javatom

The title of this thread is perfect.

It took rene rabbit (one of the best users on this forum) more than 11 minutes to explain the new library system. I would not call this browser an improvement. It is ludicrously complicated for no REAL reason IMHO.

Under the build structure tab there will be an option to mark the location of a bearing wall. The joist will then break at that point into 2 shorter lengths. You might have to tell the defaults to NOT align the joists at the break point.

Add a floor level above the roof and draw a rail wall to align with the exterior walls below. If the guard rail is intended to be solid, set the rail wall to a solid wall and pull the roof inside the rail instead of outside. It will then look like a parapet wall.

A room defined as DECK does not have a ceiling at all. If the upper deck is intended to be a water proof covering such as DURADEK, it would not be defined as DECK. Give the rooms definitions of what you are calling decks another choice. You could define them as LIVING ROOM. You could then specify the room specifications to show what you want. You could set the floor finish material to the water proof product. The same goes for the ceiling material specification. Set the specifications to have a ceiling then change the material to what ever you want.

You could draw a solid fence where the property line is located. Make that layer show up in the layers for elevation.

IRC code will require a crawl space of 18". I don't think you have that much.

Your roof plane is supposed to be rafters. You might have the specifications set for trusses (no birds mouth). There may be other things going on as well.

There is really no reason to have this level of realism for something like this. Your plan file size will get enormous and your system will slow to a crawl.

I believe the top of plate is set from the room ceiling defaults not the roof plane specification.

It is because you have an isolated room within another room. Try adding an invisible wall from the bathroom to the wall on the left. This will fix your situation.

Set the glass in the curve to "NO MATERIAL". Then you can use an extruded polyline of glass in it's place.

Never change the name of the plan or layout files. You save the most recently worked on version of these files in a new folder. In the folder name, you add the date and initials of who last work on it. Something like this SMITH PROJECT 011223 RM.

Your existing footings might not be wide enough for a second story. If you have the original plans, it might show what is there.

Sometimes the problem can be hard to find. There was a download available for a more realistic looking grass. I used it on a plan and it made the file size almost unusable. You could start deleting groups of items and keep track of file size. You will eventually find the problem item or items.

Delete the furniture. Do you really need to show a TV hanging on the wall. theater chairs - face count 6620 pool table - face count 7998 hot tub - face count 8168 fire pit - face count 9511 I think you get the idea.

That looks like a very long span for the ceiling joists (that you now want to use as floor joists). You should have an engineer look at it.

use a pony wall.

Set your plan up to be at floor elevation of zero. There is rarely an exception to this. Build the terrain based on the elevations data and then move the entire elevation to where it should be. Pretend that this survey showed a lot in the mountains and the elevation is 5000' You would not change your floor plan the have a floor level of 5000'. The elevation data from the survey is just to get the slope right.

This picture shows what you might have going on. The steep sloped portion of the mansard is just a steep overhang that is added to a normal 2nd story roof. The steep part basically covers the wall that is supporting the shallower pitched portion of the roof system. I placed a skylight in it to show how it might work.

You could use skylights. It would not look right in section views but the elevation would look pretty close.

It is called "Stairs & Ramps, details".

The ever present decision of including the stairwell or not in the square footage. I usually include it. It is a great tool to use when you are trying to show less total square footage to a building department. I include it to show clients a more realistic statistic of what they are about to build.

Stairs to a basement often take more space on the main level. If the stair is on an outside wall, the basement wall might be an 8" concrete stem wall. It might also have a 2x4 framed wall for the insulation. In these types of situations, it is best to account for the impact of the offset right from the beginning. Don't get to happy with a stair placement that fits into the main level outside wall without making it wide enough to also work in the basement.

In the real world, it is not possible. The problem comes up when part of the ceiling is flat and part of it is vaulted. It can not be right in both instances.