Chopsaw

Sorry, My mistake the window works much better if the interior wall is the one set to "Furred".

Johnny, It should work fine if the exterior wall is set to "Furred" and the window is set to "Through". How do you put siding on an air gap?

Might be possible with a Pony wall but I have not tried your situation. Depends on how it is actually going to be framed. A railing might be a good idea to use as the Furred wall as it will allow you to control the height. Just set it up with the layers you need.

Johnny, Did you try setting the extra wall to "Furred" ? I think this is what you are looking for.

Any chance that you used and resaved that camera by mistake?

Yes that is a little disorienting. It is a lot of work but you may be able to create your own backdrop screen depending on the situation and layout of your plan and terrain.

Emma, Welcome to X9. I think this is the setting that you are looking for.

Johnny, Not sure that this is the issue but what pdf printer are you using and have you tried any others?

Here is a link to an old but good X3 video of using the valley rafters for valley plates by Alan Brown: http://www.indyblueprints.com/videos.html see video #4 and there may be others you might find helpful. This would be a little more work to do over trusses but I think it could be accomplished however there is still the issue of the valley plates not laying flat on the lower roof plane that you have to decide if it will work for your own situation or not.

I am not sure if it was David who demonstrated this or not but you can use the valley rafter or a copy of it to represent the valley plates by changing the dimensions and it will look ok in 2D and not bad in 3D if you use the correct angle in a fixed image. However if you are using a valley plate as wide as a 2x12 it will be quite obvious that it does not lay flat on the roof plane. Michael's method does work in X9 and may be the better option until Chief provides us with some better tools.

Hi Boxon, Here is the link to the post where Rod shared the file I use as a demo in the video: And here is a video of how I think he did this, but of course I am open to suggestions if there is a simpler way. Hope this helps. With Michael's tip this works much better. Not quite sure what the rules are or where they are written but boxes seem to play better on a roof than solids.

I am uploading, but goes slowly. Looks like not my day. 1016_N_Arlington_Mill_Dr-PROPOSED-V3.plan I wanted to help with the valley plates (ledger) where you were stuck, but the plan file has no framing or trusses at all. Sorry but it would be best if they were all finalized and in place to build over.

Flip me your plan file and maybe you will see it fixed in the morning.

It can be done with a Polyline Solid but it is still a lot of work and understandable why some people would not bother.

Is this the same question as: Or are you looking for something a little different?

Jared, Don't have time to look too deep right now but there is a good bit of difference between 7/64" and 3/8" when it comes to text. That is all I have for now.

A little confused by your request but it seems like maybe you have the sequence incorrect. You must first select the item you would like to adjust the dimension of and then go to the dimension line that is connected to it and watch for your mouse pointer to change to a hand pointer and then select the dimension line to adjust the position of the selected item. Maybe?

Only you will know unless you care to share the plan. Is that a hip roof or a endwall truss with a screwed up attic wall in the background? Or possibly just a bad cut as Graeme was pointing out.

Yes I noticed that as well and it seems inconsistent and more confusing than the interior wall. Is it roof sheeting or an attic wall?

Not sure what your wall definition is but I just leave mine set to Drywall and it usually makes sense. The gray is a little confusing but most people associate builders beige with drywall even if they hate it. I was working with a rafter detail the other day and I thought it was strange that I required a different layerset for plan view, std view, and vector view, just for one rafter. Nothing worked for every situation and it was a simple everyday framing detail.

You could select the wall and make it invisible but that would likely mess up one or more of your other live views. Maybe a unique layer for just that one wall. You can assign a material of "opening- no material" to the wall but the gray will not go away. Would a Cad detail work ok for that situation Larry?

Thanks Eric, That works. It has nothing to do with the truss dbx and follows the wall default, interesting.

Is there a way to automatically set the centers for the vertical members of an End Wall Truss or am I stuck doing a manual edit? They seem to be defaulting to 16" but mine have been engineered at 24". Thought this would be simple but can't find a way to do it.

No fortunately I have not seen one of my plan files do that since X8.

Jess I have not seen that exact issue before but I trust Michaels judgement and it would be a good Idea to look for any objects outside of the plan envelope. Maybe start in the elevation view that is a problem and use the "Fill Window" tool or [F6] hotkey or sometimes CTRL +A works better because it gives you a selection bounding box that you can search around the perimeter of. If that does not work try the same thing in plan view. Also if nothing shows up around the perimeter you can switch to you "All On" layerset and make sure that all of the layers are turned on. It can be a tedious search but with those tools it should not take long to know if you have that issue or not. This condition will also cause a problem when opening a new camera view as it will try to make the camera capture the rogue item as well as your plan items and if it is bad enough you will end up with neither in view.