Kbird1

Jing is free Michael and pretty easy to use , comes with 2GB account so plenty for this kind of thing. Download https://www.techsmith.com/jing.html FAQ's https://www.techsmith.com/tutorial-jing.html

Did you turn on the 'Z' layer Scott as Yusef "hinted" in his post when looking at his plan? he is using Ramps...

you could possibly stack and shape Landings to do it but I am unsure if that's possible in HDA ? landings yes but not sure if you have custom landings under the stair tool ? if yes , stack 7-8 boxes on top of each other and size and shape as needed http://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00870/71/Home-Designer/Stairs/Creating-a-Stair-Landing.html hometalk https://hometalk.chiefarchitect.com/

try reposting at Home Talk which is for the HD Series Titles as not many here will have Pro and be able to test it , or contact CS on Monday here https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/#contact HomeTalk https://hometalk.chiefarchitect.com/

I'm no expert either but one way is to make a copy of the Dal Tile Library item to your User Library , Rename it with XXX_Brick Pattern or ? then right click and open it , on the Pattern Tab set the Pattern Source to BRICK which will work for the Vector Views For Standard views you actually need a pic of the Tile in Brick Pattern AFAIK, so I had a quick ( very rough) play in MS Paint so you can see what to do or use this if it good enough. (save it to your textures folder.) You can't change the grout line in CA ,so it is actually a background I put down 1st in Paint, then added the 16 Tiles images over it with a small gap and then cropped it. on the Texture Tab in the same DBX above , you need to set the Scale to 72" and 72" (4Tiles x 4Tiles) for my Texture above. and in the Source texture box...... browse to the saved pic above ( or one you've made) and hit ok . Hit ok to close DBX , and apply to floor. and you should hopefully see this or easier since I already have it now ,download the calibz and install normally , though with some patience I'm sure you could make a better texture **edit I made the pic above smaller and cleaned up the grout lines a bit so this one might look a bit better. Dal Truffle SD93 Brick Pattern 2.calibz

You asked about Hardi Plank ( like Siding), not Hardi Panel , same material , different Product though, you are right about CertainTeed's panels , they are not true Panels. I have already asked in the Suggestions Forum for a True Hardi Library , so . you could add your vote for that there https://chieftalk.chiefarchitect.com/index.php?/topic/3529-add-a-james-hardi-panel-and-plank-library-please/?hl=hardi I actually did my last one the opposite way around, I made the wall black/brown ( colour of the Reveal ) and then made 4'x8'x5/16 thick material regions the colour I wanted, and multiple copied them at 48 3/4" (vertical panels) across the wall, though there maybe reasons for not doing it that way ? ( panels spec'd NOT to cut wall surface) similar to this

Boxon , do you mean Hardi Panel , as this thread is about or HardiPlank per your post? because there is the CertainTeed Library that has Fiber Cement Plank and some panels in it. some of the Hardi Colours Hardi Colours.zip M.

No , he means the Break line tool on the Edit tool bar , looks a bit like a Z with a line thru it.

It would be best to Ask over on Hometalk as Pro does not have the Features of Chief Architect and it's always a good idea to post the plan so people can have a look for you. https://hometalk.chiefarchitect.com/ this might help too, lots of articles in the Hometalk KB http://homedesigner.chiefarchitect.com/support/category/52/0/10/Home-Designer/Roofs/

It would be best to Ask over on Hometalk as Suite does not have the Features of Chief Architect and it's always a good idea to post the plan so people can have a look for you. https://hometalk.chiefarchitect.com/ this might help http://homedesigner.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-00718/30/Home-Designer/Foundations/Modeling-a-Sloping-Terrain-for-a-Walk-out-Basement-.html Other Terrain KB Articles http://homedesigner.chiefarchitect.com/support/category/72/0/10/Home-Designer/Terrain/

Have to agree with the Other's ....Impressive house I got the same broken wall as Dennis...looks like the "Room" is trying to get inside the wall pulled the wall back and forward's a few times and it sorted itself out , but other than that all looks well. edit: on the main floor the thick arched walls at 50110 and 56110 ,are ever so misaligned , 1/4" ? that I see in the wall paper mostly at 50110.

