DRAWZILLA

Move the terrain down. and adjust your footings to deeper it's easier that way. Here is your plan fixed Also adjust the top of the stem wall in the garage to whatever height you want. complete_plan fixed.plan

Glen have you figured out a way to get those newels (piers) to go 18" below grade? That would be great if it worked that way.

If your room is set correctly than it should work if you have built the foundation. Before building the foundation you get a virtual slab( not real) and I have noticed the Garage sometimes not working. By looking at your pic's, I can't tell if it's a virtual or real built foundation. If you did build the foundation, then try to adjust your garage height at that level with auto on. Post the plan if you really want the correct answer.

Look for dirt in the hole.

I think someone should try it and tell Chief, see what happens. Jail time could be fun.

I still have to buy that Disto laser but I just wanted to try room planner first. Its a shame b/c I already have a great laser with the camera built in that I paid over 600 for, just no Bluetooth. I actually use the camera all the time in bright sunlight. You don't have to worry about the little dot at 50 feet away and ,where is it. Oh well, time to raise my prices again.

Just goes to show, "You can get anything by Scott". The master investigator.

I just up-graded my iPad so now I can try Room Planner as maybe a tool for measuring, if it goes quickly , thanks for the tips. A good add on would be a recording option. I like to record all my meetings even when I measure, to catch everything and protect my a**.

I have been doing 2nd floor additions since 1974 like this, I adjust the 2nd floor, floor, by creating a floor with 2 framing layers built right into the floor DBX. You can then add your floor beams as needed, works quite well except the direction for the existing ceiling joists are parallel with the floor joists. I just fix up the sectionswhen needed. This method creates a great duct space and you can put any size beams you want with worrying about floor depth problems. Framers and homeowners also love it b/c you can frame with disturbing the existing as much. You also don't have to re-wire all the existing electric runs and gas lines.

The way I read (not exactly a lawyer), is no, but I could be wrong, of course anything you create is sharable .

Sneaky, I thought you had automatically did all those changes in real time with some new method. You have been eating too much kangaroo.

What if the X2 version is a hacked version, and not registered, or someone gave their old version X2 to him. Not saying it is, but this could happen.

I like it and use it a lot also.

yep, you got it.

David , are you sure Chief would want you to do that.

Break the foundation at the corner so you can change independently, you should be able to adjust it also.

NO I DIDN'T MEAN THAT I meant what I said, select the footing and change the depth of the footing only, to Add 6", you still want the slab just like all the other levels, 4" thick. There really is no stem wallbut if you consider it a stem wall it would also be 4"thick but 12" wide or whatever the footing width is.

Select each raised footing and add 6" to the depth

Nope, look at the bottom of your footings only at the raised portion, they need to be 6" deeper to align with the rest of the footings, Its all about the depth into grade not the depth of the footings.

Isn't that Microsoft's motto also??

the rest of the American women want "Brad Pit"

You also need to select the raised footings and deepen them to match the un-raised footings.

Scott, I laughed for an hour, very funny. Do you all realize you pay for the lunch?

Here we really can't do any prescriptive methods, everything I do is engineered by a structural engineer with Calc's and site visits

Once you have a layout the way you want it , you can always save the layout with the city name and just use that one when needed.