rgardner

Make up a section of about 4-6 wide in the pattern (just like shown above.) Make it from foundation to eave and just multiple copy across the face of the house. It will automatically cut for doors, fenestration etc., so you will not have to resize it. Then you can use the material painter tool to change all of color brown 2 to color blue 2 for example and all with that color would change,

Easiest way would be to make your terrain perimeter much larger than the lot size and put a fence on sides and back and road at front where you want to see it then dimension to those items so that you can move the items with the dimensions and visualize it better.

Could be various reasons why but if they still aren't showing (especially if you use different configurations across computers where you have multiple monitors.) Preferences>Reset Side Windows

The Color Chooser tool would be inside of a dbx for the line or fill color option. Not to be confused with the "Material Painter", "Material Eyedropper", or "Object Eyedropper" tools. What makes premiere so amazing is all of the tools that allow us to infinitely customize models and our workflow to find the most efficient and effective method for us. But yeah lots of tools that sound similar that do different jobs.

The "Rainbow" tool as many refer to it as is the tool Ed is showing in his snippet which as also shows is actually called the "Adjust Material Definition" Tool.

As Joe says it's impossible to troubleshoot without this information. Best guess would be a GPU driver issue though.

Make sure the display window did not get pulled down. Look for the small circles...

Based on what you mentioned above I am guessing you have a hidden wall at that point in which case there is an invisible wall that the molding is finishing to. You can see it goes just past the cabinet like it would to the end of a parallel wall to cover the transition. But as @SusanC suggested this is where you can use a molding line or polyline (BTW there is also a dedicated tool for this which will save you time over drawing a polyline/line and then converting it.)

Both Excellent suggestions and two techniques that will serve you well in learning this program. Just to mention a third and probably not the best way to do it in this particular use case but is also a very important technique to learning this program is the tab method. The KB and the Help files will help you more to learn how to use it but the basics is to start moving the item with your left mouse key and hit the tab button on your keyboard which will bring up a small box where you can tell it to move a certain distance and even angle from where it currently is.

The Saved Plan View has certain defaults that you can set wherever you want those items to be assigned to (look at the bottom default option for that SPV.)

Glad it helped.

There is a way to turn the room fill off by turning off the rooms layer, but it does cause other issues for macros and other items.

If say you had a cad detail populating different information for the plan and that was sent to layout you may want to reference the client/designer info. EX: You have a Cad detail with Contact information: Contact Information: Client: %client.name% %client.email% Designer: %designer.name% %designer.email% General Contractor: %client.zip_code% %client.country%

I would strongly suggest that you check out the hometalk forum (https://hometalk.chiefarchitect.com/) which is setup for users of your software. Although there are many similarities between the programs when it comes to errors or issues with the program itself it is much better to ask those that may be able to duplicate or have had that problem.

Kind of. Actually says x11-x12 But anyway without uploading the plan file it's hard to tell. But most likely a bloat heavy import.

I believe because the industry standard is to work with dimensions from the exterior of the house and if you resize your walls from say a 6" to a 4" stud wall it won't change the exterior it just pushes into the interior the 2" (sized about exterior layer.)

Much better to start your own thread as it will have unique issues. If you do please help keep the forum clean for future searchers by deleting your post. I am sure you will get lots of help if you do this courtesy.

Excellent advice. It also helps weed out the clients that you don't really want.

What's up with the random old posts getting downvoted?

Umm whats up with random old posts getting Downvoted ???

@joey_martin Probably has a little more local input but if you look at many designers they also provide remote services designing homes all over the country and even the world. As a general rule a Qualified, Experienced Designer who is proficient with their program charge an average of around $100-135 per hour or the eq. of that in piece work depending on the business model. Many designers will be on an average of 6 figures as long as they are diligent and know what they are doing.

That other thread is confusing because they are using the export to pdf instead of print to pdf feature.

Or use the suggested Print to pdf instead of export to pdf…

I will have to say I am not 100% clear on what your end result is. However I believe what you are trying to do is to get the cabinets to meet in the inside corner and fill in. 1.) You are placing base fillers so that is telling the cabinet to ignore the auto fillers. 2.) The front corners of the bases (the dashed line is the outline of the box) are not touching Couple of ideas to try would be to A. Remove the base fillers and turn the B9R into a B12R and the B12R to a B15R with removing the fillers and allow auto fillers. -Benefit of doing this is that it will auto attach and as long as you have enough space there should be enough room for the doors to open and swing (depending on your cabinet setup). -Downside of doing this is that you will have to manually count/input your fillers or place fillers afterwards making them the proper size you need. All depends upon your workflow and how you use your schedules and do ordering. other option B. Make your BF3 fillers BF4 fillers by selecting them and using the grip on the end towards the angle to make it wider on that end until it's in the same plane as the corner cabinet, then add a BF1 or BF2 on both sides of the corner cabinet so that the are coming together. C. Whatever you end up doing with the fillers you can always do a custom countertop by group selecting the cabinets and using the "Generate Custom Countertop" tool that will appear in the edit bar at the bottom. Hope this helps. @MarkMc probably can describe it and has way more input than me as he is our resident Cabinet GURU but this should get you pointed in the right direction. Best of luck on your studies.

Change the foundation wall type to a 2x2 framing layer with lattice exterior and turn it off of a foundation wall to remove the footing. For the Rim joist to properly show it as a double rim beam you will most likely want to do it manually (use the extend and trim tools and transform replicate object tools) but you could set your rim joist default to the thickness of the double rim and use a detail.