Alaskan_Son

There doesn't seem to be a default setting for this (although I could be missing it). You can simply hit the P button though to toggle the crop mode on and off.

There IS a way... 1. Make Room Polyline 2. Hold down C (concentric edit mode) and resize the polyline using one of the corner edit handles so that it is past the midpoint of all the walls. 3. Convert Polyline to Materials List Polyline 4. Click Calculate Materials List

Agreed. Pretty much exactly what I was getting at.

I think I would probably use a couple wall material regions. Some variation of this (maybe using a moulding polyline or a 3rd material region for the frame or casing if you want it)... Access panel.plan

For the screen you can also use windows with a very large number of Lites and very narrow muntins...

"I go back to my initial question, what is the difference between the two attic spaces in post 13?" For starters, your "mansard" roof is not above the top story. Its also concealed as opposed to many attics that have an attic access. "Which of the two spaces is a concealed space and what is the definition of a concealed space?" Your "mansard" roof area is a concealed space. I'm not certain of the exact definition of concealed space. I actually believe that the fireblocking section is the only place in the entire IRC that uses the term. It seems pretty clear to me though that its any space that's inaccessible and that can serve as an easy pathway to allow fire to travel from one area to another. I kinda think that any area or transition a firefighter can't easily access or visually inspect could be considered "concealed". I think you just have to use some judgement...might be the reason they left the definition a little vague and open to interpretation. This seems like a decent article on the subject though... http://www.fireengineering.com/articles/2011/08/havel-concealed-spaces.html "Which of the two spaces is a horizontal space..." In this case, the triangular shaped pathway created by your "mansard" roof. BTW, I used quotations around the word "mansard" because that particular roof isn't what I understand a mansard to be. All good. I just don't want to be the one responsible for redefining terminology (at least not in this case) : )

Not necessarily advocating it, but a person could always just overlap 2 plan views for this

Its more than I have time or energy to try and discuss in detail here right now, but read R302.11 Scott... R302.11 Fireblocking. In combustible construction, fireblocking shall be provided to cut off all concealed draft openings (both vertical and horizontal) and to form an effective fire barrier between stories, and between a top story and the roof space. Fireblocking shall be provided in wood-frame construction in the following locations: 1. In concealed spaces of stud walls and partitions, including furred spaces and parallel rows of studs or staggered studs, as follows: 1.1. Vertically at the ceiling and floor levels. 1.2. Horizontally at intervals not exceeding 10 feet (3048 mm). 2. At all interconnections between concealed vertical and horizontal spaces such as occur at soffits, drop ceilings and cove ceilings. 3. In concealed spaces between stair stringers at the top and bottom of the run. Enclosed spaces under stairs shall comply with Section R302.7. 4. At openings around vents, pipes, ducts, cables and wires at ceiling and floor level, with an approved material to resist the free passage of flame and products of combustion. The material filling this annular space shall not be required to meet the ASTM E 136 requirements. 5. For the fireblocking of chimneys and fireplaces, see Section R1003.19. 6. Fireblocking of cornices of a two-family dwelling is required at the line of dwelling unit separation. The area you're talking about could definitely qualify as concealed horizontal space that needs to be draftstopped IMO.

So you're essentially talking about big triangular pieces of drywall, plywood, fiberglass, etc.?

By the way Scott, you still haven't stated exactly where the inspector wants to see draftstop. Do you even know? That is a key piece of information. In the sketch you provided I can count at least 6 different places where draftstop could potentially be required depending on the way the structure is constructed.

Larry, Just a quick note. I think you're taking an unnecessary step in creating a CAD Detail. By simply creating a Plan Footprint you're already creating that detail. Just a minor thing but I wanted to throw that out there for anyone who may not know.

I haven't seen your entire plan but the reason I said that was because it might be those "interior" walls or floor system communicating with the roof system where the inspector wants to see draftstop. Besides that, even IF the inspector wants to see full triangular shaped stops every 10 feet, I'm not so sure that's a bad idea...That roof system is actually a lot different than your typical attic situation. Your typical attic situation is wide open. The roof you have drawn up creates a sort of "chase" or path for fire to travel elsewhere (possibly unnoticed and a lot harder for firefighters to access).

Didn't realize it before but I guess you're partially correct. I just tested again and it looks like you have to be at least past the midpoint of the wall to get the drywall to calculate.

