Ridge_Runner

Molding polyline for the top rail and adjust offsets if necessary.

There was some discussion on this topic recently with some software/hardware suggestions. A quick search would probably bring it up.

Rich, is work "slow" on Mars?

Nice tip, Glenn.

30"-36" - Text clarity was my biggest concern in switching to a TV. The 4K TCL I use is excellent in this area - much better than my 32" LG. Wish I had made the change before I did because I no longer have the eye strain I did with smaller monitors.

@Joe_CarrickIs Yoda going with him?

Same here, except my 43" TCL is model 43S415. I bought a Hisense 43" 4K from Walmart but it only lasted a few weeks; screen went blank and would not turn back on. Took it back and ordered another TCL. That said, if you go the Hisense route, yours may work just fine.

@Rich_WinsorThanks for a good laugh, Rich! Very much needed, especially today!

Ryan, I think Brad says most of it in this statement. True masonry chimneys, especially for as-builts and much older houses, require a lot of work as they aren't walls but objects. I have done them using the tools CA gives us (slabs, solids, polyline solids, moldings, etc.). Fancy brickwork adds to the pain. CA had a masonry chimney symbol in the library very early on (not sure how early, but I started with Chief 97 and 3D Home before that). It was very limited in use and couldn't be modified very easily; more for looks really and a plan symbol. I agree that there are too many variables for CA to give us period fireplaces. How would they know what is wanted/needed for "your" fireplace and chimney?

Nice, Robert!

Some guidelines say to not fasten the last 12" of drywall, at the wall, to the bottom cord - let it "float." The drywall on the walls will support the ceiling edge and allow the trusses to move. The logic goes contrary to the way most think, but seems to work. If on an interior wall, use truss clips and fasten to allow the truss to float but still be held in position by the clips. Also, this one from JLC https://www.jlconline.com/how-to/interiors/truss-uplift-solutions#:~:text=Truss uplift usually occurs when,that closes in the summer. Another article https://inspectapedia.com/interiors/Roof_Truss_Uplift.php

Good one, Rich, but should have been recessed!

I think this is what I did (some time ago) as mine comes up as 25 and 10 respectively.

Obviously, I didn't win! Nice work.

@rlackoreAre you guys using these much, Robert?

Cool!

Very impressive, Richard! Does it keep accurate time?

Nice!

I did this for years until I started trying to use CA's joist labels a few years ago. I believe perpendicular (or at least at an angle across the area, which I have seen before) is the "old school" way of doing it; at least in my area.

There are some older threads on the method Glenn shows; a search should bring them up. I believe Mick @Kbird1 even posted some materials for doing cedar battens at the time. Just be aware that some manual editing will be required in the wall details like Glenn shows. I have used this method before and it does look good, but does take time to edit correctly.

I went and added my name to the suggestion.

Thought the same thing, but I loved your answer. Wait....answers!

Too funny! And the answer is?

Same here. Every time it catches me I go down frustration lane!

And some heavy pivot hardware!