-
Posts
1543 -
Joined
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Everything posted by DBCooper
-
If I was to make a guess, I would look at your ceiling heights and other settings in your room structure for the loft area. The best way to get some real help would be to post the plan.
-
Think of the cabinet tools as building blocks. That island is really a lot of separate pieces put together but each one by itself is probably not that hard. The counter top is just a custom counter because you can make them any shape you want and then use a molding for the edge profile. The legs could just be posts from the library or you could make them using cabinets as well. The end panel could just be a cabinet that is only 3/4" deep. When you get stuck, you can always build pieces using other tools like poly solids. Most of the stuff in this video will probably still work in X11: https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/watch/10222/kitchen-islands-custom-countertops.html?playlist=171 There are lots of other videos and tech articles. Just do a search for "kitchen island" and you will find lots of stuff. If you get stuck on a particular part, come back and ask more specific questions.
-
Electrical objects can attach to furniture in X16 even when the layer is turned off. I noticed the same thing in X15 with cabinets. Seems like if the layer is off, they maybe shouldn't.
-
Change an existing stair between "up" and "down" ?
DBCooper replied to JBradleyConst's topic in General Q & A
Not sure what you mean. I think you can draw down stairs anywhere you want (although you might get a warning about doing it inside a building). I drew the stairs holding the alt-key and manually created a hole in the floor for the picture below. -
Change an existing stair between "up" and "down" ?
DBCooper replied to JBradleyConst's topic in General Q & A
Do you need to keep the actual geometry or just the style? If you are using X16, you should be able to save the stair into the library and then draw the new one going down using the alt-key and keep all of the style settings. I'm still not convinced that you actually need a "down" stair. There are a lot of ways you might be able to handle this without a down stair. You might be able to just make a copy of the stair on the floor below and as long as it is in an open below room it will show as a "down" stair. If you don't have a floor below, you can manually adjust the heights and then manually draw your own "down" arrow. -
Dialog boxes popping up on all object selects
DBCooper replied to Don_Proven's topic in General Q & A
Maybe it's a mouse problem? If your left click was really doing a double-click, then it would open the dialog instead of selecting the object. Try a different mouse or take a look at your mouse settings. -
Change an existing stair between "up" and "down" ?
DBCooper replied to JBradleyConst's topic in General Q & A
As far as I know, you can't. There is a "reverse direction" tool but that still won't change an "up" stair into a "down" stair. Most of the time you don't actually need a "down" stair though except when drawing stairs going down from your porch or deck on the outside. Stairs usually work best when drawn going up to the next level. -
Follow up problem with furring in 4" walls
DBCooper replied to SkyTree-Greg's topic in General Q & A
I think they are just left overs. Fix the interior wall type and then rebuild the framing. -
Plasterboard extends below the framing & floor
DBCooper replied to Mezmerelda's topic in General Q & A
Maybe you have a room molding set to go below the floor? Also, check your wall type and look at your "layer properties" to see if you have accidently set a "layer extension". If it's not one of those things, then you should probably post a plan like Gene suggested. -
Check your room floor/ceiling heights. They should all be the same, and preferably, they should all be set to "default". If the stairwell, or any other room is set differently, it can mess up your roof.
-
I was able to the the wall lengths to line up by drawing a room divider between them on the second floor and turning off the auto generate attic walls. Not sure if there is a better way though. BTW, using room dividers or invisible walls to align walls with others on the opposite side of a room can be a really good way to keep things lined up.
-
Not sure what you mean by "move function"? Are you not getting the move handle when you select the wall in a plan view? I was getting it and I can't think of a reason you might not. Or, are you asking about the "align wall" tool? You will only get the wall align tool when your walls are not aligned with one on the floor above/below and in your case they are so this tool won't show up.
-
Try placing the sinks into the floor plan by themselves and then dragging them on top of the cabinet. You could also use two cabinets but personally I prefer the separate sinks. See if using cabinet "feet" work better than using a toekick.
-
I didn't have a lot of time to play with it but it looks to me like the upper portion of the wall is being built automatically by Chief. They look like they are aligned properly but it looks like it is too long by the thickness of the drywall. If you turn on the reference display in plan view you should be able to see how the walls are lined up but stick out past the lower ones. This might actually be a bug because I can't think of a reason why the program would do this so you might want to send it in. You might be able to get around the problem by manually editing the wall. Not sure if you have to do anything else so it doesn't get rebuilt though. There might be other ways to solve it so maybe someone else has some good ideas.
-
Have you tried using the "align with floor below" tool for the the wall on the 2nd floor? If this doesn't show or doesn't fix the problem, you should post the plan.
-
Have you tried changing the "schedule number start"? It's under "labels" when you open the schedule.
-
Don't forget that the delete objects tool will let you choose "single room" and then you can just click inside any room to only delete stuff for that room instead of the whole plan. You can only do this while the dialog is still open so it works a bit different then most of the other dialogs.
-
You could make a custom door symbol that has the lock built in. Just place the door you want in a blank plan, Then place the lock you want and position it where you want. Now convert the whole thing into a new cabinet door symbol.
-
Can you see them in plan view? If you can't see them, then maybe the layer is turned off or you are using a bad line style or color. If you can see them, then maybe the layer is locked. The other problem I have run into is that I sometimes have to zoom in and click exactly in the center instead of just clicking on anything else you can see. Another way of getting rid of them is using the "delete objects" tool. This will let you delete all of them at once, or just for a single floor, or just for any room you want. If none of this helps, then you might need to post the plan.
-
I think all you need to do is go to the floor below and delete it using the "delete current floor" tool.
-
My favorite Tiger is a '67.
-
Sloped how? Your fascia will be sloped on a gable end and you can also set your eaves to be "square cut" instead of "plumb cut" but I am guessing that you want something else. Maybe post a picture of what you are trying to do?
-
Frustration! Trying to use "Plan View" features without success.
DBCooper replied to contractcad's topic in General Q & A
If you change the display in one view and another view changes than that almost always means that they are using the same "saved plan view" or same "layer set". Here are some training materials that might help: https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/watch/2421/saved-plan-views.html https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-03185/understanding-saved-plan-views.html -
Maybe not way back in the dark ages of X5. Might need to just change your screen resolution to something smaller.
-
How to fill two rooms with one floor pattern continuously?
DBCooper replied to KirillP's topic in General Q & A
You could try this: - Select one room. - Use the "expand room polyline tool". - Use the "make room polyline tool". - Use the "convert polyline" tool. - Make it a "material region". It should have a continuous material/pattern. You can adjust the material properties if you want to change the angle or offsets.