Chopsaw

So that is why my title block is all screwed up in X9. Thanks Chief Blueprint.

Yes I have always found that to be quite annoying but have not taken the time to file a report. Just makes it that much more difficult to make your work look professional.

Jamie, Here is some discussion on your topic that may or may not help but is worth reading:

Nice demonstration of the application of your technique. Thanks Michael

Whistler, I don't think it is possible to do that in a fully automated way, so my choice would likely be to stick with the auto railing tools and manually frame the deck. Go ahead and auto frame the deck and then turn that off and move the framing and decking in the amount required to clear the railing legs. Drop the room the equivalent of (L) Planks and Joists. Make the rail that much taller and raise the bottom rail the same amount and you should be good.

Not quite sure what stage you are at with the project but you would need to create a new template for Arch D ( 24" x 36" ) or just go to page 0 and edit your existing layout title block to fit the new paper size. Then your drawings could quite easily be enlarged to 1/2" scale.

Lew, If it is just a straight rail set the "Spacing" in the Newel/Balusters tab to 60" and you should be fine for a 20' railing wall but Michael's video shows what to do if there are interaction issues like I thought you said you had.

Maybe Michael could Help:

Is your Paper Size 24" x 36" in layout? It looks to be smaller maybe 11x17 or 12x18.

You may want to explain a little more of what you are trying to accomplish but it sounds like you may run into more problems than just the elevation of the buildings. Depending on what your hardware specifications are and the size of each individual plan file. You may want to consider starting a 6th plan file for all five structures to be inserted into as symbols so you have a manageable file size and individual control of the elevations.

Lew, I think the only way that would work is if you built the model correctly while recording. Maybe a macro could be written that would record everything and the when you were finished it could tell you all of the unnecessary actions that did not contribute to the finished product. Kinda like an auto tutor.

Rich, Why don't you just figure out how to log the clicks for one job and maybe you could charge by the click or at least you would know why your mouse gets beat up so bad.

Shane, Are those truss plates that I can see in your 3D illustrations? My version does not seem to do that. Whats up? Is that from the truss company?

Hi Boxon, Here is the link to the post where Rod shared the file I use as a demo in the video: And here is a video of how I think he did this, but of course I am open to suggestions if there is a simpler way. Hope this helps. With Michael's tip this works much better. Not quite sure what the rules are or where they are written but boxes seem to play better on a roof than solids.

Charles, Not sure I understand what is happening with your situation but if you put those Roof planes on their own independent layer and call it something like "Roof Plane - Valley Plates" and turn it on in your 3D Framing Set then everything should work fine with that method in X9.

I think the trick is to not have an air space or include it in the definition of one of the walls. You might also try making one of the walls a "Furred" wall.

Yes that is a good idea as it is always something you have to be careful of. I think I have even seen suggestions that chief should do this by default.

Use the Wall Covering feature in the Room Specifications for the lower area below the chair rail. As for the breaks in the chair rail look for extra nodes in the room molding polyline and get rid of them.

Sorry, I did not know that the Pony wall was part of the discussion until I brought it up.

Sorry, My mistake the window works much better if the interior wall is the one set to "Furred".

Johnny, It should work fine if the exterior wall is set to "Furred" and the window is set to "Through". How do you put siding on an air gap?

Might be possible with a Pony wall but I have not tried your situation. Depends on how it is actually going to be framed. A railing might be a good idea to use as the Furred wall as it will allow you to control the height. Just set it up with the layers you need.

Johnny, Did you try setting the extra wall to "Furred" ? I think this is what you are looking for.

Any chance that you used and resaved that camera by mistake?

Yes that is a little disorienting. It is a lot of work but you may be able to create your own backdrop screen depending on the situation and layout of your plan and terrain.