javatom

Make sure the floor below has the exact same curve and is aligned. If it is off even a little, it can cause odd problems.

Could you raise the door off the floor?

Nice pictures. The windows and doors appear too tall to allow for a header. Maybe they plan on building it in at the rim joist level.

Your wall layers may be reversing. If so, highlight those walls and click on the reverse layers tool.

Trouble shootings greatest tool. Turn it off, turn it back on.

Extruded P solid. Adding the dentil trim would be a little harder.

Manually create a roof plane with structure defined by thickness of sheathing. Place posts, beams and rafters as required. You would not be doing an automatic roof here. Your room definition should have roof and ceiling shut off. There are other ways of doing this, but this method will give you the greatest degree of control.

It would be nice if there was an additional type of roof framing that would create an overframe condition just like it would be built in the real world. Trusses continue on with a repeat of the previous ones, it just has more framing above it where the overlapping roof plane happens.

You could do all the editing to create one box with mutilple bumps on the top. Once you have a single shape, then do the subtraction (you are only subtracting once).

Check your wall definitions and make sure they are the same main layer thickness. It shouldn't matter but I have seen it do odd things if they are not the same.

It is probably better to copy the file and rename it. Doing a save as while the plan and layout files are active can get you in trouble in a hurry.

Remember that an auto detailed section view does not update. It may be right but you are looking at previously generated auto fill patterns.

On a complex roof, it is often faster to do it all manually.

You might have better luck if you include trainers that do it remotely via goto meeting and the like.

I do not think it is balloon framed. It has a bowed area that does not continue to the main roof. The roof return (the lower roof plane) stops it. That means there would be a header over the opening to the bowed out area. You have this on your plans level 2. The ceiling may be the same level as the rest of the floor or it may lower a bit. If it is lower, you can place an invisible wall coming straight across and make the bump out a separate room with a lower ceiling.

Sometimes you need to add a light source near something you want to highlight.

you can create a cad box around each one with a macro that shows sq. footage of each box. There may be other ways as well but that one is pretty fast.

A good tip to speed up your productivity. If you hold down the control button while operating the mouse wheel, it takes really big jumps. It means less wheeling in and out.

That goes to show you the importance of communication. I interpreted it more like the dormer on this house. Now I'm not sure what the op wants.

Without looking at the plan, I would suggest opening the dbx for the rooms in question and go to structure and turn OFF the ceiling.

I think what you are going for will require the curved part of the roof to be set to a steeper pitch. Try 12 then play with the radius until it gives you the look you are going for.

I make the "deliverables" pdf files. I create them with two sets of plans. One has the model. The other one has the details. If a client pays more for the model they get the plan file of the model. They NEVER get the details plan. The items on that plan have taken a lot of experience to create. I normally charge 500 to 800 even for a blank plan. What they are getting is my anno sets, layer sets, setups etc. A homeowner does not care but I have had new designers tell me that it has put them miles ahead of the game. I have also had client fly to my location (Coeur d'Alene) for one on one training. They always say the the best thing they got out of it was the blank plan which they use as their template. My point on this is to be careful who you give a plan file to and be sure of how they intend to use it.

I sent pm Tom Pehlke Design Build Group 208 651-2520 tom@idahodesignbuildgroup.com

You may already know this but "trimming" a molding to stop at a window is achieved by placing break points on both sides, clicking on the line at the window and telling the DBX "no molding on selected edge". The software will do this for you if you click on the perimeter and tab until you get a highlight around the the whole building. You then convert that to a molding polyline.

You can not put crown molding on a vaulted ceiling (in the real world). Someone will be along shortly to argue that point but trust me, don't try it. The "tricks" to do it, all look awful.