Dennis_Gavin Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 Inserted a filler, changed depth to 24", you can see the outline of the selected filler is 24" BUT the color is only 3/4" deep/ The rest of the panel is invisible. What's up with that?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheKitchenAbode Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 Fillers do not have sides, just as they would be in a real cabinet install. Use a partion instead. In your situation the fridge bay would have left & right finished panels. Graham Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis_Gavin Posted February 22, 2016 Author Share Posted February 22, 2016 Graham, I did change to partitions but I thought I saw someone post full depth fillers last week. Now I have to go find that post. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg_NY61 Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 You have to use full depth side panels which have a frame face of 1 1/2", 3" or 6" wide depends on the size you need and room you have to work with. Ref cabinet must have a min 36" clear opening under them, more if located near a wall. If you insert any panel under it you will never fit a ref unless you go for some undersized type. Also if you use a 3/4" panel you cannot attach your cabinet to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joey_martin Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 That situation is not a filler....it a "cabinet". Insert a full cabinet and set the specs accordingly. Save it to your library so that you will have it to use again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joey_martin Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 Here is the one I keep in my library. Using this is a better option than using a partition when it comes to toe kick, panels, and moldings. Ref. Side Panel.calibz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alaskan_Son Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 Dennis, Just create your filler and then uncheck filler (General tab right next to the Type selection dropdown). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis_Gavin Posted February 22, 2016 Author Share Posted February 22, 2016 I used to make them from a std cabinet and save them. What I forgot to do with the filler was uncheck filler! DOH! Thanks for the slap up side the head Michael!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alaskan_Son Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 I used to make them from a std cabinet and save them. What I forgot to do with the filler was uncheck filler! DOH! Thanks for the slap up side the head Michael!! You bet Dennis : ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheKitchenAbode Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 Why would you use a filler or cabinet for this application? Your labels and material lists will be incorrect. Fillers, Cabinets and panels have a distinct meaning in the cabinet industry. The "partition" element is the correct item to use. Although the term "partition" may not be universal it is easily understood. Other similar terms are "finished panel", "gable panel", "end panel" and "side panel". Graham Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alaskan_Son Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 Why would you use a filler or cabinet for this application? Your labels and material lists will be incorrect. Fillers, Cabinets and panels have a distinct meaning in the cabinet industry. The "partition" element is the correct item to use. Although the term "partition" may not be universal it is easily understood. Other similar terms are "finished panel", "gable panel", "end panel" and "side panel". Graham I don't think anyone is arguing the terminology. Just trying to figure out the best way to build the item in question within Chief. There are several limitations with using a partition, the biggest of which in my opinion is the inability to have a toe kick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe_Carrick Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 Another way to do this is to use a Full Height Cabinet with an opening for the Refrigerator. It can all be done in the cabinet dbx. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alaskan_Son Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 Another way to do this is to use a Full Height Cabinet with an opening for the Refrigerator. It can all be done in the cabinet dbx. That's the way I personally do it as well. I was just just trying to address the filler question. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe_Carrick Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 Michael, Personally - I prefer panels due to the basic problem of installing such large/flimsy cabinet wtih the side panels already attached. For me it's much easier to erect the panels and a wall cabinet in between. But in Chief, either way works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRAWZILLA Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 Joe, never thought of using a full height, thanks for that little jewel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheKitchenAbode Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 Michael - Agree that if you require a toe kick then you are likely forced at this time to use a cabinet or filler. For the fridge example in the original post I would never have a toe kick cut-out, panels would be full depth to the floor. Can see where a toe kick cut-out may be required for a base end gable panel or possibly on the left & right of a dishwasher. Maybe Chief needs to add this option to the new configuration settings for cabinet accessories, side panel options as to having a kick cut-out. Graham Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis_Gavin Posted February 22, 2016 Author Share Posted February 22, 2016 Joe - the potential problem with a full height is the duplicate doors and hardware on the back. IF just presentation no problem but if you wnt an accurate material list it's a problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe_Carrick Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 Joe - the potential problem with a full height is the duplicate doors and hardware on the back. IF just presentation no problem but if you wnt an accurate material list it's a problem. True, it's all a matter of what you need. As I stated in post #14, I personally would use Panels just because I don't like installing tall cabinets - particularly when the sides are unsupported. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkMc Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 In X8 you can get the back correct for a complete cabinet- I use them for inset jobs depending on maker, installer, and client. First set back to match front, then switch to custom and change the doors. Just wish I could extend the sides without increasing the depth- for that I use fillers. I make panels from cabinets most often since partitions don't go into the cabinet schedule unless you block them-and then they are prone to having the dimensions read backwards depending on floor orientation. Greg- not sure why you say a 3/4 panel can't be attached to the cabinet ?- been doing/having it done for years, in particular on frameless. The one thing I have run into though is some fridges- in particular Korean ones- nowadays bulge out partway along the side so a nominal 36" fridge that was supposed to be 35-3/4 or so measures at 36 1/4, had one almost 36 3/8 at the girth. You can manage to get that in if you have a face frame (with a shoe horn) but not with a flush side panel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alaskan_Son Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 Joe - the potential problem with a full height is the duplicate doors and hardware on the back. IF just presentation no problem but if you wnt an accurate material list it's a problem. I've never had this problem. Maybe because I've never set the back to match front. Is there really any reason to do that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkMc Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 Oh then there is the issue of getting the little puppies in. The attached is for a Sub 48 Pro in a NYC apartment. I had told the client well ahead that he needed to talk with the appliance people, that it was likely they would have to remove the compressor to get the fridge into the apartment. Someplace along the way some bozo decided to make the installers life easier and made this as a single cabinet- because they could. Alas the molding on the outside of the doors in the hallway line up and make it just a smidge impossible to get the thing to the doorway. So the bozo will be cutting it in half this Thursday and replacing the top panel after it's reassembled- coulda had a V8. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkMc Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 Michael- these most often are open at the back of the fridge space- front matches back gets you that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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