javatom

Just delete the walls of the other building.

You could make one out of polyline solids. This one took about 5 min.

Your kidding, right?

It can be done but it is tricky. This is a picture of one I did.

Make sure they are not set to "absolute" instead of "from finished floor". It might be there but in the basement.

I would check with a truss manufacturer to see if they can even build this.

You may need to post the plan for a better answer. I will take a shot at a solution though. Pull that roof plane toward the front by an inch and it might generate what you are looking for.

Try the default settings under the plan heading. Upper part of that dbx check "ignore casing for opening size".

Thanks Chopsaw. She has already contacted me.

I meant to put this in tips and techniques.

Maximize the speed of chief with some common sense. I do a lot of work for other designers and I see quite an array of things come across my desk. Some things just should not be on a plan if speed is a concern. Sometimes the culprits are required because of the clients needs or a desire to have a really pretty picture of what a project will look like. My comments are for people creating building plans for permit submission and actual use in the field to build a house. I have listed what I call the toaster and blender effects of a plan. This is what to avoid. 1. The small and meaningless objects (toaster, blender, pictures on the wall, carpets, curtains, coat hooks). The list goes on and on but I think you get the idea. 2. Items with big face counts for no reason. I had a client once send me a plan file with a toilet that had a face count of 32,000 (They are usually around 54). 3. Unnecessary items. Things like plants, overly complex terrains, furniture etc. They may look interesting in a picture but the crew building the house does not need to see them. 4. Pictures. If you must use a picture (try not to), use a jpeg. PDF files imported into a plan can bring your system to a stand still. There are many more examples but hopefully, you get the idea. I recently used a manufacturer download of cable rails. My system was noticeably impacted. I replaced it with the cable from CA and the problem went away. As I stated before - This information is for people that need to move quick to complete plans. If your focus is not in that direction then keep on importing these things into your plan. It will work fine, just slightly slower. I hope this is information is helpful.

Maybe you changed the name of the file plan.

You can also set the post placement at a high number, like 1000', so it will not generate any posts or columns. Then place columns wherever you want.

Look at you image in 3d camera. Click on the material definition button (it looks like a rainbow). Then click on the tile. That will open a dbx with the parameters of the material. The fifth item down the list is is "offset and angle" You can change it there.

You may have turned them off. There is a toggle button that does that.

So, no more hot air coming out of Berkeley?

It looks like a manual one. You might have to unlock the roof trim layer and drag it over manually.

You enter it into the structure DBX.

I would use polyline solids for those planters.

Try using another roof plane for the soffit. Make it thin so it does not cut into the actual roof. The soffit would be the ceiling of the roof plane.

R319 limits contact of non pressure treated with concrete. The 1" space just insures that nothing contacts. You could also line any potential contact point with felt paper an place it tighter. The real world is sloppy. A basement wall this is slightly out of plumb and a new interior wall that bends and bows can eliminate the 1" space in a hurry. It's probably not usually a problem. It could become important if it is a tight design on stair, bath or door spacing.

Chief will tell you it can not be done. There are ways to do a work around. This one used dozens of roof planes. Each one had a slightly different pitch and angle that followed the fascia. The fascia was a 3d molding set to the wall tops. In the real world, this would be really tough to build. This one was an existing structure so I had no choice.

Open the wall dbx of the porch. Third item from the top "roof" . Click on "auto roof return".

Don't forget to add 1" space from concrete to framed wall. Without that space, it may not meet code.

Perhaps you should get a rough price from a builder for your castle before you sink any more cost into the plan.