Gawdzira

I agree. This has been in the suggestions in the past. It should be there again, and again.

What are you sending to layout? The only things that can be sent at actual scale are vector view elevations and floor plans. The images that get sent to layout are resizable once in layout.

As far as your upgrading to x7 (or not) is concerned I have 2 things to say: 1. Fill transparency value 2. ALDO, the new layer dialogue box which makes it super easy and fast to either hide or lock out layers. Huge advantages

I just looked at the webinar videos available. It does not sound like your level of problems is something that would be covered in those videos. I plan on watching the terrain video next week and I will turn in some feedback on value.

And the award for the most vague post of the day goes to... Eh, it's early so stay tuned.

MD, glad that the light comments were not taken the wrong way. Good luck with your search.

Sounds like it would be faster to make custom muntins than write code for the double hung.

I use a pretty basic Kensington MO1129. Full sized mouse with the USB cable. I found the wireless to be too fickle. Nothing fancy in the settings. I don't even have the Kensington drivers. Mid range speed for the pointer speed seems to work for me. The mouse has 5 buttons but I don't use anything beyond left, right and the scroll wheel.

This comes up a lot when I am placing lights. I will draw a bunch of Cad lines for lighting locations. I try to snap to intersections but I only get the snap to "On Object" or on the line really close to the intersection. Is there a way to prioritize the snapping order so that the intersection will be the dominant snap if the intersection is close. Maybe my bump setting? I would like to not have to turn off the "On Object" but if that is the only way to make it happen it will have to become my workflow.

Continuous sheathing also makes the wall thickness consistent for window and door frame/casing build out

You can import the pdf to use as a background image and then make modifications graphically and mask out the image. But, with a house that size and some basic knowledge of CA you might be better off drawing the house in CA so you have a full useable 3d model.

1. Do not scale drawings. I still have this on my general notes. This is the most ignored note and is really a throw back to hand drawn plans and ammonia blue prints that would often stretch slightly. But still, if there is a dimension that is needed to build the project I put the dimension on the plan. The other (blank dimension zone) is the remainder. Besides, printing is often failed by the pdf printed with a "Fit" factor. I have a section on my title page with "Code Notes" that are fairly universal for California and this is where I add in the ridiculous notes required on the first plan check. I do divide out my Electrical notes on the electrical page and put specific plumbing notes on the floor plan page. I do a fair amount of redundant notes within the plan so even though I have stated it on the title page I point to it with a note on the area where the actual item is located. This is the case for things like shower enclosures, toilet clearances, dryer venting...

Besides the burn rate, I have avoided using I Joists in crawl spaces due to potential moisture issues.

Does Home Depot have a store in Mumbai?

If you are on a tight budget look into O.V.E. framing. Optimum Value Engineering. It will save about 30% of the framing material budget. Also, with 9' plate you can get plywood in 4'x9' or 4'x10' sheets at a lumber yard.

Why do so many people shun engineers? Engineers are your friend. Engineers know lot's of stuff about engineering, gravity and making sure people in and near buildings stay not dead.

I work solo as many of us do. I consider this forum my studio environment in the sense of a community similar to a larger office or the architectural school studio. In architecture school the studio is a place of learning where you could walk by someones desk and open up a conversation based on what you are seeing that could help you reshape your thoughts on your own design. Copying, of course people will copy. None of us create. We are all copying from Wright, Palladius, Corbu, Eichler, Graves, Sullivan, Saarinen(s), Stickler... In the words of the best professor one could ever have as a young architecture student (Konrad Von Appen), "if you are going to copy someone, copy someone good". I have posted file after file on this forum. If someone uses my(?) design or details from my construction docs I don't really care. To copyright a house design is almost impossible if one or two small aspects are changed. Does anyone really think they have come up with a kitchen layout that is somehow unique? Does your latest fenestration pattern change the rotation of the moon? There are some great designers and drafters sharing on this forum. There are also a lot that are not so great. There are also a lot that appear to have very little training in design. But being early in your learning stage is a great place to be. If you are humble and honest in your experience there are many on this forum who can offer valuable critique if you ask for it. Actually, many times you don't have to ask for it and it comes anyways. Design can be very subjective and therefore you will need to filter comments as some may not sit well but even those could hold a lot of value if viewed with an open mind. Oh, back to the original poster, zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz.

Barry is my hero. Fast, good and good (and very good prices).

Greg et al. Yes, that is the way "we" have always done it. The time has come to learn the new building science and with 2020 approaching fast "you" will have to learn how to deal with the thermal bridge. Unless you are insulating outside of your sheathing (which might be the best solution to achieve a moisture free wall) you will need to frame corners the way CA is doing it. Even though I am in a mild climate I am training each framer on my jobs to learn methods that come from OVE framing good sense technique to deal with a complete insulation envelope. Heck, OVE framing will save you at least 30% of your lumber if it is fully implemented. That is a lot less nails, nailing, cutting, carrying, waste...and money out of your pocket (if you are the builder). My favorite comment from the buyer of my last spec project, "this house is really quiet". Tight complete envelope.

Rotating all of my text is the last thing that I want to do. See image relating to what I am doing.

Reflected Ceiling Plan (sometimes).

Residual Cheese Powder (of course).

Thanks.

Joe, did you manually move the label to the outside of the wall? Mine is defaulting to the center of the wall.

Very nice. I have never used the wall labels but see how this would add a nice value to their usefulness. Joe, maybe this thread should move to the new forum heading for Tips?