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Everything posted by Kbird1
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Oooops Yes RockWool , I think SpellCheck must have gotten me there it was Roxul but is going through a rebranding at the moment.... My understanding was that Mineral Wool (Roxul) is better at Sound control and also can have a higher R-Value but I have not looked at any recent innovations in that area ( if there has been any?) so I use it in Sound applications but Fiberglass Batt normally. I actually prefer Blown Cellulose in Ceilings, and it's easy in Remodels for top ups etc. Spray Foam if they can afford it (or needed). In Alaska you may have different methods though.... https://www.rockwool.com/a/b/hello/
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Ouch....all that work and you didn't save the symbol plan? tsk tsk
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Double 5/8" works great for Sound Transmission too, and is usually Cost effective but a diligent Installer of Rockwell Roxul/Rockwool is needed too... as Air Cavities/Gaps = Sound Transmission. Make sure to have all penetrations like Electrical Outlets/Switches are Air Sealed too. M.
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See post above too.... but I forgot to mention what you see in Chief maybe different depending on the Zoom Level and the Setting in the Pic. Below in Preferences ...and what you see in a PDF for example.
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I believe they are Controlled by the Active Dimension Default in use when you Click the Auto Dimension Icon.... You can put an Active Dimension Defaults Dropdown box on your ToolBar which makes it easier to switch.... *** use the Edit>Delete Objects>CAD Menu to get rid of the existing ones and try the 1/8 scale Dims instead
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If you just grabbed the Square Wall Edit Handle (where you clicked normally) and moved the wall in ? that shouldn't happen. So as Michael suggested it maybe How you did it , that is causing the Issue.
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Too expand on what Joe said ....Click the Wall >look on the Edit Tool Bar for the Wall Details Icon to see that wall or on the Project Browser Look under Wall Details after Framing your Walls (Build>Framing> select desired Tab eg Wall ,Roof etc) Also, it's good to have your Forum Signature filled in please, especially with the Software Version, and of course a Name is nice too ..............see mine below in Blue for how to do that. If you don't see my Signature then you have them turned off for the Forum Toggle it on in UserName>Account >Signatures...... go to the Upper RH Corner of Forum Window.
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- Assuming you mean a Flat Ceiling at 14'? - Turn off Auto Roof Build ( when you have ALL Roofs in the Plan Auto Built) - Set Room Ceiling to 14' ( 168") -Check Flat Ceiling over this Room -uncheck use Soffit Surface for Ceiling - Possibly change Ceiling Structure to 2x8 or 2x10 depending on Spans - Lower Dining/Kitchen Gable end Window ( check in Overview , raising Ceiling forces it out the Roof) - You'll need to lower your Window in the Living room Gable Wall too (see Image) PM me if things don't work out with one of the Other guys who have already posted above. Mick.
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Chief calls these Marriage Walls ( a term I am not familiar with? ) but it is basically a Double Wall (Furred Wall Type) , there is a KB Article here : https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-00925/using-marriage-walls.html A Double Wall with 5/8" FIRE Drywall TO THE RIDGE BOARD usually gets you by for Code but Soundproofing as also a big issue , but checking with the Local City ( to the Build ) is important , as many City's also have there Own Fire Code on top of the National Code. M.
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Thanks again Rene...
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Thanks ... will look for the next Post May I suggest Copy and Pasting the above Post into the Tips Section...and continue from there....if one is so inclined thx.
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I was just reading in another Thread that for Gable Walls ( ie on your Garage) you need to set the Gable Wall to Balloon Framing to get it working in "Print Model"
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Hmmmm not sure why Support would not suggest that...... was going to be my 1st suggestion too.... Not a Desk but similar Idea....
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I would exchange the SSD for the Samsung 960 EVO or 960 Pro .(.slightly newer Model ) faster than the WD ... I have the EVO but if a Corporate Buy the Pro maybe better ( longer warranty) I would also take a second look at the i7-8700K CPU on a Z370 MB , there have been heat issues on the X299 Platform ...not sure if that is resolved or not ? And a larger CPU AIO ie 240 or 280 mm ( eg Corsair H110 or H115 or Arctic 240mm Freezer, which I also have) if you are going to RayTrace versus use the new PBR Camera . The 120 AIO will have to work too hard to keep up especially if you Overclock at some point and will be noisy as the Fans will be at 85%-100%. ( eg I previously had the H80iGT and it worked it was just ramped up under RT Loads) I can't comment on the Company but if you are not a computer Enthusiast ? I suggest using a Local Company , local support can make a big difference. I'd be happy to fly in for a Govt. Service Contract though M.
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Hi Johnny / Scott , I was just wondering after a few weeks how you are finding the Performance of these Laptops with the Nvidia 4GB 1050Ti ? I am thinking of Ordering the Acer Version since the Lenovo Versionis not available here Acer Nitro 5 AN515-51-76YG 15.6" Laptop (i7-7700HQ, 16GB DDR4, 256GB SSD, Windows 10 Home) It won't be my Main computer , I have a desktop for that , but I'm hoping it is good enough when I am on the Road or need to Show Clients Renders rather than Emailing them Images. Mick.
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I would of done the same on the garage ..... ie drawn my own Slab to replace the auto one , if Joey's "fix" didn't work.... to fill in your Signature like this .... go up to the top RH Corner above and click on your UserName> Account Settings> Signature.... and enable Signature (will Turn Green) at the Top , then add your Hardware Details and Chief Software Version, as different Versions require different Answers. M.
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@ACADuser It would be best for Alan to answer you as I don't know what He did for you or what it is you need...He is familiar with both. Model Space and PaperSpace is the most common issue when exporting from ACAD I am not really a big ACAD User ......I bought Chief cos I didn't like it
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They are the Light Source Placement Indicators ....not the Light Direction Indicators ...... ( the light direction is 45° BTW ) You can edit them and their Heights in the Light Data Drop down , each one is seen as a separate Light Source in the Light Data Tab Dialog Drop Down. There is a slight error, in that Rene has set the Symbol at -10" to make it look Right, but this has the effect that the Bounding Box and "Insert Point" does not show at the correct height when you are trying to align it on a wall in 3D. The Symbol is easily adjustable though ....just don't add more than 11 light "Sources" , because at least for me when trying to save it to the Library Chief Crashed and I lost that Setup. Mick. P.S. Thanks for another Symbol Rene ! @Renerabbitt
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My guess would be your Dims. are not set to Use 1/16th currently OR your Snap Grid is not set to 1/16th too , thus allowing you to Draw to that same Accuracy in the 1st Place. For the Existing Drawing you could try Rounding the Dims differently eg to 1/4" to see if the 1/16th Fractions disappear. Lew's Suggestion Post covers most of it from another thread Last month. M.
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What Mark said.... if you close the View without Saving it , you are deleting that that View... it even asks you before doing it the 4 Auto Elevations are Auto-saved , that's why the are always there... , if you use Auto Elevations off the 3D menu M.
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Found it ......it would seem you forgot this "nugget" from last September Glen's Original post is higher up..... Post # 16 worth a read too later in the Thread Above
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Thanks Vinnie , it will save others alot of time I think.... just edit the 1st Post and you can add AMD to the Title Too... Mick.
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see post 29 please.... thx.
