javatom

I did not have time to look closely but I did notice something on the plan. You have the roof planes set to degrees of pitch instead of the "in:12" setting" Open the roof plans and change those settings. The 11.25 pitch they are talking about will make sense then. Your plan shows it in the other setting which would be the same as a 2 3/8:12.

It could be a sill plate.

You have the bottom window set at 96" to the top. You have the upper windows set at 94" to the bottom. They are trying to overlap. Open upper window dbx and set the bottom to 97" and the shutters will appear.

Many ways. One quick one is to draw walls, build roof then manually lower it to your desired height. You will also want to define the room as "no flat ceiling".

Use 2 roof plans. One uphill from the wall and the other one downhill from the wall. Have NO ROOF where the wall is located.

You might have to create them. Draw cad lines where you want them. Block the lines to together and make a cad block. Click on the window and look at the bottom of the page for an icon that looks like the letter E. This is the "load muntins" button. It will turn the cad lines into muntins for that window.

I did not open the plan but from what you are describing I would make the dormer area a room on floor 1 with a ceiling height set high enough that there is only one wall involved and not a wall from each floor.

Let Chief create automatic roof framing. Open the original roof plane. This would be the one UNDER the one you have built over the top. Open the dbx and check "retain roof framing". Drag the original roof plane up to where the intersecting point is with the new roof. That will make the new roof regenerate the framing while keeping the old framing in tact.

Your Back clipped Cross Section is probably not set deep enough to capture it.

You could try using screen as the material for the top.

using a roof plane would be used where you need to notch part of it away like a door or window.

You can also use a roof plane.

I would strongly recommend against letting a client "manipulate" your floor plan. In my experience, they will mess up the plan and it will take you hours to figure out everything they did wrong. They will think they help with the process. In reality, they may have ruined the model. Let them know that they will be working on a work copy of the plan and that you will have to repeat what they did no the real plan. I do a lot of work for other designers fixing the plans that got messed up. You can't even imagine the dumb stuff that can be done to a model by the uninformed.

While in a perspective view, click on the adjust material definition button (it looks like a rainbow). Rotate the pattern and texture 90 degree.

The labels can be re-positioned so it might be a label for a different room.

One of your wall selections in the pull down menu will be "straight foundation walls". Click on it and draw them in. Make sure they are aligned with the walls of your "stoop".

Check your room type definitions for the shop.

Delete the wall. The wall below it can build up to that level. Place upper windows on lower wall. You might have to tell the room to have no ceiling and then place one manually where you want it.

Do a search under "hometech remodeling and renovation cost estimator 2019". It is a good starting point for cost estimates.

That library has a down side. The face count is through the roof for what you get out of it. It is not worth it for what it does to your file size. It might be helpful if you are asked to do shop drawings for a custom made version of cable rails though.

I might have put the money into better window and door trim instead of that fascia.

Some of you should really start looking at the date of the original post before responding.

FYI. Your stair will not work in that space. You need a bigger stair opening to reach the next level.

Digital submissions are quite common now. The only downside is that you have to be aware of your file size getting to big. Some cities have limitations on the size it can load.

You can also cover it with a molding. In the real world, this would have some sort of trim board covering the edge. The molding would accomplish that look. The down side is that it would have to be moved if you moved the wall above it.