rgardner

Your foundation wall is trying to build through to the roof.

Just to add: In the cross section view if you want it to "slice away" more of the house and move what you see go to the plan file and move the cross-section camera so the line is where you want to see and it will automatically up date to that position.

You are right with the Wall cap that it would need to be added as a molding line to do this. That is the downside to using a panel instead of a solid wall but it is alot easier and more dynamic to place a molding line for that actual molding than to try to place in this example 6 polyline solids for the screen enclosure. It is surely not the only way to do it nor am I saying it is the best way to do it. I am just saying it is the method that I use for my screened porches (I do lots of plans in Michigan and Wisconsin where apparently the mosquitos are bigger than the birds.) It does allow to get everything as close as possible automatically with no polyline solids needed. The posts if you need them to model can be done a couple of ways. 1.) Use your manually placed posts from below and bring them to the underside of the beam or ceiling if using flush beams. or 2.) Bring the posts to the top of the pony wall height and align with the posts in the railing wall. These are just a couple of the ways that come to mind to accomplish it. I believe the OP was asking about showing the newel posts in plan view which is what I showed him in the response above. I was not saying that it would auto place the post through, or at least I did not mean to infer that. Hope this helps someone.

BTW this is set as a balcony room and I changed the structure to be a 2x10 pressure treated joist with a decking material.

Sorry was finishing up a deadline. This is what worked for me:

Yes Steve it is using a "pony wall" for the lower solid wall and a railing to beam or ceiling with panel for the screen portion. I usually use a 1/8" thick panel with the wire mesh as the material but Mick made a good suggestion of setting it to glass then using the mesh material so as to adjust the transparency.

I do them individually so they show as three lines and I only allow one of the labels to show but change it to say "(3) 2x10 Flush Beam". But I am sure some others may have some good suggestions in this regards.

Makes sense. To be honest I never use chiefs support for decks because I always end up manually placing any beams and posts/footings. I generally re-frame the deck anyways and just use the auto feature to put it in there initially until I am happy with it. That allows me to use double or triple 2x if I want or to set a flush beam and posts at corners instead.

Nice Trick! So you "paint" the wire mesh to the glass? And that allows you to set the transparency?

Not sure of this but the idea of making it a balcony room comes to mind and makes me think that it may fill it in below? Or possibly just a wall material region?

I do quite a few screen porches but we never do two sets of panels. I usually have a solid (sided) wall below then posts going up to a beam but the posts are hidden in the wall below so it is not modeled. To do that, I use the method Steve did above, however instead of using solid and painting it I use a 1/8" thick panel with the wire mesh as the material. Very clean.

Definitely comes in handy sometimes. Random example is I was working on a faux victorian style home and they wanted a decorative railing above a small non-parapet roof trim where putting an actual railing would not work correctly due to the actual roof placement. Distribution line and a molding line for the railing, quick and simple.

Just to clarify when you have the 'T' turned on the dimensions are not there till you select the wall correct? If this is the case then I am pretty sure what they are telling you about the layer being turned off is the case. Maybe turn your dimensions on and see if they look about the same location? Basic Example: No Manual dimensions placed at all w/ temporary dimension on: Manual Dimensions placed and layer turned on: Manual Dimension layer turned off: Temporary Dimensions Turned on but the dimension layer off which shows the manual dimensions which over-ride the temporary once placed because chief thinks there is a reason you set them where you did and it is the information you want to see:

No as far as I know I don't believe you can set it separately. I guess the procedure would have to be to go to any rooms you changed manually check them back to default, change your dynamic, then readjust those rooms. Kind of a pain but I am guessing there are many who do not change their balcony and deck heights either.

Glad it worked out. It seems to me that when you changed the balcony to -4 that would overide default floor height so would not change when you changed the dynamic default height. Either way glad it worked.

We’re the balconies set manually and not to default? By chance were the windows that went wonky also sharing the room that didn’t change?

Doesn't really help you right now but did you know Chief is giving a free webinar on this exact topic tomorrow? https://www.chiefarchitect.com/products/livedemo.html

Nothing to add to Erick’s great advice but love this part in conjunction to your profile pic!

Pretty sure I did this on a modern plan I worked on. If I remember right it worked fine. I believe the key was ballon frame the wall first and then you can mull them together.

@jbaehmer is local to you and a great technician with lots of experience if he is available.

May be something with those particular symbols. Not sure what. Would need the plan file as Joey mentions. But the two labels are identical so something is up. Maybe just the labels are set manually??

Try the Trey ceiling polyline tool in x12. The bottom portion of your ceiling would be your ceiling height (looks like 8') then you would recess the inner portion 4" up into ceiling.

Erick is right you should be looking for the solution in the Home talk forum, but I believe the method I use would work in hdpro as well. The process is called a CAD mask. 1.) First draw a poly line around the underground area but much wider and below where you will crop it when you send it to your layout page. 2.) Now draw the lines on top of the footings where you want to see dashed lines, and change the line style to dashed. 3.) Select the first poly line that you drew and change it to have a solid white or background fill. It will hide the foundation but since the other lines were drawn after it they will show as dashed lines. One point to make, it is also bad form to hijack others posts so please delete your post after reading this and I will do the same tomorrow so as to not derail this very helpful post for others. You have 24 hours and then this message will self destruct...

It is quite possibly the size of the file or if not that a driver. Have you tried printing to a pdf first at say 600 or better dpi then printing from your pdf viewer program to the printer? That is generally quite a bit faster anyways.

If you want to show the doors or drawers open there is an option. Select them and use the open door or open drawer button at the bottom. It only shows once you have selected a cabinet. It can also be done partially open in the DBX to show it only open a little bit with selecting the item you want and setting the amount it is open at the bottom in the Percent Open box. I usually leave them close but open up certain items like garbage/recycle centers slightly to see them as it feels like things get pretty crowded in plan view.