rgardner

I will have to say I am not 100% clear on what your end result is. However I believe what you are trying to do is to get the cabinets to meet in the inside corner and fill in. 1.) You are placing base fillers so that is telling the cabinet to ignore the auto fillers. 2.) The front corners of the bases (the dashed line is the outline of the box) are not touching Couple of ideas to try would be to A. Remove the base fillers and turn the B9R into a B12R and the B12R to a B15R with removing the fillers and allow auto fillers. -Benefit of doing this is that it will auto attach and as long as you have enough space there should be enough room for the doors to open and swing (depending on your cabinet setup). -Downside of doing this is that you will have to manually count/input your fillers or place fillers afterwards making them the proper size you need. All depends upon your workflow and how you use your schedules and do ordering. other option B. Make your BF3 fillers BF4 fillers by selecting them and using the grip on the end towards the angle to make it wider on that end until it's in the same plane as the corner cabinet, then add a BF1 or BF2 on both sides of the corner cabinet so that the are coming together. C. Whatever you end up doing with the fillers you can always do a custom countertop by group selecting the cabinets and using the "Generate Custom Countertop" tool that will appear in the edit bar at the bottom. Hope this helps. @MarkMc probably can describe it and has way more input than me as he is our resident Cabinet GURU but this should get you pointed in the right direction. Best of luck on your studies.

Change the foundation wall type to a 2x2 framing layer with lattice exterior and turn it off of a foundation wall to remove the footing. For the Rim joist to properly show it as a double rim beam you will most likely want to do it manually (use the extend and trim tools and transform replicate object tools) but you could set your rim joist default to the thickness of the double rim and use a detail.

You need to build your foundation so it has a place to put the joists. BTW You changed your default to I-joist in framing but not on your level 1 which was already set as lumber. You also have your sheathing layer set as framing and not your i-joist/lumber selection.

Different slope as I just grabbed a random job and opened up the roof plane to demonstrate.

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you may want to consider the little upgrade cost and go with the 14" with m1pro... Unless you are using it as a display only. 13" is slightly small for form factor on it's own. 14" is pushing it but more doable. Plus have heard some big upgrades from m1 to m1pro.

I am probably wrong on this but cant you do: %surface_area.round(1)% or %surface_area.round(0)%

Thanks for the clarification (was confused because your signature shows x12 only). Very interested in what is happening this year. my mac pro 6.1 desktop still works well but it is probably this coming year for an upgrade for the desktop. Still hoping they come out with the rumored mac pro desktop in small form factor that the rumors are talking about. Something in between the mac mini and the mac pro main product... Otherwise it might be an Imac pro.

Just a heads up that you can mark the material region to remove finish layer or leave it in the dbx for the region. In this case I was using it to cut the brick layer to place your panel flush on the sheathing layer or on top of the house wrap layer.

Looks like you are running x12 and not x13?

Really seems like you are not seeing the power of the cabinet along with the material Regino technique. No patching in the inside. If you want the sill add a molding on the cabinet as well. If you want more of a 3D look make the cabinet deeper and remove the doors set your stiles and rails exactly how you want them and place on top of a wall material region that will cut the brick away. Once you have the style of pattern you want it can be done in probably 2-5 minutes for the first one copied and pasted around as needed very quickly.

In this case you will want to use the landing technique.

Are you totally redoing your layout template or just your title block? If you just want to change your title block open up the new temlate and the old layouts and go to page 0 copy from new title block delete existing and paste hold position into the old layout.

I strongly recommend you check out using cabinets for those panels. Easily adjusted to what you want and very quickly. The wall material region was only to cut the brick material back to the sheathing layer. Wainscot Panel.calibz

If you are looking on how to do that panel a combination of a thin wall material region combined with a custom cabinet is one of the easier ways to do a panel below the window.

Sorry Steve but I am not seeing what you are actually looking for other than using the opaque window glass option in both "line drawing" rendering style (1st example) or if you are referring to a "standard" rendering option w/ line drawing option (2nd example). Are you looking for something else?

Alternative is to use the new tool we got in x12 to do a full break of the stairs and make those stairs extend to where you want them.

Just to add to what Stephen mentions 1.) you did not have flat ceiling marked on the wine room when I opened it. 2.) when you use that attic wall (whether you draw a new one or not make sure the exterior of the wall is faced out otherwise there is still an issue (note the highlighted wall with the grip showing wall direction) Alternative method to do it is to create a glass wall for the lower wall with a pony wall above of interior 4. Then place a solid railing wall marked as no room definition at the height you want the lower wall in the same location. Your BOM for the glass would be off but would fix the issue and you can even drop a soffited wall to the glass if you don't want to see the ceiling inside (i.e. hide glare from recessed lighting in that area, or fans, etc.) Of course some futzing would be required for example the missing base molding because it is setback to the glass layer but that is assuming you don't want your glass flush with your gypsum layer which if you did it would be visible instead of centered on the wall layers.

24" W x 600" long x 18" tall Room with walls, & Floor. Auto framed. Used the temporary remove surface tool to show the framing by deleting the 2nd floor sub-floor sheathing layer. Key is to hang the floor system from the walls w/ upside down framing and sheathing on 1st floor and a 0 height 2nd floor. For the different facades you can just add that to your wall definition floor structure for first floor and floor finish for 2nd floor.

Roads will follow the terrain that you have modeled. In order for it to be a certain slope you need to enter data to the terrain to allow it to follow within your constraints. Roads are not an elevation tool such as Rene brings out. Great advice for your particular need. A spline up hill and downhill from your road set to your maximum side slope will give you your side to side elevation, another farther up slope and the correct distance away will give you the stabilized up/down slope that you are looking for. Terrain is an awfully advanced feature for a BIM software so the suggestions given are excellent advice but it takes alot of pre-gained knowledge to use it for a difficult case study like what you are talking about. If you have not found the information by thoroughly familiarizing yourself with the Knowledge base, the help file, Chiefs many videos and articles about terrain and you understand the tools then the next step would be personal training either direct with chief or one of the many excellent trainers amongst our power users.

I used to have a similar setup a couple years back with that monster display (awesome but you could get a serious tan and fry an egg on that thing). Anyways there was a glitch for a while at that time with the OS X amd it had to do with the startup and plug in procedure. I believe if I remember right it was best to plug in before starting the computer and to use the side that was opposite the power side (even though you are supposed to be able to power from any of the usb c there is a certain side that does so faster and cooler. Usually left side I believe with the 2019 16”…. However when I had that issue I was also using a power adapter to charge my mb from the other power cable.

I haven’t done it in a while but seems like there was a specific order to it. Not at my computer at the moment.

You are using a camera view that the layer set has the floor surface turned off. When you turn it on that is when you see it…. That is how layers work, they turn on and off what you want to see. As far as the monolithic slab is concerned it is part of the foundation so is not a floor surface, again on a different layer. Quick tip. Learn to work with your Active Layer Display Options (commonly called ALDO) window open. Click on the item you are seeing and ALDO will show you all layers associated with that item.

Try using the transform replicate tool to resize them all at once. In example, you have 12” pier ftgs and you want 18” = group select them all and use the resize tool to add 50%…

Yup I get that on every trip to layout that I send. Have since beta test and did report and thought several others have as well. It doesn't take more than a couple seconds so hasn't been high on my list but yes it is an issue with my Mac system as well (both desktop and laptop.)