Alaskan_Son

Switch to Perspective Crop Mode under Camera View Options. That will take you back to the way it was before. If you're not in Perspective Crop Mode, the camera isn't simply jumping around its actually moving wherever you take it. When you zoom in on something the camera is actually moving closer. When you pan, the camera is moving over.

I think what Johnny was mostly asking for was some clarification. Maybe a sketch or screenshot of what you're talking about? I for one don't really know what you're talking about. There are brick ledges on slab foundations, brick ledges on standard foundation walls, brick ledges on wood beams, brick ledges on steel, brick ledges on concrete beams, etc... There are post and beam foundation built entirely of wood, there are grade beam foundations with concrete grade beams built on piers or pilings...some of them may have standard foundation walls with a brick ledge, some may have a mono slab with a brick ledge...and those are just a few common residential details that come to mind...the list could easily go on. We'll need some clarification to give you an answer.

Your top 2 elevation lines each appear to be 3/8" too low. Fix that and you should be good to go.

Those defaults are decided by whichever Annotation Set you have activated when you place those auto dimensions and therefore by the dimension defaults assigned to that anno set... Note: Just a quick FYI...but you can select any of those auto dimension line(s) and change the setting I have circled after the fact if you want to.

The Help files are pretty clear on what that tool was intended for. I think the Help files are a grossly underused asset.

Johnny, try these 2 things... 1. Use a regular foundation wall, set it as an invisible wall, and turn the invisible wall layer off in plan view. OR 2. Simply break one of the foundation walls in 2 places perpendicular to where you want your footing and drag that little footing across to the opposite wall using the footing edit handle. Only downside to this method is that you end up with an extra line when trying to join that extra wide footing to the opposite wall. The line only shows up in plan view but its a bit of a nuisance.

You can also consider using a pony wall and then just break and reshape as necessary in elevation.

Okay, so I played around with it a little more. I definitely WAS overlooking something. You'll have to forgive me. We very rarely use mono slabs here in Alaska so I haven't had to draw them up much... I take back what I said about thinking the slab footing should be an invisible wall by default. That works fine when trying to draw a simple standalone footing like in Johnny's example, but when used for the purpose that tool was created it doesn't work so good. It works fine for a mono slab with a zero ceiling height but once you start playing around with thickened edges you start to have problems.

I don't think we're talking about mono slabs here Scott (even though I believe that was the purpose Chief had in mind for the Slab Footing tool). In Johnny's video for example, I think he was playing around with putting simple footings inside a crawlspace foundation. In those instances though I think more often than not a person is better off setting the foundation wall type as the actual wall type that will be framed on top of that footing. Regardless though, I maintain that the Slab Footing tool should probably be an invisible wall by default. I don't know though. I may be overlooking something.

Nevermind that I said this. I just got back to my computer and tested it out. The width of the wall resizes along with the footing, so I'm back to thinking there's no reason the wall shouldn't be set as "Invisible" by default. I'm going to send this in to tech support. It's really just confusing as it is. If you look at the little icon, it appears as if the wall on top of that footing is indeed an invisible wall. Why its not set that way by default is beyond me.

On second thought, maybe the reason they did not set it as an invisible wall by default is because people would get confused when they resized the width of that footing using the edit handles and all of a sudden there was a 16 inch wall displayed. If people catch on by themselves that they have to change it to an invisible wall they are more likely to remember the wall width needs to be changed instead of just the footing. That's just a guess though.

I believe the confusion arises because by default that slab footing tool should be set as an invisible wall but it's not. Check "invisible" and it should behave a lot more like you would expect it to.

Second, I've said it before and I'll say it again, Main Layers are NOT all that come into play, specifically with regard to the foundation. The Foundation To Exterior Of Layer setting for your main floor walls is more important when it comes to foundations. Whatever item that is will align with the outermost edge of your foundation wall's MAIN layer(s). Two more items that can immediately come into play... -Whether or not your walls are actually aligned. If you make any changes to your wall types you may very well have to click "Align With The Wall Above (or Below)". -The Foundation Offset setting. I've been thinking a video regarding wall layer settings and alignment issues might be in order. Maybe if I have a chance sometime this week I'll make one.

First things first, you have your exterior walls set to Build Platform To Exterior Of Layer: Tan1 Siding. That's whats causing those gaps. Your floor platform is framing to the absolute exterior of your structure and because you don't have any framing displayed, you're just seeing a gap. Change the Build Platform setting to the appropriate layer and you should be good to go.

Same with me. I only have problems when I take a long time to post something.

Are you sure you're looking at the "Date Modified"? Windows Explorer has about 10 different items you could potentially have displayed that show "Date _____" including; plain old "Date", "Date Created", "Date Accessed", etc... To make sure, you can right click up in the column header area...

There are all sorts of creative things you can do to build a really cool 8 foot wide house. I think the real problem might be meeting code requirements though. That and being able to afford it. The costs per square foot is likely going to be quite a bit more. If code isn't in issue and if you have the money, do a quick search of extremely narrow house and you'll probably come up with quite a few ideas. The stairs actually aren't that much of an issue. The real challenge is finding a good way to utilize every last cubic foot of space. Think multipurpose and hidden storage.

Yes. That's definitely doable in Chief. Chief's primitive 3D modeling tools definitely take a bit of getting used to though. Sketchup would probably be the cheapest and easiest alternative for drawing a few details like that. I would personally prefer to use Chief but I've also been using it quite a while and have gotten used to all the little idiosyncrasies.

There are a few different models in 3D warehouse too if you search tub filler or floor mount faucet.

Aunttieem, You missed my point. As a teacher, you of all people should know that you're only going to get out as much effort as you put it and it seems you would want to be a shining example of that. Your previous post only reinforces my point. You wrote up 12 well thought out and detailed lines when you had an agenda to push but when you were requesting people to donate their valuable time to assist you with your problem the best you do was... "Plan files too big to attach. Sorry, newbie here." You only took the time to post 3 lines in your OP as well. Anyway, you may not like what I had to say but it was the truth. And my suspicions were correct. Joey's "more helpful" response was dead wrong and did little to help anyone. I can't blame him though as your OP was too vague, unclear, and lacking in critical details. Its not your wall heights that are the issue its your ceiling planes. the baselines, baseline angles, heights, and pitches need some work. I believe the vast majority of your problems lies with the fact your exterior wall is at a slight off angle. That caused your ceiling plane along that wall to be at an off angle as well...and the one on the opposite side of the room is the same. Fix those things first and see if that helps clean things up for you.

Good tip William! Only small downside is that if you want the footing to span from one foundation wall to another you don't get a clean "join" (i.e. the footings don't "heal")...you end up with an extra line. Again, very good tip.

Looks like you're running a Home Designer product. You should probably post over on the HomeTalk Forum... https://hometalk.chiefarchitect.com/

You just have 2 schedules Mark. One in the plan, and one in a CAD Detail labeled "Schedules"...and they're both set to Use Callout For Label.

I 3rd (or 4th or 5th) using walls. I think I would use 2 separate walls or 2 GROUPS of walls (which I believe would fix the "protrude into the building" issue you mentioned)... One wall (or room) on the main level and one at the attic level. As I believe Joey was talking about, you just need to break and reshape the upper wall section to sit on top of your roof. Should be quite easy. EDIT: On second thought. You can probably just set the upper wall sections to Roof Cuts Wall at Bottom and you won't even have to break the walls at all.

It would really help to see some sort of picture, screenshot, or plan to illustrate what you're talking about. If I understand correctly, I don't see where the problem is or why there is a protruding into the building issue. Sounds pretty simple. Can you give us some visuals or a plan file?