DRAWZILLA

Here in Calif. we relish make up air and actually have to install a fan that runs continuously all the time for new homes and additions over a 1000 s.f. The reason for this is to generate a continous negative air pressure inside the home. Because windows are so tight these days, they want fresh air to rush in when you open a door or window.

I have found that with additions you have to figure the energy using the existing plus additions to get them to work

I hope I can remember this next time I do this, big time saver. Maybe I should make one and save it to the lib.

Yes, I'm just tired of always getting kicked out of here.

Make sure your bedroom windows (if you should replace those) meet the egress codes, every window Manf'r should know that , but they don't.

If the cabinet is in 2 rooms just open up the camera DBX for the wall detail and check to "ignore railings and invisible walls", then you will get both rooms.

works great, love it

No, I'm just saying that before the CBC came around, it was up to the local fire departments to enforce in certain areas or not. There was a separate fire code. Way back ,we had to submit plans to the fire dept. for approval. Remember that? Now except for commercial , the plan checker does it but not always, in some cases.

I use Ohagins flat vents all on top of the roof. and on every job. http://www.ohagin.com/

The only thing is that what he says might mot apply to California ,and we have had fire codes for many years, only we didn't enforce it all the time.

you are correct. 2013 california building code based on the 2012 IBC. Residential code (CRC) is just same thing but just for residential

Because it wasn't code then. As you know Calif has their own version of the 2013 IBC, so it's there

I just leave anything having to do with all this off the plan (to the side) of the layout unless plan check catches it, then just slide it all over to the layout. Sometimes I cut the overhang back to comply, it less expensive than providing the soffit.

I would love to do that but around here we have to draw the whole house on every project, even if the addition is 100 s.f. or just a kitchen remodel.

WOOPS maybe not. What code was that from.

I THINK MR. GUMP WINS THE PRIZE, A FREE DINNER FROM MR. TROLL

here is a detail for a typical calif. eave, and I think it's to the prop. line

I would try to set the memory to "in computer" and not to" in printer". that's what I use to do, but got rid of my plotter a long time ago.

Yes, I have had to do this for about a year now but not every city catches it yet so I just leave the detail for that off unless they call for it. Most cities around here use the 5' rule. just another bs rule.

We also like to make our own labels by using macro's instead of Chief's labels, that way you have more control.

Just hold down the "x" key and grab a corner of the label and drag while holding the x key down.

I always build the framing first, then add the trusses. When you re-build walls floor and ceilings. the conventional framing (the automatic ceil and rafters) will go away and the trusses will remain in those areas. A lot of times I have both types in one plan, works great.

DBX= databox. Where all the settings that apply to that tool is set up.

In the terrain DBX at the bottom of the first tab.

Just check "hide terrain under building" for the terrain problem