Kbird1

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Everything posted by Kbird1

  1. You saved CA original Bonus libraries to USB or you exported Libraries to USB and later Re-imported them? I have not seen any issue importing Direct downloaded CA Files going into the Wrong Library. Re-download them perhaps? Also, it's good to have your Forum Signature filled in, especially with the Software Version, and of course a real Name is nice too ..............see mine below in Blue for how to do that. If you don't see my Signature then you have them turned off for the Forum so you need to Toggle it on in UserName>Account >Signatures...... go to the Upper RH Corner of Forum Window. M.
  2. A Manual roof could be done but Invisible walls around the Lobby may give you the Roof all Auto too. You are probably on the right track for the Store Front Windows , you will likely need to set the Window Defaults Separation Value to 0" 1st though so you can bump each window upto the one next to it , a small thin Casing , maybe needed to cover the gaps due to the angles , I am not sure how Mulling the Windows will work in this particular case. M.
  3. I should of been Clearer....I think if you break the Internal walls (and delete the invisible walls) and pull them away from the exterior Walls so you get one Large T shaped Room and work back from there, it maybe doable. I started doing it in your plan but was finding a few issues with Wall definitions , no foundation etc , so I drew up my test plan to see if I was on the Right Track. M
  4. Creating the Foundation will Ensure it is built under the Whole Building , not just in the Room you have Checked for MonoSlab. there should be no need to use the foundation Check Mark in the Wall DBX in this particular case on any of the exterior Walls , marking interior walls load bearing should add a thickening under them too. Part of the Issue maybe that your wall definition has the main layer as a metal (zinc colour) but no framing type material assigned , the walls were a bit better to deal with after changing the main layer to Steel Stud 24" OC as the material. The invisible walls etc should not be needed , you also have so custom backsplash floating around in there ..... I did a test plan and drew all the exterior walls 1st , ( fallen over T Shape) , then extended the left to right walls through to the end and set the main part of the building to 196" , built the monoslab and built the roof , then turned off Auto Roof. Then in Overview or Elevation you can cut and raise the bottom of the walls you extended , so you end up with the T Shaped building with two different Ceiling heights, you can then add interior Walls as needed for the other Rooms eg the washrooms or sleeping area. maybe better ways but it looks okay..... here's my play plan.... MHD_Fire_House Test Plan.plan
  5. AFAIAA SSA is not transferable when License are transferred , and the transfer fee must be paid.
  6. JT is correct Bob , they are just "Off Angle Warnings" not "not connected all warnings".... right click yellow triangle and choose Ignore all off angle walls.... *** the middle wall however should be -90° that warning is correct it is -89° I also noticed the walls either side of the bump out don't line up, one is snapped to your grid on the exterior the other on the interior wall side, just wasn't sure if that is correct?. The walls just aren't drawn on the preset allowed angle is all
  7. I found the same thing and unchecking "foundation" on one of the walls cause my Computer to Crash , something that has not happened in over a year....very weird.... Earlier today while it the Library Chief picking an Exterior Door Chief just closed out of it's own accord and on restarting complained I had two instances running , Bob, your other plan of the Porch issue has no Foundation either , no sure if it is effecting that plan though ? strangely in that one when I built a Monoslab and then tried to rebuild a full 8ft basement it kept remembering the Monoslab on rebuild..... ** also I did a test plan for the screen porch and could not fill the wall to the sloped Ceiling either , so I sent it to Support to see if they can... M.
  8. There was some problems in X10 , with plans brought forward I think , where roof lines where extending too far into the wall layers causing holes in Walls as you are seeing. I thought they had addressed this though in one of the Updates.... M.
  9. There is a short 6min. video on using basic formulae but it does not get into Ruby at all..... https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/watch/2438/using-formuals-in-materials-lists.html?playlist=104
  10. Can you show an example as I am not aware of a way to turn an Image into a 3D Item ... lets say a Range .... an image is just a 2D flat photo of the Range , so how you are making it a Symbol ( 3D Item ) I am not sure.....you could see if the particular Manufacturer also has a Sketchup Library on 3D Warehouse , Chief can import those 3D files, though some are poorly made and cause Chief to slow down. Currently Chief does not import Revit Files unfortunately. M.
