Kbird1

Some weirdness going on in your plan , but the 2x6 double bottom plate is there as you spec'd it in the Foundation defaults (sill) instead of a 2x4 to go with the 2x4 walls. I see a concrete footing and wall in perspective view , but display options says there is no Foundation to display and in framing overview it is totally gone , you can make the floor slab show by checking the Floor surfaces display layer................ ok found it , you have Walls>Foundation Turned off in the Display options (along with the floor surface for the 3D view) your Foundation wall is only 4" wide , typically a 8" foundation wall is required, but I thought you said the Pour had to be Monolithic? do they mean a monolithic Slab on Grade (raft foundation) which doesn't usually require a Curb or do they still want a Curb? on the Slab as well.

if you change the Header Measurement on the Framing DBX for 2x12 to 95" both garage doors will get 2x12 , you can't simulate the 1/2"ply in between but you could make the Headers 1 3/4" each same as An LVL or Microlam Beam. Haven't looked at the plan yet.

check this KB , it's known as Z-fighting, search that on the forum and you will get a number of hits check the section on accommodating large terrains , set to 300 has helped me before I have seen it mentioned to make the Roofing material thicker as well , or changing the OSB/Ply to the same colour may help. http://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-00107/0/Troubleshooting-Why-Materials-Appear-to-Flicker-When-a-Camera-View-is-Rotated.html

I think what they are calling a ceiling tie is actually the Ceiling Joist , and in a garage one every second Rafter is probably fine since loads are low , however having seen your other post , with the vaulted Ceiling etc the minimum may not be sufficient since you are "weakening" the system by having the Ceiling at 10' on 8' high walls. 2x4 walls are fine , your beam is 2x 1 1/2 material and a layer of 1/2 ply ie 3/12 inches , stiffer the beam the better though for garage door motors pulling on it ,and I usually use double Cripples and Double studs to stiffen the door frame and give plenty of room for the garage door installer to attach his brackets. PS keep the concrete curb ( if you have one) back from the door opening so the installer can install his brackets properly. M.

it may have been possible to use the Road Tool and the Cul-de-sac Tool to make this , and then cut a hole in the Cul-de-sac too but I know Roads effect terrain different from Sidewalk too , not sure if you need Curbs or not either. M.

No sure why you are getting that message , usually if you keep the it inside the drywall you don't get it ..........post your plan if you have further issues so we can look at it as we will only be guessing otherwise. you may need to set a Framing reference line to get the Ceiling joists and Rafters to touch rather than intersect each other, however this roof will look different again if you plan to use Trusses and not Hand Cut it. not usually a good idea to have the Slab at grade , too much chance or water runoff running under the door and inside, typically the slab, here at least, slopes 3" front to back to force water/snow to drain to the door off wet cars etc too. (probably not the case there if they are insisting on a monolithic Pour ( ie poured all at once) as the slope would be more difficult to do.) What your Village calls a grade beam (common term is some areas) is the footing and would typically be 10" thick X 20" wide here M.

your garage must be wider than it is deep for the auto framing to put the ceiling joists that way , so you will need to force the direction with a Joist direction line (under framing icon), run side to side. one way to do the rest..... (took longer to write than do btw .....) Then in the Garage Room DBX , turn off the Ceiling and rebuild the Roof (and Framing if not Auto) Then Turn off Auto Roof Rebuild if on ? Then Open the Garage Room DBX again and Turn the ceiling back on and above that set the Height of the Rough Ceiling as desired ..eg 120" instead of 96. Rebuild the Framing again if not on Auto and you should be done. If you rebuild the Roof again for some reason , you need to do this again , so don't do it till the Roof is finalised. PS DBX is forum shorthand for Dialog Box

Perry , just a heads up , the Jumplists Mark mentioned work , but I know ,like me you use CCleaner and after running it this morning the Jumplists are all empty , so you might want to disable that in CCleaner too. M.

