rgardner

My personal view and method which is part of the argument to dimension to centers of windows and doors as well is as follows: I set my windows and doors to have the typical 1/2" both sides on windows and 1" on doors in plan but on the schedules I don't show the RO (just remove that column from the schedule) I do show header type and size, egress, tempered glass and other pertinent info for the windows to be ordered properly. But when they get the windows each window will have a sticker on it with the proper rough opening. If they are framing without the windows on site which is common, the order the GC signed also confirms the correct information from the manufacturer. If we dimension to each side of the window it can get confusing but if we do the planning based on 1/2" each side and the actual is only 1/4" then typically it will not cause a problem but rather gives a little extra room for comfort. If we plan for it and dimension to the center of the opening the Framers will be forced to use the EXACT size from the window order for the rough opening resulting in a higher level of accuracy.

You can Create a single layer wall type with Framing 4.5" o.c.+/-

This is a good place to do it but there is also a FB group for hiring. It is a little quirky and there are some rules to follow but it is possible you may find someone there as well.

@Alaskan_Son Posted a good technique for this a while back but it involves having an invisible wall set outside of the main wall with an offset to the door.

This can be exported to DWG by an x13 user but that makes it only cad lines so the model is gone in that case. Your best bet would be to use the trial version to make sure that you have all your fixes/adjustments figured out then hire a competent user to make the needed changes for you in x13... Or you talk to your Dad into upgrading (well worth it from x10 with the major changes.)

Good catch. Trying to do it from my phone and slipped. As Renee is pointing out what you are looking for is your default settings not your preferences. (Post Above edited.)

We appreciate if you are able to update your signature as well.

If you want it to auto connect as in the left upper example then you need the rear points of the boxes to line up. If you are wanting a blank corner from your b15 over to your b24 then you will need to use a base filler or a customized base cabinet.

Just to add to this hint above. If you want to raise your entire floor height instead of changing the rooms from the default room by room make the change in your preferences Default Settings for the default floor 1 ceiling height DBX.

https://cloud.chiefarchitect.com/1/pdf/documentation/chief-architect-x13-migration-guide.pdf Chief provides a nice migration guide for you from one version to the next. Same concept with computers .

Looks like a possible glitch but it appears from the picture to be the subfloor at the height of the open below room. You could delete the subflooring from the floor definition of the open below room. But I would probably try rebuilding the main floor system and if that doesn’t work saving and restarting your computer before I did that.

Yup. Much harder for Apple users and I personally won’t install a program to look at it. So with the same concept of not asking people to download a pdf file to look at your issue instead of including a win rar file I would recommend an actual zip file which natively is able to be unpacked across all systems. Mick is explaining what I said above and if you go step by step paying attention to both posts this will be very easy to do. Best of luck!

This most likely has been covered in other posts so a search will help you. Hint: Typically a filter has been added to your search that is not showing the core catalog. Other culprits are restructuring your file locations.

This has been asked a lot so a search will find what you need. Hint. Use a pony-wall not a half wall.

Doesn't look lie a zip file. But that is a very commonly asked question so you should be able to search for the answer. Hint all auto roofs. large room below with 8' ceiling height (unclick flat ceiling over this room) set pitch on eave end of roof to whatever the pitch is that will give you the required heights (if your building is 24' wide and you are going from 8 to 18' height that means it is a 5:12 pitch). Set your two end walls and upper wall to high gable/shed roof. Set roofs (edited from misprint walls) to ignore 2nd floor, build your 2nd floor loft on the high side of that roof....

Glad you were able to get it to work.

This is exactly what I was talking about and it is doable. You need to have the option showing on your schedule.

use a small room divider perpendicular to the wall you want to "jutt out past the other by about an inch or two" and place that at the line you want to stop at. Sometimes you will need to create it about a foot or more away then snap the wall to it and drag the room divider back to where you want it to stop.

Specifically open up your electrical schedule dbx and take a look at the labels panel.

Please add plan file. It appears you have some bad room settings/manual manipulation that has over-ridden the dynamic portion of chief. Once we know what was done then we may be able to help.

Set up your wall defaults (or in this case change the individual walls) to hang floor system from wall.

Just one small comment to add instead of copy and paste use cut and paste hold position on the foundation level.