DBCooper

Welcome to the forum. So it usually works better to post pictures that were either exported directly from the program are that were done with a screen capture (print screen on windows machines) instead of using a camera to take a picture of the screen. Also, when people suggest you post a plan, they mean to attach a ".plan" file directly to the forum. Most plan files are too big though so you have to do things like make a ".zip" file instead. Sometimes you need to make a copy of the plan and remove things that don't have anything to do with the problem. And if none of that works, you can post it on the cloud somewhere and then include a link in your post. One gotcha that people run into is that you should not have the plan open in the program when you do try to do this because the file that gets attached might be empty. That said, I think Jason's post above might help you solve your problem. You might be able to select the wall in between the sun room and vaulted room and set the roof eave to something small. If that is not working for you, then I would try posting the plan so someone can poke around in it.

So Home Designer actually has a separate user forum you can find here: https://hometalk.chiefarchitect.com/ Since it is using the same engine that Chief is using, I think you need to turn off the crown molding in the room dialog rather than the wall dialog. Turning off room definition will just make your wall act like it is not a wall so that you won't get a room.

Well technically, George didn't ask about code. He only asked why his landings didn't pick up the stair settings. Mark gave him the right answer. Apparently, Chief doesn't like having landings stacked on top of each other. It only likes landings butted up to each other. See the picture below showing stacked landings vs. butted landings. It would be nice if stacked landings worked automatically but you probably need to send Chief a feature request if you want that to change.

If you have a wall in the library, all you need to do is to click on it and then draw it in your plan. It should automatically import the wall type.

It works for me. As long as the landing is connected to the stair, it should pick up the settings from the stair. Not sure why it doesn't work for you so you might want to post your plan.

Maybe the program thinks those railings make a "double wall"? Try setting the gate to "not through".

Sorry, I am all out of guesses.

Did you originally place the door on the floor above and then drag it down? If so, then delete it and place a new one on the right floor. If not, then post the plan.

Depends on the height of the man door. If it is above the foundation wall, it won't show an opening in the foundation plan. If that's not the problem, then post the plan like Shane says.

The problem is the middle soffit sections. They seem to be connecting to the edge ones and making some bogus filler surfaces. You could make them out of something other than soffits, such as polyline solids or counter tops. I found if I took them and converted them into architectural blocks (each block with only one soffit and you do this by holding down the shift key when you select it) that it disabled this strange behavior. Seems like you shouldn't need to do this though so you might want to report this to Chief. You can also turn off all of the automatic fillers in your general cabinet defaults but this will turn off the fillers in between the edge soffits as well and I don't know if you want those or not.

Soffits (and cabinets) can do weird things when they overlap. In the lower left picture above, it looks like that is what you did. See if butting them up to each other solves the problems. Sometimes just flipping a soffit around can solve some of the issues. You can tell where the front is because you should see an arrow indicator when you select it. If neither of these help, then I recommend posting the plan.

In the picture below, I used a clipped cabinet box corner for the cabinet on the left and a separate angled front cabinet for the filler on the right. Either way should work but the angled front filler has an advantage if the angle needs to be something other than 45 degrees.

I think that is just the way that Chief handles the toe kick for all of the corner cabinets. With an L-shaped corner cabinet (or filler), they probably don't need to do this but for a diagonal front I think they want to extend the side toe kick to keep the diagonal front at the same depth without having a jog. There are a few things you can do if you really want to change this. One thing you can do is to make the corner cabinet an "architectural block" (by clicking on it while holding the shift key down). This prevents the side cabinets from connecting to it and extending the toe kick. It will have other side effects though so you will have to use a custom counter top and you might want to check whether or not your sides are marked as finished (if you care) and you might have to muck around with the arch block if you need to see it show up as a corner filler in the material list or schedule. Another thing you could do is build the corner filler by itself and convert it into a symbol object. This pretty much has all of the same side effects as the architectural block though. Another thing you could do is to remove the toe kicks from the cabinets, raise them up, and then build the toe kicks manually.

As far as I know, the only way to make that happen is to manually edit the wall top. The fix then is to open the wall dialog and check the box for "default wall top". If you are somehow getting a wall to do this automatically, you really need to post the plan because I have never seen the program do that.

Have you tried just typing in "+ 3/16" to both sides?