glennw

Are you talking about a single room or a multi-room house? You could duplicate the room/s as many times as you want in the one floor plan and use the Remember Zoom Rotation setting to quickly auto zoom to the appropriate Saved Plan View. And then maybe use a Style Palette.

Not exactly what you want, but you can do this sort of thing in the window dbx with Lites to give you a look alike.

You did say copy, so... what Chop said plus Copy and Point To Point Move

Build>Framing>Build Framing>1st>Subfloor for Floor 2>check Build Floor Framing>or better still check Automatically Build Floor and Ceiling Framing.

That is working as designed. Piers snap to centre of wall main layer - you can't change that behaviour.

Moving the landing and not the stair works for me. Make sure Bumping/Pushing is toggled on. Make sure Stair Sections Move Independently is toggled off. Select only the landing and use the arrow keys to move the landing towards the wall - the stairs should stay attached to the landing and both should bump into the wall and maintain their alignment. I don't think this is correct. I can see that your stairs sections are connected by the presence by their section numbers being displayed. Open the stairs dbx and you should see both sections listed.

I am on a mac and can't do anything with the .rar file.

Here?

Obviously not every color option! My best guess is that you have black selected for both Header and Header Text in Preferences. Changing this will not change any existing material lists - only new ones.

Don't paint the wall - try changing the material in the wall definition. You must have missed this when you were looking in the help file.

Can you be a bit more specific about what you want and what is wrong with what you present plan.

I would definitely use Terrain Breaks along with a standard wall (Foundation wall if you want a footing). One Elevation Point on each level.

And if you don't like maths, there is always the Scale button.

A couple of reasons spring to mind immediately. It is easier just to draw objects at their correct real size without worrying about scale. Easier to dimension. It is easier to change the scale in if you need to.

You have been missing something. Best to draw at 1:1 and then scale when sent to layout.

I am not quite understanding your problem. Select the room with the lowered ceiling and check Shelf Ceiling and change the ceiling height for the room.

Assuming you want a mono slab. Select the Patio room and change the Stem Wall Top to -2".

I think this is happening because the external wall of the house is being broken at the retaining wall because the top of the lower pony under the doors is too close to the bottom of the lower pony wall under the triple window. ie, not enough "throat" to make it one contiguous wall. The 2 parts of the external pony wall are joining at the retaining wall. Can you drop the footing under the triple window a little? That would then allow you to make the rear wall of the house one continuous wall and place the step where you want.

Are you aware of all the hatch patterns in the library?

You can't create a fill pattern or export a fill pattern. What pattern are you after?

I originally thought that the best way would be to use 3D plants (2D plants would look pretty dicky) with either the Garden Bed tool or the Distribution tools because both these tools make it easy to automatically distribute objects. The idea would be to then to create a symbol and rotate to vertical. There was just too many surfaces and I gave up because it was taking too long on my machine. Someone else may have more luck with a faster machine. Why do just a boring old flat wall? Or you could crop this if you want to use as a picture.

There are a heap more files in the folders

This is what my help folder looks like:

In the room dbx, uncheck Use Soffit Surface For Ceiling.

Use terrain elevation data to shape the terrain and then sit the driveway on the terrain using a terrain feature.