" I wish there were better ways to track where chief it putting certain materials so you could make sense of a take off. BOY...in an ideal world, you could click on a line of the material take-off and it would highlight those materials in the plan (either floor plan or even better 3d framing views). It is just hard to put too much confidence in the numbers you are getting, especially as the project grows in size. Anyone have any good tips they use.... Here are a few recent take-off sheets I have done with a mix of manual and auto calcs." +1 on those sentiments , I bought into Chief to make use of the ML as much as for the 3D etc but find , I don't / can't trust it so end up doing a manual takeoff anyway , it would be interesting to hear your thoughts on Planswift for Takeoffs and how Chief's ML compares to it on the same plan. thx, M.

Yep I noticed that , just thought you were unknowingly making your test files larger than needed with images imbedded in you Template plan.

think the other two were just cos I don't have the same bonus/manufacturer libs. installed. these two seem to be from different Clients/plans though.

not sure then , but I have never seen 2 Temp dims show up like in your plan either , one in Ft and one in inches ( ****edit see below) perhaps has something to do with what Annoset you are using and something is over-riding? if I switch to the Default Set,+using Active Defaults the Temp dim works as expected showing 18'5" EDIT: ahhhhh..... not sure why but in your orig. plan when I click on that wall the MANUAL dims show up (found them on the default set) , usually Temp Dims wont show if a manual dim is already there , deleting the two dims out of the default set view and going back to the E Remod Frame set allows the Temp dim to work as expected. ( could turn on manual dims in the e remod frame layerset too)

I see you posted a 2nd vid , while I was "playing" , looks like you got it sorted out. I guess you use a template plan?, not sure if it has some "lost" images on it as when I opened your test plan it asked where some files from a project called Hoover , a siteplan .tif and something else.png , I can close chief and try it again if you need the exact names. M.

Little strange as you found out too , even with the steel I beams spec'd all the materials stayed Wood , but it was easy enough to change the material to "Iron Rough" on those 3 joists in the 3d framing view , if fact I'm not sure you need that setting , looks like you need to go in and change it out to steel anyway. are your 2nd floor joists really 5 1/2" ? or should they be 9 1/2" too? Have a good Sat. M

Does the Rim Joist Setting in the Building Framing DBX not work Larry ? think you'd need the Joists to be steel too ? or Does Chief call all edges of a deck a Rim? haven't tried it but know it's there.... edit ** I guess if you used that though you'd have steel I-beams for all the Rims on that level right? PS if you grab the 3dPolyline for the 2nd floor you can pull it down at the deck to fill the holes each side

Didn't open you plan Mark cos I think you are talking about this Setting:

Thx Mark , gonna try your suggestions too , I had forgotten about Jumplists

Nothing on removable media or networked Disks for me either

I think Joe might be right about wall issues, it looks like the same/similar issue as in a post from last week by Jay6390 that I ended up fixing for Jay off forum and it was a total PITA to make look right as the wall wouldn't heal itself / cover the studs etc after it was cut back to the stair stringer in an elevation view and I added the Crown molding drop.... perhaps I missed a setting or something to get the drywall to recover the studs somehow ? though I thought this was AUTO if inside a room with definition? Jay's original thread https://chieftalk.chiefarchitect.com/index.php?/topic/5123-false-wall-to-cover-stairs/

there was some weirdness in Open below Rooms , especially moldings in X6 , but I thought they fixed that in one of the Updates?

Like Perry I use this feature everyday too , so wonder if there are any options? does it make any difference if shown in a menu or not ?

haven't seen that myself , is X6 updated to the latest version ? and your Video Drivers?

I usually get the model from Trimble , and their library is way bigger these days but often find Chief can't import the SU Texture , ie no chrome or Stainless etc. ( not that I can't fix it of course) , and the model is frequently upside down or backwards ,doesn't recognise the wall etc eg the K8003 BodySpray.

Dennis maybe right , I have read a few threads with people with issues with AMD Cards and Chief , buying a Nvidia Card solved the issue , a forum search may find those threads , you might want to call TS today while they are open though and ask a few questions ,as I think Chief said they were working on a know issue but I am not sure I have seen this crashing issue reported before. M.

if it's important to you, set up a Dualboot with Xp and Win 8 ,so you can install version 10 in XP and have it work correctly.