javatom

You enter it into the structure DBX.

I would use polyline solids for those planters.

Try using another roof plane for the soffit. Make it thin so it does not cut into the actual roof. The soffit would be the ceiling of the roof plane.

R319 limits contact of non pressure treated with concrete. The 1" space just insures that nothing contacts. You could also line any potential contact point with felt paper an place it tighter. The real world is sloppy. A basement wall this is slightly out of plumb and a new interior wall that bends and bows can eliminate the 1" space in a hurry. It's probably not usually a problem. It could become important if it is a tight design on stair, bath or door spacing.

Chief will tell you it can not be done. There are ways to do a work around. This one used dozens of roof planes. Each one had a slightly different pitch and angle that followed the fascia. The fascia was a 3d molding set to the wall tops. In the real world, this would be really tough to build. This one was an existing structure so I had no choice.

Open the wall dbx of the porch. Third item from the top "roof" . Click on "auto roof return".

Don't forget to add 1" space from concrete to framed wall. Without that space, it may not meet code.

Perhaps you should get a rough price from a builder for your castle before you sink any more cost into the plan.

The deck could be stamped concrete. The supports are big and it is an expensive way to make a deck. On the other hand, it is not flammable and will need little maintenance.

It would not be a good structure. Lets hope chief NEVER allows this.

Open the roof DBX. Go to "options". Change your boxed eaves from default to 48" and it will fill in the missing area.

Place it on the wall behind. Open the dbx for the light and adjust the "distance from wall to the depth of your cabinet.

You used 2x4 ext. walls. Most areas will require 2x6 (depending on where your located.

Technical illustration, I would guess.

Double check any objects you have created like brackets or trim. They don't always flip properly.

I will have to disagree with you about this. The forum is for sharing new discoveries, and for seeing if the same reaction exists on other users system. It IS NOT a replacement for something as easy as this to find in the help menu. You really barked up the wrong tree in criticizing Solver. He often answers the same dumb questions over and over while the rest of us just ignore those trivial items.

Is this really the roof design you want to go with?

I would add a note to the plan that all fixtures require minimum of 80" ceiling height. You can design it all to perfection but one confused carpenter can quickly make the whole idea non code compliant.

Try "edit wall intersections" tool. You may be able to adjust it.

Save your wall definitions and import them into the plan you are working on. You can then change any of the new plans walls into one of your wall types.

Create a fireplace wall with brick as the outside layer. Go to an elevation view, create a material region on the wall and set it to "cut finish layer of parent object".

Rooms are defined by normal walls. If you are using an attic wall you could open the walls DBX and check the box for telling it to "define room".

Align the walls of both floors and define the room as "open below".

Make sure you have checked "automatically regenerate deck framing".

You can group select items and use the transform/replicate tool to move it in the Z axis to the correct position for the new floor.