GeneDavis

It is annoying because when you sheet across a house width that is 4' modular (24', 28', etc.) you end up short and need to buy more material. To keep from having a small strip of make-up under a wall, I like to start off with a ripped half sheet.

An annoying fact about most all t&g sheathing panels is that they are not 4-foot modular in the short direction. I figure on getting 47-5/8 inches. The mills make the sheets 48" wide to the tip of the tongue.

The reboot worked fine for me. Thanks. What happened to the feature in the forum that permitted one to identify the best answer to the question?

I just downloaded a .ttf file, an decorative arts and crafts font, and it is in my Windows directory, in the fonts folder. I don't see it in Chief. What is the procedure?

Look at the strange behavior I get when I draw a floor truss in your plan. While the image of the truss seems to be rectilinear (and at the incorrect elevation), the envelope of truss is skewed when selected, with a correct top elevation underneath the wall, but skewing to 3/4" high out in the floor area. Someone more talented than me is going to have to analyze where you went wrong in drawing this thing. I cannot replicate your result starting with a simple plan.

There are no floor trusses in your plan. The 18" depth floor joists in your plan are at the correct elevation. But when I draw a floor truss it places 3/4" high.

The baseline is placed on the outside of the wall's main layer. The out-of-box exterior framed walls in Chief have the main layer being the framing. Have you changed that? In X8 I drew a simple 4-side house, set my roof default to be using 2x12 rafters, then built a roof, framed walls and roof, and took a section. See attached. The framing is as one would want, with a full birdsmouth landing for the 2x12 rafters.

The question I have is how is this treated in 2D? I've no interest in showing a client a 3D view, but want the supplier and installer to know where to put the accessory. Our kitchens come with the Rev A Shelf type accessories uninstalled.

But Richard, why would you not just rebuild your roof using the newly specified 2x12 rafters? Doing so would place the roof plane at correct height for a full birdsmouth cut on the 2x12s. You don't seem to be asking Chief to change its baseline position so much as you want Chief to auto-rebuild your roof at a new HAP (height above plate . . . framers talk) when you re-specify your rafter depth for the plane. It knows how to do so and always give the desired full-depth birdsmouth. Would like to hear back from the original poster, on how he works with this to get results.

The roof is raised from top plate depending on how settings are made in the roof defaults dialog. In that dialog one sets the rafter depth, and if building with trusses, one can set the heel height at baseline for the truss envelope. One unchecks "automatic birdsmouth cut" and controls the heel height with the "raise off plate" value. Totally logical when specifying a stick built roof, not so with a trussed roof. With a trussed roof, you need to remember that the "raise off plate" value you set in the spec dialog will be the distance from the plate top at building line (base line) to the bottom of your top truss chord. Chief helps you out by telling you what the truss chord vertical depth is, and it call it the "vertical structure depth." For example, if your pitch is set in the default spec at 8:12, and you have set your "rafter" depth at 3-1/2" (most likely truss chord), the default dialog for the birdsmouth geometry will return you the vertical structure depth of 4-3/16. To get a roof plane positioned so your trusses, when built, have a 12" heel height, you set the "raise off plate" figure at 12" minus 4-3/16" or 7-13/16". Draw your roof plane with this setting and you will get that 12" heel you want.

No, I am going to reverse myself. There is no need for the baseline to be on the inside of wall framing to get full-depth birdsmouth cuts on roof rafters. Chief gives us that. Please see the attached. So, back to the OP, BrianS-Design, why are you not getting satisfactory results?

I don't care about 3D, but want it in the 2D plan and elevation, plus the schedule. Izzat possible?

You're RIGHT, Richard. Sorry for my injection of wrong thought.

Larry explained it perfectly. Thanks, Larry. But I gotta ask, why should the baseline for a trussed roof be the wall line (the outside face of studs) and for a stick-framed roof, be the inside face-of-studs line? From someone who has framed both ways, what difference could this make? When it's time to frame or engineer the truss package, the pitches are fixed and shown on plans.

