rgardner

The new Mac pros start at $6k and go up to north of 60 so yes they are extremely capable and able to be upgraded completely. My Mac pro is 2 years old (previous version) and runs GREAT. It is difficult to upgrade the GPU on those models but it comes with dual capable units so I should be good for many years. My laptop for travel is a pretty good unit and is probably similar to the new Mac mini but I always bring my Sonnet breakaway puck travel E-GPU (external video card) which gives me the higher capabilities. If I was looking at upgrading to a new unit I would probably go with the new MacBook Pro 16” laptop hooked up at home to some much larger high resolution monitors, with maxing out the ram and GPU option. Probably a good $3-3,500 computer though.

That is a very good friend. All of the Minis I have used or seen come with a built in GPU not a dedicated and are not able to be changed. A newer one may be different but either way Chief will work with enough power and ram behind it but will not be amazing for PBR or regular rendering. There are external gpus that can be added and make it a very good system. They are really more like a laptop for power in a small form factor but they are great little machines and if you give Mac a chance you will not go back!

YW

I believe the OP was trying to figure out how to add it to his library. Unless I misunderstand his question.?.? Has definitely happened before.

Same answer for the walls. Export and import from your template.

Was the floor manually changed leaving a double floor thickness? What is the ceiling below set at? Could it be 8” joists and 8” rafters?

In times last it was pretty reasonable $99 per year. Just FYI if you do end up hoonh to premiere they generally give a good discount towards the upgrade.

Probably an easier way to do it but add one of each to your library. Unblock and adjust words.

Put a an invisible box around the text (change line style to the blank line or change the color to background). Reselect both the hidden box and the text box and block them together and add to your library.

Did you designate the rooms as porch and deck? Sometimes if it’s set as unspecified it will drop it down to the foundation “room” below.

Yes Michael I think you are right he was specifically talking about the title label. I do the same thing for each page. Set it up on my template as I have pages for everything there with the labels all centered as yo mentioned.

Yup best way to do it for renderings. But note that will not copy the plan rather it makes it a 3d symbol so once you have done that it is not able to be adjusted like a regular plan. Make sure you have a saved plan of the garage. if you are good with the house and the garage and are just trying to do a 3d rendering you can do it with both the house and the garage in a separate file to keep it streamlined in size when you add lots of landscaping/hard scaling details.

Not at my computer. Can you change your line style to the blank line and your arrow to background color?

Select your terrain poly line and click show length and angle. All sides will show up. The downside is all have to be in the same location so for example above the line preference is set on the upper line the dimension shows above the polyline on the outside of it, the lower shows inside the polyline and the same on the sides one outside one inside. Most of the times not an issue but I had one recently I had to manually place text that showed the line. I have not done this personally but another option is to do a leader text line with the macros for show length and show angle if you needed to place it remotely. Then you can “hide” the arrow and line if you want by changing line style and arrow color.

The brightness of the image helps give it that same look as well. Check out @TimSchrock ‘s vídeo on importing jpg files: https://youtu.be/PBBqTcJOiJc

I believe he is asking about vertical centering. In the rich text box there is a line spacing option in the paragraph box to the top right. Regular text is easier as in the attributes tab there is a setting for top left right and bottom spacing.

I am pretty sure what David mentioned is probably the issue. Is the x two or three pieces? If not when you paint the second color on it will change all directions. helpful?

Remove railings and manually place with the top tread being part of the landing instead of the stairs.

@marinus just wanted to give a plug for @jbaehmer. I actually was the manager and design correspondent with one of those contractors that he worked with in Bellingham at the time I lived there. He does top notch work and is very fast at making accommodations for turn around time when necessary.

He is not actually a bot but is very helpful with newer users. The reason he asks for your signature to be filled out is actually to help you get more responses. The guys on this forum are extremely helpful and generous of their time. But because the majority answers are tied to which version you are using or even sometimes the hardware you have it running on if they don’t easily see the info in your signature line they either have to ask and wait for you to respond or they just simply pass on to the next person who has filled out their signature line. He was trying to give you a helpful hint as there are a lot of new users and many who come from the Home designer line to this forum searching for help. All the best on your search. as far as your question about paint? If you spray paint the color on try using the object option as well as the paint roller mix option to just paint the surface.

I noticed that when I started with x10 and got in the habit pretty quick of hitting tab as it always makes it stick. I believe it is the whole undo/save issue that was talked about in the cabinet dbx thread the other day. It's chief's way of saving us if we make a mistake.

I believe this is what I did when I was struggling with this. I am traveling right now so don't have chief available at the moment. But you can turn off getting the grade height and set another height off of a point and change the label of it to grade. This assuming that you are using the SF as your 0 point.

I just had this exact same situation and it happened to me as well. It was an as-built so the 2d was the only thing important but I did have to prep for an interiors set. I handled the upper walls by drawing an attic wall which filled in the ceiling portion and it built it correctly with the crown molding. The lower portion showed the subfloor instead of a "Riser" type material of some sort so I set a custom backsplash. I still have plans to go back and see if I can figure out why it doesn't seem to be working but had to finish the plan for the Interior designer as it was a crunch situation.

May be an easier way to do this but I have sent the same page over multiple times and crop out what doesn’t fit on the first row starting with the next line on the next row.

Do you have a pic of how you set your desk up for this type of setup. I currently have a pretty full desk by the time I have my standup portion of my desk for those long days when I need to get out of the chair and standup and work, with main monitor keyboard and mouse on it, right side has my second widescreen monitor and desk phone. Left has some real estate available... Seems like it would be tricky to get it positioned in a way to not have to really make a large effort to get to it without breaking the workflow...???? Just curious as I am considering trying out the new app store app. Goal this year is to get more proficient with custom hot keys (and macros...).