  11. Changing the Floor structure (Joist size) of the Room ( addition ) under the Structure Tab is the usual way....... However I have a feeling some of the Home Designer Titles have a limitation in that the Floor can only be 12" deep. You have actually Found the Chief Architect Premier Forum--ChiefTalk ( green Theme) the Home Designer Series is over On HomeTalk ( Blue Theme) they should be able to confirm my "feeling" about the 12" limitation if there is one , Pro may not have it?. Use the same password over there https://hometalk.chiefarchitect.com/?_fromLogin=1
  12. You need to label the walls "Balloon thru ceiling above" and rebuild the wall framing is all....
  13. Thanks Mark , looks nicely done...
  14. When I 1st tried the " Roof Cuts wall at the bottom" setting , it did not work properly the wall stuck out the Roof and only cut the curve above the Ceiling framing..... at 1st I thought it was just an Alignment with the ceiling plane issue, but that didnt fix it either, however I had not noticed even though the wall was drawn in the Attic that the Wall was not marked ATTIC Wall on the General Tab.....this fixed it all auto. M.
  15. Wouldn't it be better to slide the bolted bearing plate forward so the sheathing is in-line with the Steel flange and have the Siding/Trim hang past the top flange (1" ?) to help eliminate water penetration , even if it is protected by the overhang in some areas ....better to have the detail consistent around the building.
  16. Looks like Eric reshaped the bottom of the Attic Wall for you.... If you don't need to show Framing you can also take a back-clipped Cross section >CAD from View > reshape the Wall Polyline as needed, then Copy it > Paste / hold position, it back into the back clipped cross-section, convert to a polyline solid, and make it 3 1/2" thick and the material drywall. In plan view you may need to slide it back to your curved ceiling edge. PS you don't need the invisible wall , below is the Poly-solid way...
  17. they also call it a Cape Cod and there is a tutorial on how to do it... you can save the PDF under the Tools Menu if you want.... https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-00772/building-a-cape-cod-roof-by-adjusting-ceiling-heights.html
  18. If you have always worked with them off , you may have clicked the toggle icon on the RH Toolbar for Grid Snaps ( cross hatch with red circle dot ) Having them off is like working with the Ctrl Key always presses during a drag .... ie Ctrl over-rides the Grid snaps temporarily
  19. You're welcome , just make sure nothing is selected in Plan when you hit delete , you can also click , then hit space (to un-select) then Delete too. M.
  20. I was playing around with what Joe said above for my own knowledge , and then went back to Plan View thinking it would be easier to renumber them in Plan View and that was when I noticed after selecting a Window that we have the Move up or Down Schedule buttons on the Edit Toolbar..... not sure why I haven't noticed them before , but it should make things easier to number things in a Clockwise Fashion ( how my window guy does it) I think....
  21. Use the beam tool and just drag them wall to wall. Setup your Beam default sizes 1st under build framing. Once drawn you can move them up and down as needed either in 3D or elevation. https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-00457/creating-a-beam.html 3:25 into this video shows the process..... but worth watching it all I'd say... https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/watch/329/drawing-exposed-sloped-and-decorative-beams.html?playlist=147
  22. Not possible..... that's why we ask for Signatures to be done.....which I see you now have done....
  23. Your Plan seems to have a number of issues including the Roof not building over the main section of the Laundry , no time to dive into that now , so here is a quick Plan with the Settings and Materials done to look at..... Check the saved cameras 1st. M. MHD_Troy_Exposed Rafters Plan.plan
  24. Clicking a blank area in the Plan and hitting delete will also remove them.... might want to check the Preference hasn't been enabled (checked) if they are appearing by themselves too....