DRAWZILLA

It's adjusted by the sub fascia size

I always have different notes on every plan anyway so no big deal for me.

I still like the plant/ note sched. better than doing it with text and lines. I never have the same notes on every plan, seems to me you would be deleting a lot

I like "B"

You may have to purchase them from someone, I don't know anyone giving them away.

hold down "Control" and block it.

Very nice Mick, you did it. This just came up the other day with me. A city wanted me to place drought resistant plants in the driveway(5' x 25') area and couldn't create a plant schedule for that, ( which I never do). I guess I'll need to start using a plant schedule b/c here in Calif. we now have to deal with plants and fruits and nuts.

It's almost impossible to draw a correct as built, after the fact, unless you were in on the building of it. I have seen even the original plans were wrong. You just have to get it as close as you can. When the builder tears into it, he will find errors and blame you for not seeing the drain in a wall.

Are your items that you are changing checked to use the layer line weights in the DBX

Yusef likes doing the domes

Yes, I use plan notes on each floor. You have to set it up in the schedule DBX. You cannot use plan notes and plant sched. in one plan.

In the door DBX you have to check this to get different materials on each side. Same with exterior doors also.

I would help ya, buddy, but I don't do night shots ever.

In X7, reduce the recent files list, in preferences ,to about 3 and it will run faster for you. They are working on a fix.

Can't have 2 people working on the same job. That would get messy. You can also use a Cloud service Like Dropbox to distribute plans and keep them up to date.

Look in your X6 archives those original X6 files should still be there. Now you know how it works , could be an expensive learning lesson. Having computers updated to run your programs is a must for any company, just the cost of doing business. Computers are really going to last you 4 to 5 years tops in todays ever changing technology. That's only if you purchased a top of the line machine.

I also use "Existing" to label the plan, and to tell you the truth, sometimes it a big guessing game and I hope I got it correct. I usually tell my clients "Welcome to the remodeling business" when a drain line goes right through a wall you are deleting and no-one saw it.

Joey, All prices nationwide are so very different, depending on where you are. I would starve using Alan prices, and his engineering prices are way low for California. The only way to find out what to charge ,is to go locally and find out what your competition is charging. Check it out in your neighborhood. Prices also change in the same state.

I think you are analyzing it too much, I think it a regional thing and what someone learns about it. I've never seen anyone go into such depth as you have but the good thing is you can do it your way. Have fun with it.

Learn to use the foundation tools given to you by chief, they work good for me. Then it will work for you

It works for my structural engineer.

They have several types of pen at livescribe.com

I would just nail a 2x block under the purlin, that's the old way, now we just extend posts up inside the wall to a beam with an approved steel connection. most of the time an interior shear wall has to extend to the roof anyway. and for me at least purlins are 4x and bigger depending on the situation.

Not if you use an "A35" clip

Downunder, Now I see, they just like to cause trouble.