Simpson Strong-Tie complete product line, plus 2D CAD representation, full ability to pull structural hardware schedule, ability to use only 2D in plan so as to save file space, what else? See Michael's recent post in which he offers the I-joist hangers plus preferred 2D representation. While the 3D is nice have for a detail, I would not want my model all laden with the surface-count one would have if using these in a house model everywhere hardware goes. This would work unlike other symbols in Chief, in that one could control whether or not the 3D symbol was alive and in the file where placed. The default setting should be NO 3D.

I was a housebuilder for a while, and wanted to have some software for doing more work. Built an exact copy, down to the light fixtures and doorknobs, of the one shown here at this link. https://www.houseplans.com/plan/2979-square-feet-3-bedrooms-2-5-bathroom-prairie-style-house-plans-2-garage-33513 First thing I did (I did not know about or had a need for Chief yet) was to learn Sketchup, and I used it to do an exact model of the structure I was just completing. See it here in the 3D Warehouse. https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?id=6c9192eb17218bc02a08194fd3f4120d My interest in 3D software at the time was for the purpose of working out roof structures so I could better specify and check engineered roof truss submittal drawings. After I finished that house, I got into kitchen and bath work with a partner, and realized after a few jobs that I needed far better 3D rendering than what Sketchup would do for me. So I got Chief, and began to climb the learning curve. I committed myself to about two hours a day of work, making an exactly-detailed model of the house I had built. I used Sketchup to make symbols of many of the custom fixtures in the house. After that, I wanted to be able to make professional con docs, and so used the resources at the Chief website to get examples of con docs. Wendy's and Joey's examples were my guide. Again, I used the house I had built, for which I owned a highly detailed 25-page planset, as my guide, plus the styles and detail schemes used by Wendy and Joey, to do so. IMHO, it is the best way to learn Chief, plus coming here and asking questions.

If I am the one framing those walls, I want the dimensions to the framing corner intersects, not the intersects of the drywall finish. I think you are showing framing in your pic #1 but cannot be sure. You can edit your scheme where the wall springs off the first wall at 45, so as to retain your desired first wall length. Your inside intersect moves rightward, of course.

Coming from the door industry, I wish Chief permitted easy selection and placement and scheduling of these entries with sidelites. Just like a slider door, or a center-hung patio door, these entries are priced as a unit, bought and delivered as a unit, and installed as a unit. I wish it was, and it isn't, but Chief should have a work method and tools that allow building this right up front as a unit. Entry doors with sidelites need to have a category for spec all their own, in which we can select and choose for sizing and style and glazing and muntins for the door and its sidelites. We should not need to do workarounds like we do now. We should be able to do all our specification in one dialog. I'm a Sketchup power user and can create just about any door one might put in a house, including matching sidelites. I can texture them with mahogany, do exotic beveled leaded glass, Frank Lloyd Wright glass, anything one could desire. Building a library with such door symbols, and using them, is easy and fast. But I find it tedious to have to first treat a door-with-sidelites unit as multiple openings, and I find it unrealistic in 3D to then view a built-and-blocked unit and not see true mull post detailing.

That's the way I've done it. I used a polyline solid to close and trim the pork chop.

Thanks, Michael. Never knew that was there. As an exercise, use X8 Chief Help and do a search in Help for "edit all roof planes" and see what you get. One would think an actual command would get better visibility than this one does in Help.

I am still in the dark on this. Where is the Edit All Roofs tool? Any or all of the roofs displaying on a floor plan view are selectable, either by shift-select or by marquee-select (if only roofs are displaying). Selected, one can edit properties including framing, rafter tails, etc. Same type of selection options are available in 3D, and take note that while you can select multiple objects, they must be all from the same 2D plan display. If I have porch roofs on floor 1 and main up-top roofs on floor 2, I can only select multiple planes from one floor. So, where is this tool that when used opens all roofs for spec at once?

I am dying to know where this is. Can you be more specific, please? We are talking structure and rafter tails here, essentially copying and pasting a whole set of spec variables from one roof to a selected batch of separate roofs. The rafter tail parameters alone involve profile, size for W and H, and offset.

Out of curiosity, why the need for such 3D realism? If done in a gyprock-finished mechanical room, it's often hidden behind an access panel. And if not flush-built, the PEX lines are all going to be visible. If so, will they need to be 3D modeled, also?

Your Chief version, please? My library (X8) has multiple options. Here's one.

Or minimize their size to 1/16"