javatom

I did not open the plan but from what you are describing I would make the dormer area a room on floor 1 with a ceiling height set high enough that there is only one wall involved and not a wall from each floor.

Let Chief create automatic roof framing. Open the original roof plane. This would be the one UNDER the one you have built over the top. Open the dbx and check "retain roof framing". Drag the original roof plane up to where the intersecting point is with the new roof. That will make the new roof regenerate the framing while keeping the old framing in tact.

Your Back clipped Cross Section is probably not set deep enough to capture it.

You could try using screen as the material for the top.

using a roof plane would be used where you need to notch part of it away like a door or window.

You can also use a roof plane.

I would strongly recommend against letting a client "manipulate" your floor plan. In my experience, they will mess up the plan and it will take you hours to figure out everything they did wrong. They will think they help with the process. In reality, they may have ruined the model. Let them know that they will be working on a work copy of the plan and that you will have to repeat what they did no the real plan. I do a lot of work for other designers fixing the plans that got messed up. You can't even imagine the dumb stuff that can be done to a model by the uninformed.

While in a perspective view, click on the adjust material definition button (it looks like a rainbow). Rotate the pattern and texture 90 degree.

The labels can be re-positioned so it might be a label for a different room.

One of your wall selections in the pull down menu will be "straight foundation walls". Click on it and draw them in. Make sure they are aligned with the walls of your "stoop".

Check your room type definitions for the shop.

Delete the wall. The wall below it can build up to that level. Place upper windows on lower wall. You might have to tell the room to have no ceiling and then place one manually where you want it.

Do a search under "hometech remodeling and renovation cost estimator 2019". It is a good starting point for cost estimates.

That library has a down side. The face count is through the roof for what you get out of it. It is not worth it for what it does to your file size. It might be helpful if you are asked to do shop drawings for a custom made version of cable rails though.

I might have put the money into better window and door trim instead of that fascia.

Some of you should really start looking at the date of the original post before responding.

FYI. Your stair will not work in that space. You need a bigger stair opening to reach the next level.

Digital submissions are quite common now. The only downside is that you have to be aware of your file size getting to big. Some cities have limitations on the size it can load.

You can also cover it with a molding. In the real world, this would have some sort of trim board covering the edge. The molding would accomplish that look. The down side is that it would have to be moved if you moved the wall above it.

The users here generally call that the "save as method". It can be a good way to do a project if you have it set up right.

I'm seeing less requests for stone wainscotting. I think people are bored with it.

You can also shut off the automatic rebuild of attic walls in the general wall defaults.

Open the dbx for the porch and tell it to have a flat ceiling. Set the ceiling height to the level that you want the gable end wall to build down to. You could also place an attic wall manually and re-shape it to the size you want in elevation view. The part you circled needs to have no porch roof then just drag the attic call to the left.

The plan is not sent as a live view. Live view is for 3D images and elevations.

You might try using a landing that is the width of one tread. You can shape a landing.