Alaskan_Son

Yes. That's definitely doable in Chief. Chief's primitive 3D modeling tools definitely take a bit of getting used to though. Sketchup would probably be the cheapest and easiest alternative for drawing a few details like that. I would personally prefer to use Chief but I've also been using it quite a while and have gotten used to all the little idiosyncrasies.

There are a few different models in 3D warehouse too if you search tub filler or floor mount faucet.

Aunttieem, You missed my point. As a teacher, you of all people should know that you're only going to get out as much effort as you put it and it seems you would want to be a shining example of that. Your previous post only reinforces my point. You wrote up 12 well thought out and detailed lines when you had an agenda to push but when you were requesting people to donate their valuable time to assist you with your problem the best you do was... "Plan files too big to attach. Sorry, newbie here." You only took the time to post 3 lines in your OP as well. Anyway, you may not like what I had to say but it was the truth. And my suspicions were correct. Joey's "more helpful" response was dead wrong and did little to help anyone. I can't blame him though as your OP was too vague, unclear, and lacking in critical details. Its not your wall heights that are the issue its your ceiling planes. the baselines, baseline angles, heights, and pitches need some work. I believe the vast majority of your problems lies with the fact your exterior wall is at a slight off angle. That caused your ceiling plane along that wall to be at an off angle as well...and the one on the opposite side of the room is the same. Fix those things first and see if that helps clean things up for you.

Good tip William! Only small downside is that if you want the footing to span from one foundation wall to another you don't get a clean "join" (i.e. the footings don't "heal")...you end up with an extra line. Again, very good tip.

Looks like you're running a Home Designer product. You should probably post over on the HomeTalk Forum... https://hometalk.chiefarchitect.com/

You just have 2 schedules Mark. One in the plan, and one in a CAD Detail labeled "Schedules"...and they're both set to Use Callout For Label.

I 3rd (or 4th or 5th) using walls. I think I would use 2 separate walls or 2 GROUPS of walls (which I believe would fix the "protrude into the building" issue you mentioned)... One wall (or room) on the main level and one at the attic level. As I believe Joey was talking about, you just need to break and reshape the upper wall section to sit on top of your roof. Should be quite easy. EDIT: On second thought. You can probably just set the upper wall sections to Roof Cuts Wall at Bottom and you won't even have to break the walls at all.

It would really help to see some sort of picture, screenshot, or plan to illustrate what you're talking about. If I understand correctly, I don't see where the problem is or why there is a protruding into the building issue. Sounds pretty simple. Can you give us some visuals or a plan file?

Not sure I fully understand the question. Attaching a screenshot or plan showing what you're trying to do might help. If I do understand what you're saying though, it sounds like you want to continue a section of footing without the wall. If that is correct, there are a few options you have depending on your overall goal. 1. Ideally, you should probably use the wall type that you will be placing on top of the footing and set the wall as a foundation wall. This will give you your footing. You can put the wall on its own layer and turn it off so just the footing shows if you want. 2. Set the wall section as an invisible wall. Again, you can put the wall on its own layer and turn it off (or just turn off the invisible wall layer) so only the footing shows in plan view. 3. As Joey said you can draw a slab footing. This is really the same thing as option 2 except that by default the wall type is set to the same width as the footing. You would still need to set it to be invisible to display correctly. Each of the above methods has its own strengths and weaknesses but I think #1 is probably the best. You'll just have to figure out what works best for your particular situation. There may be other ways but those are a few that come to mind.

FYI, I think its always worked that way. I just tested in X6 (oldest version I have installed) and it worked the same way. Still needed 2nd layer to be designated framing material.

Good catch guys. I looked in that floor structure tab too but missed that. To reiterate what Joe and Greg are saying. The 2nd layer in your floor structure has to be designated as a framing material. You can use the same material you have there now. Just use the Adjust Material Definition tool and on the general tab under Material Type, select Framing. After doing so you'll likely have to open the Deck room DBX and then click okay to force the rebuild.

You are correct. It only removes the floor if you save the plan after the error message or crash (don't remember which now).

Looks buggy to me. You actually didn't have any deck support selected, but even after I addressed that, the posts and beams wouldn't show up. They show as being used in the Layer Display Options, however if I switched to the All Off Set and just turned on those layers there's still nothing. Unless someone else sees something, I think this is one for tech support.

I just tested this using a plan started in X7. Was able to get error messages, crashes, and the second floor was removed. Tried it again with a plan saved using the newest update... Was still able to reproduce the warning messages, the crashes, and the second floor being removed.

No. I don't know either. I do know how I might use them though. There are definitely times when I'd like to show the overhangs and general roof outline without cluttering up the rest of my plan view with unnecessary roof planes. I'm sure somebody needed them for something or else they wouldn't of gone through the trouble of setting up the new functionality.

I think this just means you aren't one of the people who needed them.

Are you changing the PLUMBING WALL to a Furred Wall? Should be no reason to delete framing. And are you building the correct framing (Subfloor for Floor 2)?

...or polyline sidewalk.

Not sure how others might use them, but I can see those overhangs being useful for cleaning up plan views while still keeping the overhangs and general nature of adjacent roof lines in the picture. I'm all but certain I'll be using them.

On the structure tab, under double wall options, select Furred Wall. EDIT: Guess I was too slow. Robert beat me to it. I'll leave the post though as it describes HOW to make it a furred wall.

Nice work Alan.

See post #3 in this thread... https://chieftalk.chiefarchitect.com/index.php?/topic/9103-poly-line-labels-why-did-chief-bother-to-add-this-feature/?hl=%2Bdecimal+%2Bplaces

I agree that doing manually would probably be easiest and end up looking the most accurate. To answer your question though Alan... No, "Fence Panel" is NOT one of the options when importing. You would want to import as "Millwork" which you could then select to be used for the fence panels.

Just a quick update... The issue with piers and pony walls has been fixed in the most recent update. Thank you for listening Chief. Keep up the good work.

You are very welcome : )