DBCooper

Members
  • Posts

    2401
  • Joined

Everything posted by DBCooper

  1. X18 now uses the same size handle for room labels that it does for all other labels. If you change your preferences, all of your edit handles will be larger, not just the label move handle. Try using the new "edit label" tool instead. This puts you into a new mode where you will get a bunch of new edit tools related to labels. It will also make the move handle for the label the same size as all of the other move handles.
  2. Pretty much the same solution as for Christi. You use "customize toolbars" to add the "change floor/reference" button back to your toolbar.
  3. In older versions, to prevent walls from merging, all you need to do is change one of the main wall settings. Changing the height will work, but it can mess up the model. Changing the wall layer or wall type should also work.
  4. Try looking at the framing using a framing overview. If all you want to see is the roof framing, then you can turn off everything but the roof framing. Can't tell from your picture whether those are rafters or trusses. You can always select one and look at what the status bar says. The framing view will also tell you. Not sure why your framing does not look right in plan view. Maybe you are not showing all of the framing or you didn't rebuild the framing after making other changes? Maybe some of your settings are wonky? Too many things to make any good guesses. Chief has a pretty good video series that covers most of the framing basics here: https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/#playlist-93
  5. Nothing is ever going to be "ideal", even using AI. If you really want to learn how to get better results with the built in PBR, then you should check out the video series that Scott posted: https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/playlists/103/ray-trace.html You might also want to check out this video as well: https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/watch/10281/3d-rendering-for-interiors.html?playlist=152 As for the shading problem in your picture, my guess is that it is coming from your backdrop and you can try turning down the daytime intensity to lessen the effect.
  6. You can probably get what you want by mucking around with the casing width/reveal but at some point it might be easier to just place the window close and then set the exact position using your dimensions. Basically, there is no default setting that allows you to place a window or door an exact distance from a wall corner so you might want to send in a feature request for this: https://chieftalk.chiefarchitect.com/forum/8-suggestions/
  7. If you copy a window or door from an exterior wall to an interior wall (or vice versa), you might also want to change the option for "interior door" or "exterior door". This is a new thing in X18 and in prior versions you couldn't change it.
  8. This tech article is about how to make a custom door panel. You can use the same technique to make a cabinet door or drawer panel instead. https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-01808/creating-a-custom-door.html
  9. Try placing the light inside the room while in a plan view and then drag it out to the soffit area. You might also need to manually set the height if it is too high/low.
  10. I think it has always worked this way. I know I have run into it with cabinet soffits when I used to use them all the time before we had polyline solids. You could also try turning off "create auto fillers for angled connections" In the general cabinet defaults. This will turn it off for everything in the plan though which you may or may not care about. Another old trick you can do is shift-select one of the shelves and make it into an architectural block. This will prevent it from attaching to any shelves outside of the block.
  11. The only way you can export your user library directly from Chief is as a calibz type file. If you want to convert your library objects into dwg/dxf files, you need to do that from either a plan view or camera view (depending on whether you want 2D or 3D data). Depending on the types of objects you want to convert, this could also be very "lossy". There may be some ways you can automate this (using scripts or maybe even ai) but you will probably have to jump through some hoops. So this begs the question, why?
  12. It's either a layer problem (deck support is there but not displaying), a problem with the deck room structure (not setup properly to build the planks and joists), a bug in the program (maybe related to decks on different floors overlapping?), or something else. If you want better guesses, then you should post the plan.
  13. Did you see Chief's blog with tips about what to buy? https://www.chiefarchitect.com/blog/computer-for-design-and-gaming/
  14. Make sure that all 3 bottom windows have the same top and bottom heights and same elevation reference. You should be able to mull the 3 of them together. Make sure that all 3 top windows have the same bottom heights and are in the same wall as the bottom windows (not in the attic wall). You should be able to mull the 3 of them together. Now you should be able to mull the top mulled unit with the bottom mulled unit making a "nested" mulled unit. I this still doesn't work, post your plan.
  15. I am stumped as well. It looks like even though your terrain has "hide terrain intersected by building" turned off it is still generating a terrain hole for some reason. I would send it into tech support and have them look into it.
  16. That doesn't always solve the problem if you have a stepped or multi-level foundation. It's still good to know how to convert the automatic hole into a manual one and then edit as needed.
  17. When you select the terrain and use the "make terrain hole around building", it should automatically turn off "hide terrain intersected by building". If it's not off, then turn it off otherwise the program will keep cutting out where it thinks the building is. You want it to just use your manual hole instead. You can probably keep auto rebuild on otherwise you won't know there is a problem until you rebuild the terrain manually.
  18. Which means that you should have the "auto place corner boards" tool but you won't be able to show them recessed to the sheathing. You can either manually draw them in, add a note or detail to your plans, or upgrade to X18.
  19. It's pretty easy to remove the panel from a simple frame and panel drawer front. Just place a drawer front with a panel into a plan. Create a camera view and use the "delete surface" tool to remove all panel surfaces. Now select it and use the "convert to symbol" tool. Make sure to make it into a "cabinet door/drawer panel" and check the option for "treat as drawer panel" in the dialog. You could also just build one from scratch using polyline solids or any number of other tools.
  20. As far as I can tell, an electrical outlet will not change if you move it from an interior wall to an exterior one. When you place an outlet using one of the outlet tools, it should place the appropriate one based on where you click depending on how you have set up your electrical defaults. My guess is that you are using a plan with some goofy electrical defaults since your interior and exterior outlets are using different fonts. Either that, or you placed one from the library, or copied one from a different plan, or maybe something else. If you are using the OOB template, the exterior and interior outlets should both be set to use "Chief Blueprint". The text that is shown for the outlets is usually controlled by the cad block it is using. If you want them to use something else, then try this: - select the outlet in a plan view - use the "edit cad block" tool - select the text and open the text dialog - change the font to whatever you want and then click ok - when you close the cad block window, it will ask you if you want to save it and then you will want to update "all instances" You should only need to do this once for each outlet type because if all of your outlets are using the same cad block then they should all be updated. As far as I know, Chief has pretty much always worked this way. It's just been much easier to change once they added the "edit cad block" tool. Before then, it just took some more work to find and change the cad block that was being used.
  21. You can try using the "auto place corner boards" tool. It should place a corner board at most of the exterior corners and if it misses any you can just drop them in manually. I wouldn't bother doing this until the floor plan is pretty close to done though. You might also need to edit the top and bottom heights manually in some situations but X18 seems to do a better job than the older versions. In X18, you can also set the corner board to be recessed to the sheathing but you can't do that in any of the earlier versions:
  22. What you want is a different row height for the wall data rows than for the title/header rows. Since you don't really have separate control over the row heights, your workaround is probably fine. Another workaround that might be easier would be to copy the schedule and turn off the walls in the first one so it just has the title and headers. Then turn off the title and headers in the second one so it just has the wall data. Then you can adjust the row size of the second one using your top/bottom margins and stack them one over the other. In the picture below, I left a gap between them to make it clear that they are two schedules:
  23. See if this helps: https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-00119/automatically-creating-a-saltbox-roof.html
  24. Did you draw them in the layout or in the plan? Generally, I like to draw all my notations in the plan and not in the layout. I am guessing that you drew them in the layout. Maybe your arrows are snapping to things, like the side of the layout box or something else on the layout that you don't want them to. You could try opening them up and turning off "attach heads to other objects" and "attach tails to other objects". That should prevent them from snapping to anything else and moving around. If that doesn't help, you might need to post your plan and layout.
  25. Is your stair against a wall? As far as I can tell, they only do something when the stair is against a wall.