DRAWZILLA

It works for my structural engineer.

They have several types of pen at livescribe.com

I would just nail a 2x block under the purlin, that's the old way, now we just extend posts up inside the wall to a beam with an approved steel connection. most of the time an interior shear wall has to extend to the roof anyway. and for me at least purlins are 4x and bigger depending on the situation.

Not if you use an "A35" clip

Downunder, Now I see, they just like to cause trouble.

Thanks Bill, A vert. beam can also be a purlin around here. I very rarely do those anymore with all the structural stuff we do.

To me a purlin is a beam breaking the span of the rafters, so for me they are always vert. you can also change a roof beam to show any size you want.

I just use the roof beam tool, it places them right up against the bottom of the rafters.

I don't care if its a real sun placement or not, I just want the scene to shine.

Auto rotating sun that always has the sun on the correct side for that view would be great, I'm always adjusting the sun. Sorry, mis -read the above.

It wasn't me, I have been just accepting what chief gives me, with no views looking from under the eaves or raise the top of the wall temporarily just for that view.

I gave

Yes but make sure you have auto rebuild floors/ ceiling on.

Sorry, Larry, I got nothing then, without a plan

Break the invisible wall at that point

Thanks guys, nice work, IMO Chief should make this easy for everyone, I've been doing it manually for 10 years now. I think you have something here.

I understand that but I only want the grade to show in the underfloor area not everywhere. I usually have my grade lines at 200 line weight. The sections look bad but the elevations look great showing the grade on. I still have to draw my own I guess.

As we all know the pier tops need to be 8" above the grade line, yet no grade line ever, at least where we want it. I really wish chief could show us a grade line at the correct height we want it. Right now I just manually draw 1 pier block it and copy exactly where I want it shown, then unblock it or it won't show in 3d. or section/ elevation views. also manually draw in each grade line.

You can also break any floor joists anywhere you want to by just drawing a bearing line anywhere on the plan.

I would say upgrade if its your business of course Chief is really designed for residential but a lot of people here do commercial drawings. If you really learn all Chief has to offer, you can do anything.

Ok, but I always want framing, even in soffits.

Joe, there would be no ceiling framing if it's a countertop.

I have always had min linewights set to 18 and go up from there. if you want to gray them out they will still print as long as you make them on the darker gray side.

Just turn those things off in your layerset. or set your glass to be non-see through here.

Hey, maybe I could drop some poundage with more clicks, ok Chief, forgot about less clicks.