LevisL

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  1. Write a couple macros, and put them in your label. Not at the computer to try right now, but something along the lines of: %leftcomponentsize%/%rightcomponentsize%x%height%, where you’ll define right component size to be total width, less left component. If you want the label to only report the size like that when the left and right side aren’t even, you’ll need an if,elsif statement in your label macro.
  2. it depends on the equipment and the signal strength. I farm as well and I know the GPS receivers on our machines are capable of precision up to 3”. If we upgraded to RTK receivers, we could increase the precision to under 1”, but the price increase is steep! I imagine higher end surveying equipment uses similar technology. Consumer grade iPhones… not so much! https://www.gps.gov/systems/gps/performance/accuracy/
  3. Whenever I can't get data from a surveyor, I go out to the site with my laser level and shoot elevations myself. I have a Trimble Spectra Precision LL100. It's self-levelling, so it's really easy to set up and start measuring. And with the receiver for the rod, it's a one person job. As @BuildingDesignNZ mentioned, the key is to set a datum point to reference off of. On steep lots or where you have existing structures in the way, you might have to move the laser around a few times, but it's not too bad once you get the hang of it. Here's an existing small commercial building I shot around a couple months ago. Took about an hour to get all these elevations. Each time I moved the laser, I changed the pen colour on my iPad. One thing you could maybe use your Apple Watch for, if it's capable of doing so, is record your position (lat & long) for mapping elevations on larger properties as you shoot them with the laser. I know I used my iPhone for that a few years ago and it worked okay. The key is to use a good mapping app. I remember trying a few before I found one that worked well and didn't cost a pile of money, but I don't remember which I settled on (I deleted a bunch of apps off my phone since then)! If I remember correctly, I actually used a hiking app that records your trail as you go and I dropped pins/flags wherever I shot an elevation. As @dshall said, some of these apps will also record elevation, but the accuracy is nowhere close enough to what I'd consider reliable to build from!
  4. How long ago did you frame up here in Western Canada?! Reason I ask is I've been drafting for about 20 years and what you just listed has been more or less standard as far as I can remember! I've worked in Edmonton, Lethbridge, and I've been in the Peace Country for the last 10 years. All the same. The ladder system at the top of foundation walls apparently is a Western Canada thing though, though even that is more popular in certain cities than others! And very few stick framed roofs. Most of the roofs use energy heel trusses up here.
  5. More than one way to skin a cat! Lol. I don't have those roof intersection points turned on. I find them misleading. Sure they'll tell you where two roof planes will intersect, but what if your heights on one plane aren't correct? Anyway, that's my personal opinion! In most cases when figuring out complex roofs, I usually start with the baseline and calculate the correct elevations from there up, but in certain cases, like your 3:12 overframe, it's just as easy to figure out where the ridge is supposed to be, and work down from that. That's the beauty of the radio buttons we have in the roof plane dbx for height/pitch. As long as you know one of the variables, you can lock it and have Chief figure out the other ones. In cases like this where a particular area generates an odd truss, sometimes it's easier to draw the truss in an area where it'll generate properly, then open the truss dbx and check 'Lock Truss Envelope and Webbing', then move/copy that truss to where you want it. Or manually adjust the truss envelope in a section view. I'll usually try to figure out why the truss isn't generating properly for a few minutes, but if I can't figure it out, I don't keep fighting it! Copy from another location or edit envelope and move on!
  6. @jasonN I sorta found a solution for the wall corner that had extra lines on the elevation view. For some reason, the attic wall on the gable has a "tail" that comes down on that corner. I simply selected that tail and dragged it back up flush with the bottom of the rest of the attic wall. Also, I cleaned up the roof lines and upper roof trusses if you want to check out how I did it . brIan wong addtion3 SIMPLE ROOFS - Fixed.plan.zip If you look at elevation 5 that I added and saved, you'll see how I figured out the correct ridge height for that 3:12 section of roof. I wasn't able to get rid of a few gaps in the siding on the left side of the upper floor, but those won't be visible in your elevation views, so I left them. If you're sending 3D views to your client and they bother you, you could always cover them up with a polyline solid. The one on the corner is almost completely hidden if you add a corner trim to the siding, which I did. P.S.: You'll need to have a short 2x6 pony wall above the existing 2x4 wall on the left side, otherwise you'll have a 2" offset in the siding above the existing roof. I guess you could do 2x4 + 2" rigid foam as well.
  7. After Mark mentioned the off-angle edges, I looked more and I'm finding all kinds of precision issues with the roof planes on your plan, which explain many of your problems: 1. The upper roof planes are not identical on both sides and aren't properly joined at the ridge. One side has a pitch of 4.002289" (change the dbx to decimal inches to see). 2. The overhangs are not exactly 24" all around, due to the off angle edges Mark discovered. 3. Your lower roof with the "different ridge cap" doesn't actually have a ridge cap because it isn't properly joined either. Part of the ridge on the lower plane is also at an odd angle. 4. That 3:12 roof in between the upper and lower roofs is a couple inches to high and doesn't extend all the way to the upper wall. If I can give you a few pointers to improve accuracy: 1. Make sure your object snaps are on, as well as angle snaps 2. Work with line weights turned off to be able to see better if things are lining up 3. Use the 'Join Roof Planes' tool instead of manually joining ridges Still trying to figure out the wall intersection problem. I'll keep you posted on that one!
  8. Zoom in real close on this point and you'll see that your overhangs don't quite match. I made them snap to the point you have there and the fascia looks like it should after that.
  9. Or maybe an errant attic wall floating around somewhere?
  10. The problem might not be how you created the pdf... it could also be on the end of whoever is printing the pdf document. Are they printing at 100% scale? Often times the default setting when printing from a pdf reader/viewer is "Reduce to printer margins" or "Fit to paper" or something along those lines.
  11. I'm guessing you have 'Floor Supplied by the Foundation Room Below' checked in the structure tab of your garage room. If that's the case, put your room divider on the foundation level and it should work. You could also use a floor material region.
  12. You should be able to do that from whatever pdf viewer/editor you are printing from. Here's a screenshot from the print dbx in Adobe Acrobat Reader on a Mac.
  13. You could also do it with a molding profile assigned to a polyline around your perimeter (or more than one molding if you want to do the edge, skirt, and angled insulation separately).
  14. Well I definitely was unaware of that one! Thanks Michael!
  15. Good to hear. Just FYI, I had a look at your symbol... you don't need 3 stretch planes in the Z axis for this one. A single stretch plane anywhere between 16 1/2" and 67" would accomplish the same thing. Multiple stretch planes come in handy where you have more than one part of the symbol that you don't want to distort, or want to stretch on either side of a particular element. For example, let's say you have a set of 4 shelves evenly spaced apart. You could add 3 stretch planes in the Z axis (one stretch plane between each shelf) and the symbol would always keep even shelf spacing, no matter the symbol height. Or for a custom cabinet or piece of furniture with drawers, you could have a stretch plane on either side of the drawer hardware in the X axis, so no matter the width, the hardware looks correct. Once you create a few symbols with stretch planes, you'll get the hang of it!