javatom

Field verification is the only way to go on this. Expecting accuracy of what is behind the drywall is an unrealistic expectation. A good understanding of how buildings are normally put together, is usually very accurate. I'm not sure if punching holes increases the accuracy enough to justify the costs. I'm envisioning a project that has been gutted except for one sheet of drywall. Plans created based on this could still be wrong because there may be something unforeseen behind the one sheet of drywall. A GOOD builder understands this. A BAD builder will whine about the accuracy of the plan (they are usually the ones that build only new homes).

Check your room definitions. You have a layer of drywall within the structure tab AND a finished layer of drywall. The doubling up of ceilings is confusing the framing. Delete the one under the structure tab and rebuild the framing and you will be fine.

It could be a previous auto frame and then you changed some walls, ceilings etc. Try rebuilding the ceiling framing.

I'm not sure that can be done in the real world. It would mean a metal sheet would have to twist. I'm not a roofer but I would check with one before I started figuring out how to model it.

You can always export the floor plan as a DWG file.

I believe that is the cross section slider tool.

OK I'll be the one to ask the obvious question. Why don't you have your architect do this for you?

That is one huge energy heel.

You probably have a one story footing (6x12). You could cause some problems stacking another story on top of it. 2 story needs 8x16 footings.

I might be more fun to identify the 10 worst users.

Quick update: You CHANGE angle snaps in defaults. You turn them OFF in preferences.

You have a lot of off angle walls. You can either snap them to the pre-set angles or leave them as they are and turn off grid and angle snaps (located in plan defaults).

That would depend on how you measure their "use of the program". If simply "operating the program" is what you mean, I would think all 10 would be located in Coeur d'Alene Idaho.

You may need a new wall type. Copy an existing one, re-name it and adjust the thickness to what will work for you. It may help us all to get a better description of what you are trying to do and what software you are using.

Open the dbx for the room created for the bilco door and set the ceiling height to be 16" less than it is now.

Cut and paste your attic vent into the new location of your gable wall. Then you can delete the old one, it will be an unnecessary attic wall. Confirm that you have auto frame on for the walls.

Move walls first then a line the foundation under it. Then move the roof plane. Some things will move with the wall like windows and doors. Sometimes there's a items you have to move manually like furniture and objects.

Try setting the elevation reference of the terrain symbol to "absolute". Add another floor and move the symbol to that floor. You should then be able to add your cabinets without interference.

Select the roof planes and move them all in the Z axis.

Start with this training video. https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-00789/using-copy-and-paste-special-tools-to-create-a-new-material.html

I usually set the automatic functions to frame the deck but not the beams and posts. I set those manually where I want them.

Turn off the ridge caps of the turret and it will look better.

I have not seen 4/8" displayed but you can find all those settings under default - dimensions.

That wrap around stair is one of the more inconsistent features of CA. It works sometimes and then will just stop working. ANY change will make it disconnect again.

Perry may have it right. I have also noticed that OOB materials can show differently in 3D depending on it being a new view generated in X10 or an old plan (and view) that was started on X9.