glennw

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Everything posted by glennw

  1. The trailing text is the thickness of the main layer in the newly created wall. In this case 11".
  2. I am not 100% sure of your requirements but if you make the invisible wall between the 2 decks a no room def wall, or delete it, the deck framing will build correctly. It looks like that wall may have only been there for you to design the roof?
  3. I can think of two reasons straight off that may require the stairs to be built in a room definition. 1. If you have any winders in the stairs - probably unlikely with external stairs. 2. If you want to break the stairs and see the one flight going up on the lower floor and down from the upper floor, you need to build an open below room on the upper floor. Or...use some other tricks to get the same result.
  4. Let me know if you want to do a Zoom share screen and I will run you through the basics.
  5. I think you know what my comment on that would be! Can you post a plan - save me drawing one? I prefer to do it manually by using 3 stair sections. The auto stairs use 2 stairs and stair landings for the winders and landings. And you only get 2 winders - easier with manual.
  6. glennw

    Mystery

    Post the plan. I vaguely remember seeing this or similar more than a few years ago, but can't for the life of me remember the exact cause. It was something like a room with a higher ceiling, or a taller door, or......... I won't be able to sleep now!
  7. George, Pretty well as I said above...except. Once you have the stairs coming to a point, move the that point of the stairs that point to the correct location with Point To Point move. The stairs will probably then need the width adjusted - you can do that by dragging the outside of the stairs to bump the inside wall surface. Plan attached. I ignored the rails at this stage. 277319403_StairSample GLENN.plan
  8. George, The winders first. Place a straight stair, lock number of treads at 3. Select the stairs and while holding Ctrl drag the top of the stairs around so that the top is at 90deg to the bottom. Drag the small grip on the inside of the stairs to the center point -- use some guide lines if needed. Make sure the stairs are inside a room or you won't get any winders. I couldn't read the dimensions on your posted diagram. I just noticed you posted the plan - I will post anyway and have a look at your plan a bit later.
  9. Is this close to the type of fence you want?
  10. You can use Wall Coverings for down and dirty solution.
  11. You should be able to get most of the way there with the curved stair tools.
  12. You can change the label location of an Elevation Line. As far as I know, you can't change the label location of an auto generated Contour Line.
  13. I can't let this go without adding that if you are doing manual roofs, your best friend is the Join Roof Planes tool
  14. Look up the help file for Horizontal Framing - new to X13.
  15. I'm glad a 6 year old post could help!
  16. It would have been a lot more helpful if you had mentioned the problem was with the doors way back in your original post.
  17. This is way too much work for me. Besides, the wall Hatch tool hatches the entire width of a multilayered wall - not really great.
  18. Why are you saying this is an interior room? What is it that you are trying to do. As far as I can tell, the deck is a Balcony (room Function) which is an external room.
  19. Scott, Because the fill for the Auto Detail gets it's properties from the fill for the wall definition, can you arrive at a fill that has transparency that looks OK in both the plan view and cross section. You can then see the framing through the transparent fill when you Auto Detail. Not perfect, but works OK. I think we need separate defaults for plan wall fills and cross section fills.
  20. Like this? Done without a room divider. Done with a combination of Partition Wall and Edit Wall Layer Intersections.
  21. Rob, With regards to the wall breaks. They only work on the tops of the wall, not sides or bottom. So you need to manipulate the location of the break and edit the top of the wall to get the shape you want. It is a bit tricky until you understand how it works. With this wall, you can see where I have placed breaks in the 2 top sections of the wall - one horizontal and one sloping.
  22. So I am working on 4 drawings (I assume you mean open drawings) I change the floor/ceiling height default in one drawing and it changes the default floor/ceiling height in the other drawings. If the other drawings are using the floor/ceiling default, their floor/ceiling setting would change, along with all the other things that could follow on automatically like rebuild framing, rebuild roofs, dimensions...... I can't see how something like that would work without creating a huge mess. There are some tools that may help. There is the Set As Default option in the current plan - this allows you to manually change a setting and then make that setting the default in the current plan. There are all the individual Import options like Import Layer Sets, Import Defaults Sets, Import Saved Plan Views, etc, which allows you to import these from another plan file. Then there is Import Default Settings tool which has a choice of 81 defaults you can import from another plan file. So at the end of the day, say, after working on the current plan, open your template plan and import any defaults you want from your current working plan. To get quick to your template plan you could place a Link in a text box anywhere on the plan that is a shortcut to your template plan. Click on the Text item and then Follow Link on the Edit toolbar. This will open your template file ready for importing defaults. Note that it opens the template file itself - not a new plan based on the template. So make your changes, do your imports and save.