javatom

Select the roof planes and move them all in the Z axis.

Start with this training video. https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-00789/using-copy-and-paste-special-tools-to-create-a-new-material.html

I usually set the automatic functions to frame the deck but not the beams and posts. I set those manually where I want them.

Turn off the ridge caps of the turret and it will look better.

I have not seen 4/8" displayed but you can find all those settings under default - dimensions.

That wrap around stair is one of the more inconsistent features of CA. It works sometimes and then will just stop working. ANY change will make it disconnect again.

Perry may have it right. I have also noticed that OOB materials can show differently in 3D depending on it being a new view generated in X10 or an old plan (and view) that was started on X9.

I sometimes see layers that are locked for no logical reason. Make sure they are unlocked if you want to alter the clients plan.

Make sure the layer it is assigned to is turned ON if you want to see it.

A size 6 font placed in plan and sent to layout will be a different size than if it is placed directly into the layout because the plan is sent to the layout in 1/4" scale (or whatever you chose.

I might be interpreting your question wrong but I think the simplest way to do this is opening the terrain DBX and setting the terrain surface smoothing to "linear".

It is not a great use of time to design trusses and could lead to some issues with a plans examiner. The manufacturer does their own truss designs. If the chief version is different, they could flag that for revision of the drawings. Perry's use of it is the only legitimate use for doing it in chief that I can think of.

If you plan to use insulation in the floor joists, you might want to use 11 7/8" joists so the insulation will fit.

You may be using "live update on demand". Just re-fresh the image and will improve the quality of what you see in the layout.

I don't think I would even waste their time by asking them to price it out. It would never see the light of day.

I think in the real world, you would use a scissor truss and apply plywood with blocking to the bottom chord in the shape of the arch. I would think that a truss with a curved bottom chord would be pretty expensive.

It would be against their best interest to say "this plan looks fine as it is" You will add the items they requested and the next time, they will request different changes.

Did you try the Home Designer Pro forum?

Walls don't automatically have caps. You could place a tall rail wall with a cap or put a psolid on top of what you have.

It is giving you that error message because you already have a hole there for the dormer. You can always turn off the flat ceiling of the room below and place a ceiling plan manually. Eric is right on about getting rid of the second floor.

The extra floor may not have been a good idea but you are almost there on the dormer. Move the roof plan to the same level as the dormer so you can fix it. (you can move it back later if you want). Pull the dormer roof plan back until it is inside of the opening in the roof. Use the snap tool to seam the opening and the roof plan to each other. Do this on both sides of each dormer. Now delete the back wall of the dormer. It is forming a room that you do not want. That should do it.

It sounds like you do not have ceiling checked in the structure dbx. That will still work though. The roof tools have an icon specifically for placing a ceiling plane manually.

Does the schedule show that many doors or is it just a doubling of the label and not a doubling of the actual door?

I think it is in New Jersey.

I have learned to avoid working with people that think something only takes an hour.