DRAWZILLA

the rest of the American women want "Brad Pit"

You also need to select the raised footings and deepen them to match the un-raised footings.

Scott, I laughed for an hour, very funny. Do you all realize you pay for the lunch?

Here we really can't do any prescriptive methods, everything I do is engineered by a structural engineer with Calc's and site visits

Once you have a layout the way you want it , you can always save the layout with the city name and just use that one when needed.

Greg, you have to do better than that.

Prize isn't good enough to play.

Alan With nail on windows it doesn't matter, I could see your point if everything was custom, probably what you do in Carmel. Most of the homes I deal with for additions are tract homes, built cheaply . Those homes also have no interior casings, just drywall finished. When I'm doing custom it's a different story. My contractor clients would fire me if I sheathed the whole job.

This doesn't get fixed maybe b/c Chief thinks it's such an easy fix--you fix it and save it to your lib. for future use. I say a lot of users never go into the symbol DBX and get lost when they do, so for most people the answer is to just fix it for everyone.

Scott, even on stucco walls? We usually never sheath the whole house The stucco is easy to flair the extra stucco to look ok. Siding is another story , in that case they will usually fir out the remainder of the wall to match the thickness of the shear wall. And we never use vinyl siding strictly for that reason, too flimsy. Hardiplank siding will span 16" without the need for backing. But sometimes it make more since to just go ahead and sheath the remainder of the wall where shear walls are applied. But never the whole house.

Most general notes still apply, if it's not general, then I usually try to place any specific note on the plan it applies to, foundation, electrical, framing. I want the sub to see those in particular. Electrical is special and has the most notes just b/c of the title 24 requirements.

Hey, where's my chicken dinner??

I win, just admit it.

Most of the time we don't sheath everything except for earthquake stuff. I also have no walls with sheathing out here. Mostly stucco also.

Does that automatically cut out for windows and doors?

You can change each type of room to include or not include in the living area. You can also move the living area p-line how you want.

You have to make sure all the rooms are included in the living area, in each room DBX. You can quickly do it using the "match property's" tool in the edit DBX.

There is a new "make living area p-line". Select the outside room and select that tool from the edit toolbar, it will only put a p-line around the living area portion of the house. This is only in X7

Thanks for the info, I usually have something open all day to bring in fresh air, of course unless it's 110 deg. outside.

The cabinet mount outlet also has to be adjusted in the origin of the symbol DBX, it doesn't fit exactly on the cabinet correctly. It's been that way forever and I have turned it in.

Like you say, it's a lot of fixing if you have lots of windows and doors. Right now I just use a siding that looks close, close enough for me until Chief address this. I can see how this could be developed to work with the programmers help.

I have had to sprinkle some larger additions lately

I have one of those fans on all the time, so quiet you don't even notice and creates a negative air pressure so every time you open a window or door air rushes in. Penny says she likes the fresh air unless its too hot out. Those days are when I can foul up the air the best.

Don't they want you to 1/2" drywall the sides of the joists also.

Sure , go ahead and post. I'm sure you will get good input and some bad too. Did you zip and close the plan before sending