javatom

If you move the wall on the left side of the stair over 3" (on both levels), the roof will be there.

I get varied results with dbx changes that should not be changing the roof planes. (raise off plate for instance).

Maybe I'm missing something. Would you just end up with every plan file having the same name for every client?

Man that is funny.

If you want to use Eric's idea, you find the controls under the "open symbol" icon. You would then rotate around the X axis with a negative number.

I may not be understanding the plan view sets correctly. But I can see one advantage to anno sets as king. If you have a layer called "extra items" (self explanatory), and you want to remove those items from view, you simply turn off that layer in the layer set that feeds every instance of a plan view (floors one, two and three). With plan view sets, you would have to alter three different things to accomplish the same task.

If you need total control over the rails, stiles, and slats, you can use a thin roof plane with roof openings placed where desired.

IMO this is the only way to use the program. The sets that CA ships with are less than useless.

You may need to set all your rooms to have no ceiling and then manually add ceiling planes for the variations.

You can always use a Psolid instead of a soffit.

Interior design, truss manufacturing, sips suppliers, log home suppliers, MEP for commercial, structural engineers and surveys, concept plans for developers and probably a lot more than this short list.

I think the point is that the forum would quickly become unusable if everyone that buys CA uses the forum as their FIRST point of inquiry before doing some due diligence on their own.

Output the elevation to layout as a plot line.

It's a little more complicated than "printing out blueprints".

I hate to be the one to tell you this but that has a LONG way to go before it would be considered a buildable plan.

For accurate framing, you would want to go with using a material region.

The wall of the dormer appears to be too short to accommodate the window.

Set your floor to SWT (stem wall top) to zero.

If you have already built the foundation and you are trying to adjust it, you can still accomplish what you are looking for. Set the floor level of the garage and the stem wall top to the same level. See attached pic.

It is nice for a quick reference. It is not very accurate. I just checked it on a lot I know to be perfectly flat and it showed varied elevations of 7'. I checked another one with a lot of slope that had a professional topo survey done. The elevation was roughly accurate but the lines were way off. I would be cautious of planing a stepped foundation based on this data. It is fun to play with though.

Look at it in elevation and click on the footings (not the wall). Once you have it highlighted, grab the handle of the vert. footing and drag it over to the end of the other one and it will disappear.

Making the frame inset a negative number appears to push the window outside the wall.

I believe he wants 2x10 walls. I'm pretty sure that Erics system will work if it is a 2x4 wall with other layers that pad it out to 10" thick.

Mull them together and change the mulled depth. See attached picture.

Side note - I would be careful with that sideway stud idea on the dormers. That may not have enough R-value to get through an inspection.