I think most people are going to say ...post the Plan, you can't find it and you have the plan so playing the guessing game is essentially a waste of time for everyone. M.

I think P. has confused the issue by asking about Square Footage when he really is asking how to set up his Temp. dimensions , or maybe it's me that's confused again.... You may need to change your Dimension setting too as NCC pointed out, "In the wall type definitions, you can specify what layer the dimension attaches to" as exteriors walls usually dimension to the exterior of the framing not the inside of the wall/drywall

At those prices I'd put them on 16" OC ( 2 extra?) to help eliminate ripples etc especially in the drywall (if you have it) and put a stud under each one even with the double top plate , this will also allow for straighter walls , if going with Fiber cement Panels as you suggested I usually use a double stud at each sheet joint too to give better nailing at the edges. (sheets Vertical) M.

A bug I guess cos CA divides the height evenly in each section ,perhaps make the top curved part separate ? ie 3 rectangular windows with a arched transom above?

was wondering why it worked when I moved the stairs back to the deck wall it's why I don't usually turn invisible walls off ....I forget they are there....

if you want to keep cost down and still have head height , just go with a Truss roof , flat ceiling and use 9' or even 10' high walls , perhaps 10 if a Workshop for the extra storage /ducting etc. Might want to consider 8' high doors too instead of the usual 7' M.

you would need a 8"-10" Foundation wall above the Slab, since the slab should be 2 inches or so above the highest point of the Lane or Road You didn't .... its a bug I think as Perry said in old versions but you didn't change the bottom plate to 2x4 in the foundation defaults , do that and in the Build Framing DBX under Wall set the bottom plate no# to 0 (zero) , with the Bug you still should get the 1 show up.

post the plan so someone can look at it for you, it's always the best idea and far quicker

yep a bit Wacky , I was almost going to give in and simply redraw it but should be close enough now to finish up.

played around with your plan in 10 and fixed things up ,I think? but you'll need to check the specs as I don't know your real heights etc did you by chance place your garage doors and windows etc BEFORE you made it a Garage Room and built the foundation ? in older versions it is always good to build the walls>roof>foundation and get all the structure right ,then start Detailing....windows/doors/stairs etc. M.

I agree , 16" max centres and you may need a structural RidgeBoard ,15x3 or perhaps deeper, since you want to raise the Ceiling off the plates , Engineered trusses might get you there too and of course the Truss engineer will do the engineering for you.

Some weirdness going on in your plan , but the 2x6 double bottom plate is there as you spec'd it in the Foundation defaults (sill) instead of a 2x4 to go with the 2x4 walls. I see a concrete footing and wall in perspective view , but display options says there is no Foundation to display and in framing overview it is totally gone , you can make the floor slab show by checking the Floor surfaces display layer................ ok found it , you have Walls>Foundation Turned off in the Display options (along with the floor surface for the 3D view) your Foundation wall is only 4" wide , typically a 8" foundation wall is required, but I thought you said the Pour had to be Monolithic? do they mean a monolithic Slab on Grade (raft foundation) which doesn't usually require a Curb or do they still want a Curb? on the Slab as well.

if you change the Header Measurement on the Framing DBX for 2x12 to 95" both garage doors will get 2x12 , you can't simulate the 1/2"ply in between but you could make the Headers 1 3/4" each same as An LVL or Microlam Beam. Haven't looked at the plan yet.

check this KB , it's known as Z-fighting, search that on the forum and you will get a number of hits check the section on accommodating large terrains , set to 300 has helped me before I have seen it mentioned to make the Roofing material thicker as well , or changing the OSB/Ply to the same colour may help. http://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-00107/0/Troubleshooting-Why-Materials-Appear-to-Flicker-When-a-Camera-View-is-Rotated.html