rgardner

In this case you will want to use the landing technique.

Are you totally redoing your layout template or just your title block? If you just want to change your title block open up the new temlate and the old layouts and go to page 0 copy from new title block delete existing and paste hold position into the old layout.

I strongly recommend you check out using cabinets for those panels. Easily adjusted to what you want and very quickly. The wall material region was only to cut the brick material back to the sheathing layer. Wainscot Panel.calibz

If you are looking on how to do that panel a combination of a thin wall material region combined with a custom cabinet is one of the easier ways to do a panel below the window.

Sorry Steve but I am not seeing what you are actually looking for other than using the opaque window glass option in both "line drawing" rendering style (1st example) or if you are referring to a "standard" rendering option w/ line drawing option (2nd example). Are you looking for something else?

Alternative is to use the new tool we got in x12 to do a full break of the stairs and make those stairs extend to where you want them.

Just to add to what Stephen mentions 1.) you did not have flat ceiling marked on the wine room when I opened it. 2.) when you use that attic wall (whether you draw a new one or not make sure the exterior of the wall is faced out otherwise there is still an issue (note the highlighted wall with the grip showing wall direction) Alternative method to do it is to create a glass wall for the lower wall with a pony wall above of interior 4. Then place a solid railing wall marked as no room definition at the height you want the lower wall in the same location. Your BOM for the glass would be off but would fix the issue and you can even drop a soffited wall to the glass if you don't want to see the ceiling inside (i.e. hide glare from recessed lighting in that area, or fans, etc.) Of course some futzing would be required for example the missing base molding because it is setback to the glass layer but that is assuming you don't want your glass flush with your gypsum layer which if you did it would be visible instead of centered on the wall layers.

24" W x 600" long x 18" tall Room with walls, & Floor. Auto framed. Used the temporary remove surface tool to show the framing by deleting the 2nd floor sub-floor sheathing layer. Key is to hang the floor system from the walls w/ upside down framing and sheathing on 1st floor and a 0 height 2nd floor. For the different facades you can just add that to your wall definition floor structure for first floor and floor finish for 2nd floor.

Roads will follow the terrain that you have modeled. In order for it to be a certain slope you need to enter data to the terrain to allow it to follow within your constraints. Roads are not an elevation tool such as Rene brings out. Great advice for your particular need. A spline up hill and downhill from your road set to your maximum side slope will give you your side to side elevation, another farther up slope and the correct distance away will give you the stabilized up/down slope that you are looking for. Terrain is an awfully advanced feature for a BIM software so the suggestions given are excellent advice but it takes alot of pre-gained knowledge to use it for a difficult case study like what you are talking about. If you have not found the information by thoroughly familiarizing yourself with the Knowledge base, the help file, Chiefs many videos and articles about terrain and you understand the tools then the next step would be personal training either direct with chief or one of the many excellent trainers amongst our power users.

I used to have a similar setup a couple years back with that monster display (awesome but you could get a serious tan and fry an egg on that thing). Anyways there was a glitch for a while at that time with the OS X amd it had to do with the startup and plug in procedure. I believe if I remember right it was best to plug in before starting the computer and to use the side that was opposite the power side (even though you are supposed to be able to power from any of the usb c there is a certain side that does so faster and cooler. Usually left side I believe with the 2019 16”…. However when I had that issue I was also using a power adapter to charge my mb from the other power cable.

I haven’t done it in a while but seems like there was a specific order to it. Not at my computer at the moment.

You are using a camera view that the layer set has the floor surface turned off. When you turn it on that is when you see it…. That is how layers work, they turn on and off what you want to see. As far as the monolithic slab is concerned it is part of the foundation so is not a floor surface, again on a different layer. Quick tip. Learn to work with your Active Layer Display Options (commonly called ALDO) window open. Click on the item you are seeing and ALDO will show you all layers associated with that item.

Try using the transform replicate tool to resize them all at once. In example, you have 12” pier ftgs and you want 18” = group select them all and use the resize tool to add 50%…

Yup I get that on every trip to layout that I send. Have since beta test and did report and thought several others have as well. It doesn't take more than a couple seconds so hasn't been high on my list but yes it is an issue with my Mac system as well (both desktop and laptop.)

1.) Please start a new post with more details of what you are having a hard time with. 2.) All Caps is generally considered yelling and is most likely going to get your post passed by. 3.) Notes are extremely powerful and the general consensus of best practices is to copy your notes from elevation to elevation but place your single Note Schedule in a cad detail and send it to layout as needed on each elevation page.

For exterior stairs I don't show a breakline generally so that is why I use a reference display. But Glen's method of using an open below room works really well in most cases if you need to show that breakline or not.)

Yeah haven't had time to mess with it either but it does seem odd, since the option is there to align the upper wall to the lower wall interior or center it should stop it. Was curious what would happen if you put a minimal wall cap there.

Wouldn’t making a ledge be also making an infiltration, and maintenance requiring joint all along that wall? I would think it would be better to pull your sheathing out to outside of the CMU and having a nice rain screed to the outside of the cmu surface.

Not at my computer to test it but I think it had something to do with the level the room was on.

Other option is to have a lattice layer if you are going to put it on the underside of the deck anyways.

Place a wall on the level below the deck. Use a single layer wall type with the “opening no material” material.

Needs a wall to build up to on the sides.

Can you pull your outside walls temporarily away from the divider walls and set that exterior room at the higher ceiling height and all the inner stuff at the lower height with shelf ceiling selected and 0 ceiling definition, then pull the exterior walls back to the proper position?

You can set an infinite amounts of reference displays. Look closer at the dbx and set your reference display to what you want to see.

Can't explain it any better than a quality video! Thanks @scottharris