Kbird1

I don't usually unlock them , but in this case the roof isn't complete and I wanted to pull it around the Corner etc At the moment I am having major issues with 3D views not regenerating on there own after a change and have to keep using the Rebuild 3D button to see if my changes were correct , seems to have been happening all week in different plans , not limited to this one..... M.

Post the .plan File , I am sure people will have a play......probably better to ask/repost in the Q&A forum though for that.... Also, it's good to have your Forum Signature filled in, especially with the Software Version, if you are Using a Home Designer Title best to post over on HomeTalk rather than Chief Talk , as Chief USers would need to remember to Check the Box allowing you to Edit a Chief Plan. Of course a real Name is nice too ..............see mine below in Blue for how to do that. If you don't see my Signature then you have them turned off for the Forum so you need to Toggle it on in UserName>Account >Signatures...... go to the Upper RH Corner of Forum Window. M. M.

I did not need to rebuild the roof planes as far as I remember?, just checked the Gutter Box in each roof plane and was able to change the Default Gutter to your one.... M.

TS has confirmed that the Railing Walls will not work properly if the Ceiling is Sloped and we use a Post to Ceiling setting in the Railing Wall, Post to Beam may work as that causes the Attic wall to build on the gables but it won't be Screened but the normal siding instead. *** I am not sure if Steve's method works on Sloped Ceilings as his Video does not show that particular Case? I have another method ( Below ) but this is T.S. reply...... Thanks for contacting Technical Support. I tried several different methods to get this to work, but ultimately the issue is that the software does not have ability to cut the panels in the railing. So when we adjust the railing height to reach the roof line, the remainder will poke through the roof at the lower sections of it. While you could use the break wall tool to adjust multiple sections, the result then is that your center line is skewed with each section. Alternately, you could use a regular wall, and fill the area with windows altering the trim to create the look of your posts. Then the Glass can be painted with a Screen material as detailed in this article: https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-00747/creating-a-screen-porch.html Framing Material Method. It is a similar method to my Board and Batten and RainScreen Libraries where you add extra Framing Layers (and the Mesh to a new Wall Definition) , I abandoned using Railing Walls for the Screened Porch and just make sure to have Framing Built and Turned on in ALL Views..... The Rail at 36" can be added via Wall Blocking at the desired Height using the Wall Detail Window. Seems to work fine for the most part with a bit of manual reframing eg at the Corners. Plan : MHD_Screened Porch - Framing Material Method.plan Mick.

Yes, sorry forgot to mention your Roof Planes all have the Gutter check box Off..... I also unlocked the Gutters in Plan View ( on by default ) to manipulate the Auto Gutters as needed in my Plan. M.

Hi P. I had a play and copied your Gutter Profile via a CAD to View Detail , and it worked well , but are you sure of your sizes ? as it looks deeper than the Pic of the actual Gutter... Plot3V5_Gutter Profile.plan M.

Hi P. In CA, Gutters are actually Mouldings and do not need to be closed Polylines. When Drawing Mouldings for CA use, you ALWAYS start from the left Side and work to the Right ...essentially flip the Image above of your Gutter 180° , then CA will join them automatically. A CA Tutorial on Gutters : https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-00677/drawing-a-custom-gutter-molding-profile.html and https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-00824/editing-a-molding-profile.html

I think you could multiple the "count" x 1500 etc see if this helps https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/watch/2438/using-formuals-in-materials-lists.html?playlist=104

Wendy did a great tutorial Series a few years ago in the Tips Forum https://chieftalk.chiefarchitect.com/topic/6824-annotation-sets-wendys-oob-mods-and-instructions/?tab=comments#comment-78326 https://chieftalk.chiefarchitect.com/topic/6468-stream-of-stuff-from-wendy/ @WendyatArtform

That is how I do As-Built > Proposed > Final Drawings and have never seen that Issue..... No sure which version of Chief is Chief 10A though?

You saved CA original Bonus libraries to USB or you exported Libraries to USB and later Re-imported them? I have not seen any issue importing Direct downloaded CA Files going into the Wrong Library. Re-download them perhaps? Also, it's good to have your Forum Signature filled in, especially with the Software Version, and of course a real Name is nice too ..............see mine below in Blue for how to do that. If you don't see my Signature then you have them turned off for the Forum so you need to Toggle it on in UserName>Account >Signatures...... go to the Upper RH Corner of Forum Window. M.

A Manual roof could be done but Invisible walls around the Lobby may give you the Roof all Auto too. You are probably on the right track for the Store Front Windows , you will likely need to set the Window Defaults Separation Value to 0" 1st though so you can bump each window upto the one next to it , a small thin Casing , maybe needed to cover the gaps due to the angles , I am not sure how Mulling the Windows will work in this particular case. M.

