DBCooper

You might want to check out these: https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/watch/281/creating-sun-study-animations.html https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-01001/using-the-sun-angle-tool.html

Don't change the setting in the wall dialog. If you already did, then go and set them all back to "use default". Then you can change the setting in the saved plan view dialog.

Probably really easy to figure out with a plan. Without, I would look for anything that can cause a floor/ceiling change, such as floor/ceiling heights or structure changes. This causes the program to build them separately and the tray ceiling doesn't like to span these breaks. One thing I like to try is to select all of the rooms involved and then look for anything that is marked as "no change" in the room dialog. Another thing you can do is use the match properties tool to see if all the rooms next to you actually have the same properties.

I think your assumption is wrong. The only way to "lock" a wall is to lock the layer. All this does is prevent you from accidently selecting it and moving it yourself. As far as I know, there is nothing you can do to keep the program from changing a wall when it thinks it needs to. People have been asking for this for as long as I can remember but personally I have run into very few cases where I have ever wished I had this. Most of the time it's just a matter of learning how to use the program and all of its complicated (and sometimes weird) rules. I did not look at your plan (because you did not post one) but if you drag a wall on top of another one, the program can replace the existing wall with the one you moved. In many cases this can be really handy but sometimes it is not what you want. In your case, it sounds like you are trying to bump an interior wall up against a foundation wall. Like the others have said, you might want to make sure you have the "furred wall" option turned on. You might also want to make sure you are working with bumping turned on as well. If your bumping is off, it is really easy to put one wall on top of another one which can cause it to replace the other one. You might also want to fix the problem with warning sign. If one of your walls is off angle, this can lead to all kinds of strange problems. Your picture is too small to see the details but I can't imagine that what you have done is what you really want.

It might be because Chief thinks it is too deep. See this recent post:

Try turning off "flatten pad" and then lower the terrain to about -10'.

That tile picture probably won't look very good unless you first edit it in an image editor (like photoshop). The pattern doesn't repeat correctly and it doesn't have even shading which is going to show a subtle seam. You might be able to make it look a lot better by just cropping the top/bottom so it at least repeats better. You might also want to look for something in the material libraries that looks close enough. Not sure if you can make one using the new "material builder" but it might be worth looking into. Here are some videos that might help: https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/watch/10145/creating-custom-tile-materials.html https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/watch/10301/custom-tile-materials-new-material-builder.html

Gene's solution is how you had to do it in older versions. You don't need to mess with the 3D data anymore. Under "options", you already have "inserts into countertop", now all you need to do is set the "vertical offset" to something more appropriate, like -3". You have it set to float 2" above the countertop currently.

See if this tech article helps: https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-00797/creating-a-soldier-course.html

Yes, but you will need to get the X8 desktop viewer to convert them. Here is a tech article that should help: https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-00279/opening-legacy-files.html

Editing the face of a poly solid in multiple elevations can get a bit funky. You might have better luck using the subtraction tool instead. Another way to create a tapered leg like that is by using moldings. If you use something like a soffit or countertop, you can add a molding profile to create the wider parts instead of cutting away the narrower parts.

Robert is correct that you can't get the beam label to display on top of the joists since the beam is under the joists. Labels always display in the same drawing level that the owner object displays. You could rotate it 90 degrees but TBH I would probably just create manual text for this case. Your picture still looks like your beam label is transparent though. Not sure how you are getting that if you unchecked "transparent" for the label text style.

It is true for me. See the picture I added to my post above. You should probably post a picture of what you have and what you want. Or even better, your plan.

I *think* all object labels are filled or not filled based on the text style used for the label. Try turning off "transparent" for the text style to see if this gives you what you want. Framing label that has text style with "transparent" unchecked and "border" turned on:

Have you tried using "post to beam" with a library newel post?

Are the section view and the perspective view from the same plan? Or is the section just a detail? Normally, they should match so that doesn't make sense to me. Is it 7" to the top of the rafter? Maybe Chief it trimming it automatically so it won't poke through the roofing? These are just guesses. You could try posting the plan for someone to take a look at.

Did you build the framing? Framing will only show up in framing overviews after you build it and it doesn't get built with the walls/floors/ceilings. It is possible to setup the program to build the framing automatically but the default OOB settings have this turned off. Turning on auto rebuild framing can also cause some lag if you have a complicated plan so personally I only build it when I need it.

YES. It only takes me a few seconds so I really wouldn't be able to even guess why it would take 10+ minutes. You should probably contact tech support on Monday.

Have you tried using the "interior template" to start your new plans?

It looks like if you pull the mullion in too far you will get a hole in your wall when you don't have any casing. You could try doing something lame like turning the casing back on and making it only 1/16" wide but this might give you a double line that you may not like. Others may know some better work-arounds but you might want to post the plan for them to play with though.

When you block windows, Chief will put in an extra piece between them that it calls a "mullion". You can control how much it sticks out (or recesses) by opening the mulled unit dialog and changing the "mullion depth". I *think* it will always use the same material as the casing.

You should start here: https://www.chiefarchitect.com/products/sysreq.html Personally, I would make sure you have something better than the minimum system requirements and if you are thinking about buying new hardware I would read this blog: https://www.chiefarchitect.com/blog/computer-for-design-and-gaming/

Seems to be a bit flaky to me. I was noticing that they changed depending on my camera angle. I was able to get better results by going to the label page and checking "show in this view" to force them on. Not sure if they work different depending on the render technique though.

I am guessing that you are using a cross section slider. As far as I can tell, any labels outside of the cutting plane will also get cut out. Could also be a problem with what side of the wall you are looking at. I have noticed that window and door labels will only show up on one side of a wall by default. Haven't played around with it enough yet to see if there is a way to control this though.

You can turn off the automatic behavior in preferences. Look under "architectural" for "show room label".