GeneDavis

No tilt to the baseline. Pitch is negative 5:12 from high edges.

Here is a single roof plane on a 24x24 plan, pitch set to 4", baseline angle set to -10 degrees. Its mirror image is all that's needed to complete your desired shape. Your pitch and baseline angle can be changed to suit.

I built this one manually, and am OK with the result, except that the fascia and shadowboards don't miter properly. It is a tiny thing, so I just ignore it.

Edit your truss envelope so as to get the ledger notch. Frame the ledger by hand, and same for the blocking. Chief does a lot for us using the spec dialogs, but for this, you gotta do a little yourself.

In my Win10 setup I find I have to do a restart to correct that, even with the Win toolbar set to hide.

Zip the .layout file and attach it, and I or someone else will print to .pdf and then post the result. If it's under the size limit, it may attach without need for the zip. Try that, first. You won't get help from the ghoster, but you will from us.

Well. Mr Tiny House, I think you have likely lost most of us here at the forum, who in future will see a post from you and click right past. Any quick foray into Chief's HELP dialogs when exploring the dimension defaults setup would have exposed the term "secondary" which you gotta admit is getting near your preferred term of "dual." So dual off, guy.

Here is two room house I quickly sketched. I selected the interior wall. Look at the picture. And fill out your signature (if you are a Chief Premium user) so we know. If using Home Designer or something else, find the appropriate forum to post your question.

Be sure and open the breaker before trying this!

I changed the glass in on of the pendants to "lighting white" and moved the light source down to 55" so it is inside the shade, not above it. I also set the number of light fixtures to be on to 100, from 20.

The ones in the kitchen? OK for me.

You drew a one room house. House area is measured to outside of walls, not middle or inside. Check with your local jurisdiction to find how property records are done for taxation, for bank lending, and in doing building permitting. Real estate goes the same way, to outside of building lines. Room figures are typically given in inside wall to wall dimensions, not in areas.

Putting these 3D birdseye view of a floor on the CDs seems all the rage. Look at all the Chief sample plans. How does one get the best resolution? I bring up the view in Chief, carefully orient it, and then export a picture. Importing into layout, I don't see the resolution I would like.

That function is available in other CAD packages but in Chief you need to work around it with a patch. In the two images, you can see the dimension as generated, the patch, and the patch moved to cover the true dimension.

Try it yourself. Go into a wall detail with whatever dimension default you want to use, turn off the framing finds, and you'll see you cannot get a dimension pulled. Then draw two vertical parallel CAD lines and dimension with end to end or baseline. Now pull OFF THAT dimension to snap dims to other points. It'll find all the stud edges, when it would not before. It's like the starter in making bread.

Well excuse me! That was it! But the big question remains, which is with the preference for framing find (edge or center) OFF, why does it start to find edges or centers when one begins a string using CAD lines?

That's not it.

The only kind that works is point to point. No end to end, no baseline, no running. I can do it if I "kickstart" things by drawing a cad line and pulling a dimension from the CAD line, but without that kickstart, Chief CAD will not pull a dimension. Try it yourself. Draw a wall, frame it, open up the wall detail, and try drawing some stud to stud horizontal dimensions.

Each of those is done with a wrapped molding. Note: Attach your images, don't attach a link that must be downloaded.

That "door height" is actually the door opening height. Chief does not give you door heights. Play around with cabinets and take section cuts, use the measure tool, and you'll get up to speed on what to do. Some of us use the faceframed approach to do frameless cabinets, setting the "separation" (i.e. faceframe stiles) width at 3/4", and the overlay at 11/16". Customize your verticals however you want, but I set things to my wall cabs have a top reveal of 1/8" and a bottom of zero. Basecabs top reveal is 3/8" and bottom is zero. You back into these numbers setting separation sizes and overlays.

Wouldn't one, after changing pitch of a built roof, just take a section and measure how much it should be raised or dropped, to re-seat properly? This, whether one rotated the planes about their baselines, their ridgelines, or their fascia lines?

What scale are your floor plans at the Super B layout page size? What scale are they at the Arch D page size? Did you rework all your annotation to be scaled right for the larger layout page size? Whether I am printing at letter size or Arch Whatever, I want my letters and numbers 3/32" high. What would carpenters need to know that they would scale from a print? Please be specific, because scaling seems so archaic in this age of digital plans-making. The only thing I can think of is "where does this interior door go?" My interior doors are either (T) for tight, or located with a dimension if not tight. "Tight" means "you guys figure it out from however you are going to case the framed opening. That casing edge should be maybe 1/8" off the sheetrock."

Thanks, Mark. I did not know that break that happens between separation = 1.875 and separation = 2. I can certainly live with 1-1/8", particularly with all the LED strip lights we have available now. Back in xenon bulb puck days we needed more depth for the housings.

Well, that's the diff between Pro and Free Make!

Thanks. I probably did what Michael did, which was to do some degrouping. A lot of the stuff you get from the 3D Whse needs this kind of fiddling to get textures to identify separately in Chief.