javatom

Make sure the layer it is assigned to is turned ON if you want to see it.

A size 6 font placed in plan and sent to layout will be a different size than if it is placed directly into the layout because the plan is sent to the layout in 1/4" scale (or whatever you chose.

I might be interpreting your question wrong but I think the simplest way to do this is opening the terrain DBX and setting the terrain surface smoothing to "linear".

It is not a great use of time to design trusses and could lead to some issues with a plans examiner. The manufacturer does their own truss designs. If the chief version is different, they could flag that for revision of the drawings. Perry's use of it is the only legitimate use for doing it in chief that I can think of.

If you plan to use insulation in the floor joists, you might want to use 11 7/8" joists so the insulation will fit.

You may be using "live update on demand". Just re-fresh the image and will improve the quality of what you see in the layout.

I don't think I would even waste their time by asking them to price it out. It would never see the light of day.

I think in the real world, you would use a scissor truss and apply plywood with blocking to the bottom chord in the shape of the arch. I would think that a truss with a curved bottom chord would be pretty expensive.

It would be against their best interest to say "this plan looks fine as it is" You will add the items they requested and the next time, they will request different changes.

Did you try the Home Designer Pro forum?

Walls don't automatically have caps. You could place a tall rail wall with a cap or put a psolid on top of what you have.

It is giving you that error message because you already have a hole there for the dormer. You can always turn off the flat ceiling of the room below and place a ceiling plan manually. Eric is right on about getting rid of the second floor.

The extra floor may not have been a good idea but you are almost there on the dormer. Move the roof plan to the same level as the dormer so you can fix it. (you can move it back later if you want). Pull the dormer roof plan back until it is inside of the opening in the roof. Use the snap tool to seam the opening and the roof plan to each other. Do this on both sides of each dormer. Now delete the back wall of the dormer. It is forming a room that you do not want. That should do it.

It sounds like you do not have ceiling checked in the structure dbx. That will still work though. The roof tools have an icon specifically for placing a ceiling plane manually.

Does the schedule show that many doors or is it just a doubling of the label and not a doubling of the actual door?

I think it is in New Jersey.

I have learned to avoid working with people that think something only takes an hour.

That is one of the most clever work arounds I have seen in a while. Good job.

Was able to load the plan. The closest I could get was to uncheck that wall as a rail and manually add the cap and wall terminator.

I was unable to open your plan but you might try the "edit wall layer intersection" tool. You might be able to coax into looking better.

I occasionally have a pdf file get unusually big. I learned a trick for this. Close Chief and re=open it and open your layout again. Print to pdf again. The process of re-launching it sometimes makes the file size about 30 percent smaller.

I did not load your plan but I have seen this before. It can happen if the baseline of the roof is too low relative to the ceiling of the room under it. The attic wall gets confused.

Make a new layer SET. Define all the layers of this new layer set to be black or gray. Put the new notes on a new layer that is in color. This will work if your exiting plan, objects etc. are set to default. When everything is set to default, it looks to the layers sets definition. You may have to manually change a few stragglers.

Brace walls are for keeping the walls from moving. They don't have to be a bearing point for the trusses. We span those distances all the time without a third bearing point. The truss designers have their own set of instructions for keeping their roof system from moving. Their "brace walls" are usually a kicker 2x from the top of the gable ends to the bottom chord at about a 45 degree angle. They also usually call out for lateral bracing in the form of 2x "rat runs" nailed at certain points along the webbing. The only time I have seen the two world mingle is in the case of a really high energy heel. Some building departments want blocking between the trusses at the exterior wall with the sheathing running up almost to the top of the top chord. The brace wall requirements are for wall support not truss support.

I use H2.5. for exterior walls. Interior walls are not attached to the truss. This can compromise the structural integrity of the bottom chord. The item Larry linked to is almost the only simple way to do it.