I would personally build that entirely from scratch using solids, p-solids, cabinets, mouldings, slabs, framing material, etc. It really doesn't take all that long and just turns out a whole lot more accurate and realistic. By the time you're done screwing around with wall definitions, adding your screen material, cleaning up the layer display issues, etc. it may actually be faster. Here are a couple snap shots of a similar one I drew up a while back. It doesn't have the screen material but you'll get the general idea. I think I used strictly p-solids on this one.

In offering a very good solution (thank you David) I think David may have also inadvertently pointed out the problem. It looks like the Calculate Materials For Room tool is simply using the room polyline as a Materials List Polyline and that default polyline only extends to the interior surface of drywall. If you want the drywall from the room's walls included in a material list then it must be completely enveloped by the polyline.

If you re-read Glenn's post you'll notice he said "...using different dimension strings along the same line..."

Actually Scott, I think the answer to your question depends on EXACTLY where your inspector wants to see draft stop.

Sounds like Alan is using 3D objects to create his plot plan instead of just using CAD in plan view (as opposed to using CAD in a CAD Detail). There are really quite a few ways to do this. A person could... -Use CAD in a CAD Detail -Use CAD right in a plan view -Use generic 3D objects in a plan view -Use the terrain tools in a plan view -Use a combination of the above -Use a combination of plan views and reference sets I personally usually just draw the plot plan up using CAD on the first floor and put it all on it's own unique layer. Edit: After reading Perry's post below I realized I should probably clarify something. I don't use CAD for anything that I'm already going to be drawing up...only for extraneous items such as lot lines, wells, septics, outbuildings, neighboring buildings, roads, power poles, power lines, etc. and even then, some of those items might be getting drawn in 3D anyway in which case I wouldn't use CAD for those either.

Hey, Thanks! Never noticed that there : )

The most efficient method kinda depends a little on exactly what information you have and how it's formatted. Can you post the survey (or whatever it is that you have to work with)?

Good idea Dave! That's another good alternative assuming you don't want to show opening indicators. Never thought of doing that. Wasn't possible before X8. Thanks

Eric, just one man's opinion here, but I personally think the way you write dimensions in inches is one of the confusing methods (32w x 48h instead of 32"w x 48"h or some other way that includes the inch symbol or inch abbreviation). Because you have both numbers you'll likely never have a problem, but if you get someone lazy writing up your order they may only choose to look at one of them, and if they look only at the second number you could potentially have issues. Just my $0.02.

I have always called in my orders verbally and usually use both terms to clarify. Having said that, Jere is correct. It's all about how you say it or write it. For a 2040 window... You could SAY "twenty by forty" or "twenty forty" and screw it up or you could say "two oh four oh" and get it right. Or you could "two zero four zero", "two zero by four zero", or "two oh by four oh" and just confuse people. You could also write it a ton of different ways...some of which could lead to confusion. In my experience the most correct way is to use superscript for the second number of each dimension (I would write it that way now but I don't know how on the forum). I beleiev 2040 is also an acceptable alternative though. Beyond that you have: -20 40 (bad) -20x40 (bad) -20" x 40" (just plain wrong and very bad) -24"x48" (correct) -I'm sure there are plenty others. It just needs to be communicated correctly one way or another and like I said I have always done that verbally just to be sure, and if I don't use BOTH terminologies I will usually just use inches (especially when ordering oddball sizes).

This is something I personally have to draw up on almost every single job and no, its not something Chief can do automatically. I have requested it in the past. Maybe its time for another request. You can address this one of a few ways... 1. The best option in my opinion is to simply place the hardware "manually". Drop a piece of hardware into a plan view and then adjust it in elevation views to get it where you want it. Put it on a unique layer and just turn that layer off in your plan views. You could either set the pullout to be a "Drawer - Panel" so you only have to set the on piece of hardware or you could set it as a "Drawer" and set both pieces of hardware manually. 2. Depending on the cabinet style and how you like them to display, you can stack 2 cabinets. This way your lower drawer (the pullout) can have the handle placement set independent of the upper drawer. 3. If all you have is a pullout (no drawer above) you can simply make it a drawer and set the hardware placement. In this situation I guess it would be pretty automatic. Regardless of which method you used though I wouldn't set that item as a door like you did in the screenshot you posted but would set it as a drawer. Hope that helps.

Hey Jim, I didn't spend a whole lot of time looking at it, and I'm not exactly sure what your structure is supposed to look like, but its looking like Eric probably guessed correctly. You need to actually cut a hole in that lower roof to allow those walls to build through correctly.