javatom

You can not put crown molding on a vaulted ceiling (in the real world). Someone will be along shortly to argue that point but trust me, don't try it. The "tricks" to do it, all look awful.

Molding is the way to go. You can also place multiple moldings on one molding line. Just click on "add new". in the dbx of the molding line.

The level you placed your door into has a ceiling of 3 3/8". You need to straighten this all out structurally for it to work properly.

The walls you are seeing in perspective view are attic walls.

I see 5 windows. What is it that you are missing

Chief already uses some of these drafting tables. They use them for the builder shows for example.

If you follow the steps I used. This is what you will see.

Open the room dbx - structure - floor planks, joists (L) - layer 2 - Set the material to fir framing. Your floor framing will display on the floor below.

This may not be the answer to what you want it to do but it might get you started. I use this as a quick way to display what is going on in the room I place this macro. You might be able to use some parts of it.

You can set different ceiling heights in different rooms. Set the area inside the knee wall at 8' and the attic area at 3".

I do most of mine manually. But for auto roof to have a shot at this, you would have to make sure it has not birds mouth cut.

The last step of your stair appears to cause a choke point of clearance to walk past it.

check the wall definitions main layers. Confirm a match to the outer layer based on dimensions. In other words - use main layer for alignment but then match the thickness of the outer layers so they align also.

displaying the reference set may show what you want. Send it to layout utilizing this function, it will show both levels.

That's a heck of a first post.

I would probably use a pony wall with an arched doorway with the casing turned off.

Yes, it is not something that would even be allowed today. I looks great but from a structural standpoint, it did not work. It started to fail shortly after construction and got worse every year. The repair work was quite an undertaking. If it was any other house, it would have been condemned and torn down.

Make all your objects set to an elevation setting above finished floor instead of absolute. That way it will place all those objects where they belong relative to the added floor.

I was at Falling Water House once while repair work was under way. It was fun to see the structure exposed and how it was put together.

I did not say he never received any education. You did in fact support exactly what I said. HE HAD NO COLLEGE DEGREE AND NEVER OFFICIALLY BECAME A LICENSED ARCHITECT. It is just a bit of trivia. You seem to be trying to read a lot into this.

An interesting side note - Frank Lloyd Wright was not an architect. In fact, he did not graduate from college or even high school. Pretty good work for a "draftsman".

You can check your theory by turning the gutter layer off in your camera view to see if it goes away.

The slack for bad subs should not be taken up by designers. Specifying the exact location of every anchor bolt is a waste of time. If one of my cad guys did this on a plan, I would probably fire him or risk having that builder never use us again. In the real world, plans are expected to be created in an efficient manner. I have often gained new clients because the former designer was putting TOO MUCH detail on the plan or as the builder calls it "CRAP". That bad sub crew you speak of is probably incapable of reading any plan, much less one that specifies every bolt.

Just place the text on a layer that is used for the view you want on the layout. For instance, floor framing has it's own layer. Put the type you want to show up for that view on just that layer. It will not show up on plan view because you would not have floor framing layer turned on for plan view.

Use different layer sets.