joey_martin

I have 2 projects that are wrapping up this week, will have room in my schedule for new projects. - Homeowners looking to have their ideas worked into plans - Chiefers that need some overflow help - New clients you don't have time in your schedule for Send them my way.

I do a lot of walk outs. I show the upper portion of the wall and use a CAD line as the lower portion. This is the plan view... This is the foundation view...

I was in Newport last month for a week...sadly...I'm now back in Indiana. Do you need someone local or can I help you remotely?

I do them all the time. You may have to move the plants/trees around, but it's pretty easy to get a great "sketch"

Then you cut a hole in the ceiling plane and add a flat ceiling plane at the height you want.

Because it's in the attic and not on a new floor. It's a tricky thing to do. Check all the walls for room definition, especially the outside gable wall (which I always forget). You may end up needing to add a second floor, checking the box for the roof to ignore the upper floor, and then you will able to assign that bonus room.

When you flip a plan..ie...edit area or copy/paste in place....anyway. The walls that end up butting into one another will join as one wall. You will most likely need to break those interior walls so that you can adjust the new ends to butt where you want them to.

So much more than a drafting service! 20+ years of architectural and construction experience leads to great design and superior planning. Con Docs second to none at prices affordable to homeowners and builders/developers alike. https://www.facebook.com/martindesignplanning/

85% of my work is basement....Floor 0 is for the basement. Use Layer/Anno Sets to control what is visible between the 2 different plans.

Shane the foundation you should be able to do if Auto foundations are set up. Once you have a basic 4 walls set up simply open the defaults and set them. As for the upper floors, those you set at the time the floor is created.

Indiana... The maximum riser height is 7 ¾ inches; all risers must be within 3/8” of each other. The minimum tread depth is 10 inches, with a 1-inch nosing. A nosing is not required where the tread depth is 11 inches. All treads must be within 3/8” of each other.

Use the EDIT LAYOUT tool and hold down the SHIFT key while selecting the area of the first floor. When selected, open the DBX and change the line weights, and also I make the color a gray scale so that it looks even more faded allowing the thicker, upper floor to stand out even more.

What version are they in, and what is the timeline?

Program aimed at volume builders and/or developers looking for a long term relationship. https://www.dropbox.com/s/ceb3rfbz5kto04p/Builder_Developer Services.pdf?dl=0 Also offer homeowner and small home builder services as well. Sample "Builder Set" can be found here. Plan sets and their contents will differ from region to region, this plan set is typical of Indiana/Midwest. https://www.dropbox.com/s/1n4jajmfzj7jdoq/Caroline Plan Set_12_01_16.pdf?dl=0 Caroline Plan Set_12_01_16.pdf Builder_Developer Services.pdf

Hmm....does it offer you the ability to produced curved or arched roof planes? If so they yes, I would say you could easily produce those, if no...then I agree with above.

No window headers in X8.

I might be interested, because I have a client that would like to me to share x10 files and I don't have it, but....I can upgrade my X8 to X11 for $1695, $2000 seems high for a resale w/o SSA. I could do half that.

On our side of the Rockies we still build with common sense

I work exclusively from Dropbox. And I also use Chief Exclusively for ConDocs.

It's technical illustration that has has the background manipulated to match the green theme. That's my take.

I'm confused. What in the world is all of this about? I have been using Chief for close to 12 years (?!?) and have ALWAYS gone to Best Buy and grabbed a new HP off the shelf and add a GForce card if needed. What in the world is all this extensive testing for? I have never...I repeat NEVER had an issue with my OTC HP computers. Does any of this apply to average small office designing homes and creating ConDocs?

All of those are great ideas, but honestly....just a note and move on.

With all due respect to Mick and the others that are tossing out ideas, simply turn this job down unless you own a copy of AutoCAD that you can do this in. The file that you have there is "Paper Space" it looks like, not the plan file. There are a couple different ways you can manipulate that file, none are quick, and none are easy. If you take this job you will end up paying the client.

Yes. Export the model as a 3DS file and import into sketchup

In other words...."I am going to question everything you say or do with someone less qualified to give their 2 cents as well." No thanks. Been there, lived that.