javatom

Remember that an auto detailed section view does not update. It may be right but you are looking at previously generated auto fill patterns.

On a complex roof, it is often faster to do it all manually.

You might have better luck if you include trainers that do it remotely via goto meeting and the like.

I do not think it is balloon framed. It has a bowed area that does not continue to the main roof. The roof return (the lower roof plane) stops it. That means there would be a header over the opening to the bowed out area. You have this on your plans level 2. The ceiling may be the same level as the rest of the floor or it may lower a bit. If it is lower, you can place an invisible wall coming straight across and make the bump out a separate room with a lower ceiling.

Sometimes you need to add a light source near something you want to highlight.

you can create a cad box around each one with a macro that shows sq. footage of each box. There may be other ways as well but that one is pretty fast.

A good tip to speed up your productivity. If you hold down the control button while operating the mouse wheel, it takes really big jumps. It means less wheeling in and out.

That goes to show you the importance of communication. I interpreted it more like the dormer on this house. Now I'm not sure what the op wants.

Without looking at the plan, I would suggest opening the dbx for the rooms in question and go to structure and turn OFF the ceiling.

I think what you are going for will require the curved part of the roof to be set to a steeper pitch. Try 12 then play with the radius until it gives you the look you are going for.

I make the "deliverables" pdf files. I create them with two sets of plans. One has the model. The other one has the details. If a client pays more for the model they get the plan file of the model. They NEVER get the details plan. The items on that plan have taken a lot of experience to create. I normally charge 500 to 800 even for a blank plan. What they are getting is my anno sets, layer sets, setups etc. A homeowner does not care but I have had new designers tell me that it has put them miles ahead of the game. I have also had client fly to my location (Coeur d'Alene) for one on one training. They always say the the best thing they got out of it was the blank plan which they use as their template. My point on this is to be careful who you give a plan file to and be sure of how they intend to use it.

I sent pm Tom Pehlke Design Build Group 208 651-2520 tom@idahodesignbuildgroup.com

You may already know this but "trimming" a molding to stop at a window is achieved by placing break points on both sides, clicking on the line at the window and telling the DBX "no molding on selected edge". The software will do this for you if you click on the perimeter and tab until you get a highlight around the the whole building. You then convert that to a molding polyline.

You can not put crown molding on a vaulted ceiling (in the real world). Someone will be along shortly to argue that point but trust me, don't try it. The "tricks" to do it, all look awful.

Molding is the way to go. You can also place multiple moldings on one molding line. Just click on "add new". in the dbx of the molding line.

The level you placed your door into has a ceiling of 3 3/8". You need to straighten this all out structurally for it to work properly.

The walls you are seeing in perspective view are attic walls.

I see 5 windows. What is it that you are missing

Chief already uses some of these drafting tables. They use them for the builder shows for example.

If you follow the steps I used. This is what you will see.

Open the room dbx - structure - floor planks, joists (L) - layer 2 - Set the material to fir framing. Your floor framing will display on the floor below.

This may not be the answer to what you want it to do but it might get you started. I use this as a quick way to display what is going on in the room I place this macro. You might be able to use some parts of it.

You can set different ceiling heights in different rooms. Set the area inside the knee wall at 8' and the attic area at 3".

I do most of mine manually. But for auto roof to have a shot at this, you would have to make sure it has not birds mouth cut.

The last step of your stair appears to cause a choke point of clearance to walk past it.