Alaskan_Son

Ya, now that you mention it that's how I recall they first teach you to select things in the users guide. I quickly abandoned that technique pretty early on though and now I only ever use it when I'm having a tough time finding a particular edit tool. I'm wondering now if I should consider using it more often. It's really not a bad technique and might be quicker in some circumstances. Thanks Mickey...Is Mickey your name?

Hey, that's an interesting little trick. Thanks. BTW, just realized holding down control does the trick as well.

You are correct Glenn. That's pretty much how I understood it to be. My explanation may have been a little oversimplified though. I only said Johnny had to suppress interior casing because they wouldn't work as they were in his particular plan. I just didn't want to suggest adjusting casing down to a size that was smaller than what it was actually supposed to be. The real problem is that you can only manipulate those numbers so far and they won't allow for a good handful of real world settings without a little manual work.

This might answer your question, I'm not sure, but... You can "mull" windows together so long as they're within 24" of each other. The "mullion" width is simply decided by how far you space the windows from each other. If you uncheck "Single Wall Hole" on the options tab for the mulled unit, the openings will frame separately. So, if you want a single stud between them, then space them accordingly. In that case, its wouldn't truly be a mulled unit in my opinion...just 2 (or more) windows with some shared molding(s).

You are correct. The key is to be in either Select Objects mode (Space) or using the point marker tool. Either of those will allow for very easy selection of that point marker.

Yep. That's a pretty cool idea Perry. For anyone unfamiliar: The width, spacing, and direction for the top framing layer for the deck is controlled via the Deck tab...Deck Planking. The width and spacing for any additional layers is controlled via the Deck tab...Deck Joists. You can only have one unique top layer (planks) but you can have multiple additional layers beneath that (joists). The additional layers will all have the same width and spacing but could be separated with an Opening (No Material) layer . The depth of all the aforementioned materials are controlled via the room Structure tab...Planks, Joists. You can get very creative by checking "Keep deck framing after the deck room is deleted".

You actually have to suppress interior casing too if you want to keep those windows from automatically joining together. I think the way windows work...as soon as casing touches they join together thereby removing that wall section between them. Probably better off just suppressing the casing and drawing that in manually.

You bet. I think the reasoning is that decks are a unique structure with 2 framing layers rather than a finish that spans the entire floor. Come to think of it, that's exactly what the Help files said but I didn't realize what it meant till just now. I actually cut that part off the quote because it seemed unnecessary but I guess it was... "A Deck room is an exterior-type room that uses deck planking and framing to create a floor platform rather than using a floor finish that spans the entire room area." A floor finish in other words covers every square inch while deck planking is multiple pieces of framing material.

Where it says "Side Type" you have to change it to "Custom Face". Clicking on the item in the side window just does that automatically. I suspect you just weren't actually highlighting an item when you were having problems.

Confirmed my suspicion. From the Help files... "...A Deck room is an exterior-type room that uses deck planking and framing to create a floor platform rather than using a floor finish..." I underlined that last part for emphasis.

Its your floor structure settings. I believe decks need 2 layers in the Planks,Joists section. You only have one. Move your Trex decking down to that Planks,Joists section and you should be good.

I wouldn't call what the moderator said in that thread a confirmation that it's a problem. They just said they would share the behavior with the team. The team may very well have looked at it and said "That's how its supposed to work". Anyway, I really think they work exactly like they're supposed to . I responded with my explanation in that thread so as not to hijack this one.

Just do a save as of the plan and layout right now and then make all the changes you want to the second version. No need to go back and try to undo anything... If you don't like your changes, simply revert to the old plan. That's how I personally handle situations like that anyway.

Try using Edit Area (All Floors). If I understand your question correctly, I believe it should do exactly what you are looking for.

You're very welcome!

Diane, You can make the walls align in several ways. The first 3 that come to mind are... 1. Change the thickness of the brick veneer on that foundation wall to 4-7/16" 2. Set the foundation offset in the wall definition for the upper walls to 9/16" 3. Move the brick veneer on the foundation walls down to a main layer and then set the upper walls to foundation to exterior of brick. Also, I just happened to notice the 2 outside corners on the front of your house have a funky void on the corner. Open those 2 front walls one at a time and on the wall type tab under pony wall, set it to display the lower wall in plan view...Now click on Edit Wall Layer Intersections and use the edit handle for that exterior brick layer to drag it out to meet the face of the brick on that adjacent wall. When you're done fixing both walls you can set it back to displaying the upper wall in plan view. Hope that helps.

A few things that come to mind… Are you accidentally sending to layout as an image? Do you have it set to print in color in the print dialog box? Are colors toggled on in your layout?

No. I didn't miss anything. I understood all that.

I have never messed with that particular option. I'm curious now though… Does checking that box cause line weights to VARY (i.e. retain their aspect ratio and become thinner for smaller scales and thicker for a larger scales) or does it cause them to stay consistent?

I just think its wise to be careful what we ask for is all. If there are obvious potential drawbacks and costs, it might be a good idea not to try and push an issue too hard. We may get exactly what we ask for...and find it it wasn't worth the cost. Not saying that's the case with this, just think its worth considering.

Lew, I have no doubt the method you described would work and I don't believe it would be too difficult to accomplish. I just think it would miss the target by a mile. You would still have 4 different plans to manually modify and sync. I guess it's not a bad idea and it might serve a purpose, but its nothing like the "phase" idea. The key to making any good, usable "phase" system would be to be able to place ONLY the new objects being modified and have the connections work correctly for all options.

Just figured this out. In your Window Schedule defaults, you have to check "Include Type" in the label tab for the type to display in the labels (whether or not a schedule is even dropped into the plan). And it works the same way for other schedules. I think what must happen is that when we check that box the additional macro is added to the automatic label for that particular object type.

You bet.

Johnny and Boxon, you have to Convert Curve to Polyline AND THEN Convert Polyline to 3D Molding. If you've started with a 3D Molding Polyline you'll have to convert that back to a plain polyline first.

You can also just specify each one of those segments as a Blank Segment (Segments tab of the dimension dbx).