rgardner

Usually it is just a standard 24" depth cabinet that is held out away from the one wall for some reason. Use Cad lines at 24" and 30" to represent placement. Place your 45 degree cad line to the width you want then you have your placement points.

Kindly describe the issue better and including a Screenshot of the issue and .plan file is always helpful. Also since answers are always dependent on your software version and many times your hardware please fill out your signature with that information to help us help you.

Just to note that it only shows up once you have something selected.

I think the goal is to move it 1/2" farther away from the cabinets that are on the wall (i.e. currently at 41.5" and wants to move the island to 42" or something.)

I think you are going to need to communicate what you are seeing and looking for better. It looks like everyone is guessing of what area you are talking about. This is a simple cross section I pulled in Steve's plan with a dimension thrown in that shows a 110" Ceil Ht. Can you help us and describe a little better what area and where you are seeing the 97 1/8" ceil. ht. and if that is wrong what do you want it to build at??? The plan seems to be building the model exactly as it is currently programmed so working properly. Most likely you are looking for a different outcome.

Not positive if this is fully NKBA standards, as I was unable to find it on NKBA when I used it but this is what I did:

There is a "Hinge Top" door you can setup and you could split that to show a double door that is hinged but it would show the top hinge opening indicator.

It is an option for the standard window. I admit I had to look it up as I know them as a louvered window (also what chief calls them).

If you meant to attach a plan file (recommended) it is not here.

Depends on how detailed you want it. This has been what others have done. If you want a very rustic edge you will probably have to create a 3d molding for the fascia. One other possible way that comes to mind would be to use a terrain created in another file with a grass-like plant across the whole thing with rotating and variable sizing, turn it into a symbol and apply as a roof.

Pretty sure you can adjust that in the components (real name of the panel???) panel of the door dbx.

It looks like in particular he is looking at a wall that instead of changing the wall definition he changed the wall thickness which gives it a weird nomenclature on the end. As Eric is showing you can find them that way by clicking on the item or in the edit toolbar a find item in plan tool pops up. But to answer the OP. Open your schedule and select the type of walls you want to include. Many times glass walls, or different types of railings you don't necessarily want to include so on the 1st panel of the Schedule DBX you can choose which walls to include.

Just to add to Rene's great trick is that there are actual commercial door hardware items in a bonus catalog if you are looking for the pull handle and panic bars for the door.

Select the dormer and explode it first. Then change that errant roof plane fascia material. I wont get into other things that I see in the plan but I would advise you to be very careful with the MODE of the material painter tool. You have lots of conflicting materials/colors that you have mixed by using the blend colors with materials mode. This has conflicting materials across your defaults and it is resulting in some z fighting as well as why you couldn't just use the edit all roof planes tool to change that roof plane. The mixed colors was breaking the dormer material specifications.

Tried to download but it is locked for those without permissions.

This would be the type of issue that someone needs to examine the plan in order to see what is happening.

I probably would use this method as well. As an alternative but I think it would be more finicky would be to do regular walls with fixed windows. Corners are going to be a little tricky though which is why I think pony-walls would be much faster.

Glenn brings up some great points if the stairs are going to be against the building. From the picture it looks like they are stairs that are on the terrain and are more like a landscaping feature. Different ways to do it if that is the case but I personally would only be showing that on the site plan and not architectural or structural plans so would just manually set the heights of landings and steps without worrying about rooms.however if next to the house Glenn made some great reasons why I would consider doing it within a “room”.

Chief itself recommends it in every webinar or article I have seen regarding schedules and layouts. In fact they now have an automatic location in the PB for some. It allows for separate scaling and much easier to place it in various locations. it is not necessary however I am pretty sure the majority of not all the power users would agree that cad details are generally the more efficient place to use schedules. Many will also setup their templates to have their layouts auto-populated and setup so it’s oftentimes better so the schedules don’t encroach on each other and have their own location. For me personally it’s a nice way to have everything in its own place. Plus awfully nice to be able to hit f6 and zoom to the extents of the plan view.

Don’t need rooms but those type of stairs and landings do require lots of math and manually set stairs.

Try to use autoroofs.

Just an FYI the general recommendation is to place your schedules on a cad detail instead of on one of the floors.

Build it like you would in real life. Those are custom built shelf units on top and the base wold be several bases.

Still there where it always has been on the upper toolbar to the right if you are using the OOB toolbar. Try searching for the term "edit page information"

I think what Erick is saying is your description for some of us is a little hard to follow what you WANT or what it is supposed to look like. Maybe you can expound a little more or share pictures.