I should of been Clearer....I think if you break the Internal walls (and delete the invisible walls) and pull them away from the exterior Walls so you get one Large T shaped Room and work back from there, it maybe doable. I started doing it in your plan but was finding a few issues with Wall definitions , no foundation etc , so I drew up my test plan to see if I was on the Right Track. M

Creating the Foundation will Ensure it is built under the Whole Building , not just in the Room you have Checked for MonoSlab. there should be no need to use the foundation Check Mark in the Wall DBX in this particular case on any of the exterior Walls , marking interior walls load bearing should add a thickening under them too. Part of the Issue maybe that your wall definition has the main layer as a metal (zinc colour) but no framing type material assigned , the walls were a bit better to deal with after changing the main layer to Steel Stud 24" OC as the material. The invisible walls etc should not be needed , you also have so custom backsplash floating around in there ..... I did a test plan and drew all the exterior walls 1st , ( fallen over T Shape) , then extended the left to right walls through to the end and set the main part of the building to 196" , built the monoslab and built the roof , then turned off Auto Roof. Then in Overview or Elevation you can cut and raise the bottom of the walls you extended , so you end up with the T Shaped building with two different Ceiling heights, you can then add interior Walls as needed for the other Rooms eg the washrooms or sleeping area. maybe better ways but it looks okay..... here's my play plan.... MHD_Fire_House Test Plan.plan

AFAIAA SSA is not transferable when License are transferred , and the transfer fee must be paid.

JT is correct Bob , they are just "Off Angle Warnings" not "not connected all warnings".... right click yellow triangle and choose Ignore all off angle walls.... *** the middle wall however should be -90° that warning is correct it is -89° I also noticed the walls either side of the bump out don't line up, one is snapped to your grid on the exterior the other on the interior wall side, just wasn't sure if that is correct?. The walls just aren't drawn on the preset allowed angle is all

I found the same thing and unchecking "foundation" on one of the walls cause my Computer to Crash , something that has not happened in over a year....very weird.... Earlier today while it the Library Chief picking an Exterior Door Chief just closed out of it's own accord and on restarting complained I had two instances running , Bob, your other plan of the Porch issue has no Foundation either , no sure if it is effecting that plan though ? strangely in that one when I built a Monoslab and then tried to rebuild a full 8ft basement it kept remembering the Monoslab on rebuild..... ** also I did a test plan for the screen porch and could not fill the wall to the sloped Ceiling either , so I sent it to Support to see if they can... M.

There was some problems in X10 , with plans brought forward I think , where roof lines where extending too far into the wall layers causing holes in Walls as you are seeing. I thought they had addressed this though in one of the Updates.... M.

There is a short 6min. video on using basic formulae but it does not get into Ruby at all..... https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/watch/2438/using-formuals-in-materials-lists.html?playlist=104

Can you show an example as I am not aware of a way to turn an Image into a 3D Item ... lets say a Range .... an image is just a 2D flat photo of the Range , so how you are making it a Symbol ( 3D Item ) I am not sure.....you could see if the particular Manufacturer also has a Sketchup Library on 3D Warehouse , Chief can import those 3D files, though some are poorly made and cause Chief to slow down. Currently Chief does not import Revit Files unfortunately. M.

Changing the Floor structure (Joist size) of the Room ( addition ) under the Structure Tab is the usual way....... However I have a feeling some of the Home Designer Titles have a limitation in that the Floor can only be 12" deep. You have actually Found the Chief Architect Premier Forum--ChiefTalk ( green Theme) the Home Designer Series is over On HomeTalk ( Blue Theme) they should be able to confirm my "feeling" about the 12" limitation if there is one , Pro may not have it?. Use the same password over there https://hometalk.chiefarchitect.com/?_fromLogin=1

You need to label the walls "Balloon thru ceiling above" and rebuild the wall framing is all....

Thanks Mark , looks nicely done...

When I 1st tried the " Roof Cuts wall at the bottom" setting , it did not work properly the wall stuck out the Roof and only cut the curve above the Ceiling framing..... at 1st I thought it was just an Alignment with the ceiling plane issue, but that didnt fix it either, however I had not noticed even though the wall was drawn in the Attic that the Wall was not marked ATTIC Wall on the General Tab.....this fixed it all auto. M.

Wouldn't it be better to slide the bolted bearing plate forward so the sheathing is in-line with the Steel flange and have the Siding/Trim hang past the top flange (1" ?) to help eliminate water penetration , even if it is protected by the overhang in some areas ....better to have the detail consistent around the building.