glennw

Can you post the plan. It looks like all the pitches are 8:12?

Larry, Why not just draw the floor plans in their correct location in relation to the site master plan to start with? If I am understanding you correctly, you can't move the referenced plans in the master plan - you can only do that in the individual plans. You could draw the plan outlines in the master plan and then copy/paste them into the floor plans to locate the floor plans, but I see all that as being the long way around and unnecessary.

First up, you can't create rooms on the Attic level. So build a new floor and go from there. Use a very small ceiling height and no flat ceiling over.

I didn't try too hard to find a limit, but I had 12 plans referenced and I was switching between them in the master site plan without trouble. It is a pretty cool way of working because all the floor plans and 3D views can display the referenced plans (so it looks just like the original plans), but the objects in those referenced plans can't be selected or edited. To do that, you need to go back to the original referenced plan and make your edits, which will be dynamically displayed in the master plan. One thing to remember to do would be to draw your referenced plans with the correct offsets from 0,0,0, so that when you reference them in your master plan, they all fit together in the correct locations relative to each other.

Larry, In most cases, you probably need to use both. Without a Joist Direction, Chief will span the joists over the shortest span. If that works out, OK, if the joist directions aren't what you want, then you have to use the Joist Direction tool.

Or... I haven't tried this to sort out any problems, but it should work. You could try using reference plans. Draw each dwelling in their own plan. Draw your master site plan and then reference the individual floor plans. This way, any changes to the individual floor plans will be dynamically reflected in your master site plan. No need to muck around with duplicate plans, stripping out files, creating symbols, etc. All the various dwelling plans and master site plan will always be up to date and synchronised. You would probably need to initially spend a bit of time to set up some reference default sets, and some other settings - but it could be well worth it. This could also be a good way to do things like showing alternate kitchen designs in a master floor plan. ie, you could have several alternate referenced kitchen plans that could display as alternate kitchen choices in both plan and 3D just by changing the reference plans.

Thats why I said:

Draw a straight driveway. Select it. Grab it by the centre end grip and drag it into a curve. Driveways added to the ends should merge (same as curving a stair. Or...Select a straight Driveway and select the Change Line/Arc tool on the Edit toolbar.

How and where did you create the door schedule?

Roads, Driveways and Sidewalks are not really just polyline solids. They are terrain objects that may interact with the terrain data so as to maintain a flat surface over their top surface. ie, they cut and fill the terrain in cross section. It can depend on how they were created. When you convert a closed polyline to a Road (Perimeter) it does not cut and fill the terrain - it follows the terrain like a terrain feature. When you convert a line to a Road (Center Line) it will cut and fill the terrain.

A Terrain Wall isn't a wall - it really is a terrain path - more like a solid, that will follow the terrain, cut and fill the terrain when running parallel to the slope and will follow the terrain slope when running perpendicular to the slope. This is an L-shaped Terrain Wall:

Any wall apart from a Retaining Wall as they usually create too many problems, mainly with all the auto wall steps they create.

It looks like you just need to move either the wall or move the Terrain Break to the middle of the wall. What type of wall are you using? I usually get everything correct with Elevation Regions, Elevation Lines and Terrain Breaks before placing a normal wall. I usually don't use Terrain Walls or Retaining Walls.

Scott, Yes, I did delete it because I suggested you could use a joist instead of blocking. The trouble with that is you can't do staggered blocking as per your pictures, so I deleted the post as the suggestion was pretty lame.

You have 2 choices: For equal pitched roofs you will need to change one of the roof heights. Done in 4 seconds with auto roofs. Draw a room Divider. Select room and change ceiling height. Or...if you want the same plate height for each roof, you need to change one of the roof pitches in the wall's dbx.

I am pretty sure that this is doable with auto roofs (similar to the pic attached). BUT, the critical thing is the geometry. What are the critical dimensions and what is their priority? Ie, is it the floor/floor heights and sizes, building width at each floor, roof slope and structural sizes.....? A change in any of these could make the roof undoable.

Try this. Delete all the wall framing in one go by using Delete Objects. Multi select the walls you don't want to frame. Open the dbx and on the Structure panel, check Retain Wall Framing. Use the Build Framing dbx to build all the wall framing. Any walls marked Retain Wall Framing will not frame - because Chief remembers the state of this setting on a wall by wall basis.

Yes, I think this has happened to me on a couple of occasions even though I have a plan open. I haven't been able to track down when it happens as its only been a couple of times so I haven't send in a bug report yet. I think from memory that clicking the menu bar brings it all back as it should be. I will take more notice next time it happens. I note that Michael is also on a mac for what it is worth.

You can control that behaviour with the Connect Island Rooms setting:

Is this happening all the time or occasionally. I don't have any problem on my mac.

Gene, Here is another way that works. Make this selected wall (or some other walls as well) a Furred Wall. Why not try making those double walls as a single wall definition? It may be worth a try. I have no idea why changing that 1 wall to Furred effects walls on the others side of the building. I have also gotta ask because I don't do any walkout basements - is there any particular reason why you put a full liveable floor on level 0 and don't have a seperate Foundation on level 0 and the first liveable floor on level 1?

In X14 you can specify material defaults (as well as all other parameters) for 3D Solids.

Don't use a Garage room type. The Garage room type automatically supplies a raised stem/curb wall up to the main floor level. As Eric said, you can't specify a floor step down or level in the Room Types defaults (except for in the Build Foundation defaults for a Garage).

Your hole may be interfering with the bottom edge of the solid. It looks like you are making this a lot harder than it should be. Instead of the Boolean operations, have you tried selecting the polysolid and then From the Edit menu use Solid Feature. Draw your hole and then shape it. You can draw your hole over the edge of the polysolid if you want. Or...if you have a lot of the same shaped holes, draw the shape in the elevation view with cad, copy them into place and then convert them into a Solid Hole - you can multiple select the cad shapes and convert them to holes all in one go. I think this will be much easier and more intuitive than using the boolean operations.

Check to make sure your foundation is forming a room. Go down to the foundation plan and try selecting the foundation room. If you can't select a room, look for unjoined walls.