rgardner

The Saved Plan View has certain defaults that you can set wherever you want those items to be assigned to (look at the bottom default option for that SPV.)

Glad it helped.

There is a way to turn the room fill off by turning off the rooms layer, but it does cause other issues for macros and other items.

If say you had a cad detail populating different information for the plan and that was sent to layout you may want to reference the client/designer info. EX: You have a Cad detail with Contact information: Contact Information: Client: %client.name% %client.email% Designer: %designer.name% %designer.email% General Contractor: %client.zip_code% %client.country%

I would strongly suggest that you check out the hometalk forum (https://hometalk.chiefarchitect.com/) which is setup for users of your software. Although there are many similarities between the programs when it comes to errors or issues with the program itself it is much better to ask those that may be able to duplicate or have had that problem.

Kind of. Actually says x11-x12 But anyway without uploading the plan file it's hard to tell. But most likely a bloat heavy import.

I believe because the industry standard is to work with dimensions from the exterior of the house and if you resize your walls from say a 6" to a 4" stud wall it won't change the exterior it just pushes into the interior the 2" (sized about exterior layer.)

Much better to start your own thread as it will have unique issues. If you do please help keep the forum clean for future searchers by deleting your post. I am sure you will get lots of help if you do this courtesy.

Excellent advice. It also helps weed out the clients that you don't really want.

What's up with the random old posts getting downvoted?

Umm whats up with random old posts getting Downvoted ???

@joey_martin Probably has a little more local input but if you look at many designers they also provide remote services designing homes all over the country and even the world. As a general rule a Qualified, Experienced Designer who is proficient with their program charge an average of around $100-135 per hour or the eq. of that in piece work depending on the business model. Many designers will be on an average of 6 figures as long as they are diligent and know what they are doing.

That other thread is confusing because they are using the export to pdf instead of print to pdf feature.

Or use the suggested Print to pdf instead of export to pdf…

I will have to say I am not 100% clear on what your end result is. However I believe what you are trying to do is to get the cabinets to meet in the inside corner and fill in. 1.) You are placing base fillers so that is telling the cabinet to ignore the auto fillers. 2.) The front corners of the bases (the dashed line is the outline of the box) are not touching Couple of ideas to try would be to A. Remove the base fillers and turn the B9R into a B12R and the B12R to a B15R with removing the fillers and allow auto fillers. -Benefit of doing this is that it will auto attach and as long as you have enough space there should be enough room for the doors to open and swing (depending on your cabinet setup). -Downside of doing this is that you will have to manually count/input your fillers or place fillers afterwards making them the proper size you need. All depends upon your workflow and how you use your schedules and do ordering. other option B. Make your BF3 fillers BF4 fillers by selecting them and using the grip on the end towards the angle to make it wider on that end until it's in the same plane as the corner cabinet, then add a BF1 or BF2 on both sides of the corner cabinet so that the are coming together. C. Whatever you end up doing with the fillers you can always do a custom countertop by group selecting the cabinets and using the "Generate Custom Countertop" tool that will appear in the edit bar at the bottom. Hope this helps. @MarkMc probably can describe it and has way more input than me as he is our resident Cabinet GURU but this should get you pointed in the right direction. Best of luck on your studies.

Change the foundation wall type to a 2x2 framing layer with lattice exterior and turn it off of a foundation wall to remove the footing. For the Rim joist to properly show it as a double rim beam you will most likely want to do it manually (use the extend and trim tools and transform replicate object tools) but you could set your rim joist default to the thickness of the double rim and use a detail.

You need to build your foundation so it has a place to put the joists. BTW You changed your default to I-joist in framing but not on your level 1 which was already set as lumber. You also have your sheathing layer set as framing and not your i-joist/lumber selection.

Different slope as I just grabbed a random job and opened up the roof plane to demonstrate.

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you may want to consider the little upgrade cost and go with the 14" with m1pro... Unless you are using it as a display only. 13" is slightly small for form factor on it's own. 14" is pushing it but more doable. Plus have heard some big upgrades from m1 to m1pro.

I am probably wrong on this but cant you do: %surface_area.round(1)% or %surface_area.round(0)%

Thanks for the clarification (was confused because your signature shows x12 only). Very interested in what is happening this year. my mac pro 6.1 desktop still works well but it is probably this coming year for an upgrade for the desktop. Still hoping they come out with the rumored mac pro desktop in small form factor that the rumors are talking about. Something in between the mac mini and the mac pro main product... Otherwise it might be an Imac pro.

Just a heads up that you can mark the material region to remove finish layer or leave it in the dbx for the region. In this case I was using it to cut the brick layer to place your panel flush on the sheathing layer or on top of the house wrap layer.

Looks like you are running x12 and not x13?

Really seems like you are not seeing the power of the cabinet along with the material Regino technique. No patching in the inside. If you want the sill add a molding on the cabinet as well. If you want more of a 3D look make the cabinet deeper and remove the doors set your stiles and rails exactly how you want them and place on top of a wall material region that will cut the brick away. Once you have the style of pattern you want it can be done in probably 2-5 minutes for the first one copied and pasted around as needed very quickly.