clothes changing rooms and an "L" shape corner wall to hide some Gas Cylinders. Need 6' high walls in a room with 9' ceiling. Right now best thing I have come up with is using "Partition" found in the Cabinets Tool. Actual walls might be 3/4" MDF or Plywood -or- maybe regular stud/sheetrock depending on what Build. / Fire Depts will allow. How would most of you do this? Thanks.
  10. Thank You. Nice details on the lowered joists etc. I would be using the old foundation as a form to abandon in place. Then jack house up a foot or so on new. Its sinking into the mud!
  11. CA X9 Premier (2017) I am trying to model a simple 8" concrete stem wall (crawlspace) foundation on std footing. BUT - I want to put a 6" conc. wall with no footing against the 8" wall that CA draws and I want it to be 10" less in height than the 8" stem wall. I can model it using the concrete slab tool. Is that the "best" way? I tried drawing a 6" stem wall and deleting the footing but couldn't figure how to change the height and also it causes CA to change the previously drawn 8" Stem Wall to a 6" thickness.
  12. Hi - Just bought bullet and upgraded after 10 years. K Bird thanks for advice on Home Pro but I went with X-9 Premier anyway! My V10 from 2006/ 2008 ish still runs on a hard CPU but can't email or anything else from it. I think its on Windows XP. (Had to pay a CList Comp. Guru once or twice to keep it going) Is it trash? I think I have everything. CD's, Instructional CD's, Paper Manual, Hdw. Lock, etc. Can anyone use it? Or should I toss it? Thank You & Happy New Year.
  13. GOT IT THANKS! Wow - Unlock Truss Detail in Layers! Could have used that info long ago. Thanks Guys.
  14. Edit Truss Detail ? I am able to create a Kingpost Truss with an energy heal that is 97% perfect. If I mess with the truss envelope in cross section it moves the energy heel pc. into weird shapes and areas. I see the "truss detail" cad drawing but can't figure out how to make any changes. All I need is to drag both ends of bottom cord out to meet rafter tails and create boxed eve. Is it possible to take a go to meeting using a Premier Trial download? ! Roofs are never "easy".
  15. Thanks Gene. Very simple roof but not most common rafter detail. I model roof by clicking "boxed eave" as well as "Flush Eve" and then raising above plate 16" . I also uncheck "birdsmouth" and check "Trusses". Then I can place a 2x6 ceiling joist across room and it extends out 34" so that ceiling drywall & soffit overhang plywood attach to same 2x6. Then 2x4 rafters create a simple triangle "truss" with a 2x6 bottom cord that is on top of wall plate and extends out 34" for boxed eve. (Not the more typical 2x4 rafters that slope down below top plate) When I look at cross section it looks like Premier creates some kind of "attic wall" surfaces. Not sure why. Michael - I have tried using the programs trusses and it comes real close with a "king post truss" but I can't figure out how to move or add cross members such as a short "energy heal" of sorts.