Kbird1

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Everything posted by Kbird1

  1. I didn't look at your Plan Scott so perhaps things are setup differently? , but I'll attach Alan's Revised Plan below, but perhaps I am not quite understanding your issue? I rebuilt the Roof Auto ,after setting the correct Full gable etc. then applied these settings and changed the Roof sheathing to whitewashed decking spun to 0° on the texture and Pattern. Blocking makes no diff. in Alan's plan at lest... M. Erinphries as built_R1.plan
  2. For a simple Roof like this Mike , I'd just let CA do it Auto, especially while you learn CA, as with the right settings it makes a perfect job , I didn't need to edit anything at all. Revised Plan below so you can check it out, hope this helps.... Ontario St Duplex_R1.plan
  3. Vids are always good , I still prefer the Jing ones people post ( no dealing with Youtube) but it is a great idea . Perhaps you should add a link Larry in your 1st Post for easy access .... is that allowed ? perhaps in your Sig. then....
  4. Let the auto roof build the roof instead of doing roof planes manually and see what happens. You could change Hotkey assignments to what you are familiar with since you are accustomed to ACAD. Always good to post the plan file if you need help , just too many things to check in dbx's (dialog boxes). M.
  5. Strange cos when I tested Glens tip ,after figuring out it was the depth setting of the gable fascia that needed to be 0" , it worked for me with no issues in Alan's Plan, didn't delete the blocking but may have set it to 0"x0" too. Will have a play when back at Computer.
  6. Actually if you don't mind quick and dirty Alan it can look ok if not 100% perfect like this : - Looks like you did the Roof Planes Manually , so I reset the Walls so I could play with the Auto Roof settings 1st , - then set the Roof blocking to 8 1/4 " ie 1 " more than rafter depth ( so there's no join line) and set them Vertical. - then I added a rafter on the end flush with the stucco and shortened it to the wall line - then with the Painter Tool painted the end Rafter I just made and the blocking with the wall Stucco. Edit : as you can tell I wasn't aware of Glenn's Tip either.... NICE looks better in Vector too. "Open the roof dbx and set the Gable Sub Fascia DEPTH to zero - it will probably default back to 1/16".
  7. Did I misunderstand the slopes in post #2 Ann ? I think you may have your understanding of Full Gable and Hi-Shed reversed ? the Hi-Shed setting should be at the High Endt of the Shed roof , with Full Gable on each wall running up to it So..... The high end of the Garden Room Roof should be over ......... ???? ( I was thinking not over the Dbl doors as it wouldn't be good to run all the water back to the garage Wall ) The high end of the Garage Roof should be over..... ???? ( I thought over the garage doors? ) PS what version of CA are you using?
  8. If you have only a few walls to do you can use the wall hatching tool for that, on the Build Walls menu. M.
  9. Once again thanks Joe. Point added
  10. Thx Bill , I see you and Curt have the Same idea , I had not thought of making a special wall type and drawing my own Attic walls in , but thanks to you as well for today's lesson.... use the "END" SETTING on TRUSSES ON THE END so they work properly... Doh ! got to remember to stop thinking how I do it on the Job and What CA needs to do it right.... I was thinking I should suggest that Reduced gables should automatically get End truss "features" but without the vertical webs but that's just how I see it done here, and is likely cos they charge more for end trusses only .....
  11. I think you are correct Dianne , I definitely recommend setting that Preference to On and am surprised that it isn't that way out of the Box (OOB) , can be frustrating otherwise , you need to click in the right spot and on angled walls it is a nightmare.
  12. Now you tell me where you been all afternoon why a reduced gable isn't also and end I don't know....
  13. I see now we have a Regional difference in how things are done ....saw it as soon as I opened your plan , we don't use end trusses here the Reduced gable truss is just that , and has no vertical webs and we just sheet over the Webs. As soon as you change the Reduced gable truss to be an END TRUSS the wall framing disappears... DOH ! and the lookouts connect properly..... apologies Curt....I assumed the Reduced gable would also be auto "End" since that is the only place to use one I am aware of ???? damn...sorry again for wasting your time. Mick.
  14. it's something simple you are doing I am not ..... let me look at your plan.... thanks ALOT on this appreciate it. no wall framing yet , only 1/2 trusses in Frame the wall and
  15. Room Dividers are invisible which is why you have no wall above the roof of the Garden Room , just run the exterior wall all the way thru with the Lower wall if butting Roof section set to interior wall 6 ( or whatever you want). This KB article should help you figure out what walls to break and the setting in each http://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-01020/52/Home-Designer/Roofs/Creating-Multiple-Shed-Roofs.html edit. : here's a pic that should help... Wall roof settings shown are FG=Full Gable, Hi = Hi Shed , clg= ceiling height
  16. I did check that Curt and it is ON , but perhaps I need to try a new plan , as my Practice plan maybe as confused as me , with all this checking and rebuilding framing etc. *** no same in new plan , so I think I am missing something , not you I either get the full gable wall or with the stop at ceiling setting on the wall, one the same height as the "raise above plate" measurement same as before . I thought perhaps like the Roof rafters the Gable Framing would be auto eliminated if a truss was placed there.
  17. Oops.....sorry Which Star Wars character do I feel like .... , I didn't think anyone was taking those seriously. M
  18. Thx Joe , always appreciate you posting these Macros for those of us who are Ruby Challenged. M.
  19. If doing As-Builts it can be helpful to set your Dimension defaults to Locate Surfaces instead of the wall Dimension Layer , you can also alter the default wall's definition ( or make a copy) so it dimensions to the exterior or interior surface instead of the Main Layer. CA defaults to the outside of the main Layer not the Center of the wall ,which you can see in Robert's pic and in any wall's definition> "dimension to this line setting"
  20. Thanks Bill , Got it now just needed to visualize what you were saying while looking at an elevation. other tips for further Readers... Make sure Trusses is checked in the Build Roof DBX and Until you build all your trusses you will have a small wall showing in elevation due to the 10" raise ( 6/12+ 24" overhang) and CA assuming Rafters till you MultiCopy the rest of your trusses , (see pic below) it then disappears after a rebuilt. Another question ....What is the correct placement of the reduced height gable Truss on a gable wall to Auto eliminate the Gable wall framing? I would assume behind the sheathing but I can't seem to find the sweet spot even with a framing rebuilt. thx.
  21. So if you play with the Top and Bottom Chord spacing you still don't get the vertical over the wall on the 40" trusses?, M
  22. Took me a while to notice the tape locking on "something" other than what I was clicking on too, just got to remember to toggle it back on.
  23. I would say your dims are setup wrong cos it works for me , are you using ' &" and have your smallest fraction etc set? all good? do you have Grid Snaps on and they are set to 1" , I find I need to turn them off for the Tape measure to work well. or are you just in the wrong annotation set ? eg Plot Plan
  24. Thx Curt, it is the Canted part I have issues with , energy heel etc works as expected, but checking the manual about this it mentioned editing the trusses manually if needed, so that was what I thought you had done , but there is no setting in the Raise/Lower box in your Plan so I wasn't sure. I assume you used Transform Replicate to raise all roof planes the req'd distance then ? I think it's a bit strange Canted isn't an option since "Canted" truss's are pretty Common. @Bill , thx....but I will need to play with a cross section so I can "compute" your information too " The cantilever and vertical strut at the wall top plate will generate if the heel height is adjusted so that the bottom most tip of the top chord, and bottom of the bottom chord are at approximately the same height." Thx Guys, M.
  25. ahhhhh, I didn't figure that out from your posts...hence two part answer but Larry looks as confused as me about what you said and what your pics show.