Corner Framing Option

[Greg_NY61]

How're you fellas, I hope everyone had a good weekend.

 

I have a quick question about the way a corner is being framed, I could swear I saw someplace there was an option where you can select the corner type but I can't find it. 

 

When I turned the framing on, and I never paid attention to that, but I just noticed that on one side the corner is being framed one way, the other side the other way. I made a sample how I like my corners to be framed and I know I saw an options for that bit I can't remember where it was or how to bring that up.

 

Maybe someone can help me out how to change that. Attached is the image of what I'm talking about.

 

Thanks!

[Larry_Sweeney]

I'm pretty sure you'll have to do that manually. You can go into the wall specifications, under the structure tab, to wall intersections and do a "through wall" at start or end and that will change the corner franimg some what, but it stills gives the same type/style of corner framing.

[Joe_Carrick]

If you do change to that type of corner framing - the electrician is going to hate you. 

[HumbleChief]

Here's what I get with these default out of the box settings. I tried a couple settings in the wall framing dbx and have no idea how you got the walls to frame that way Greg. The attached pic is the only way I can get them to frame.

 

Found it. Uncheck the "horizontal frame through" button will get you what I posted. Checking it will get you what you posted.

 

[builtright3]

If you do change to that type of corner framing - the electrician is going to hate you. 

 

I'm a framer and I don't understand this comment. We never frame outside corners like the way chief has it set up. Its always the way Greg wants it with three studs or there is a 4x4 on the corner. We used to do "stud block stud". In California you need something to attach the hold down to for your shear walls and up lift and/or you need the nailing surface for the plywood or OSB.

[Joe_Carrick]

I'm a framer and I don't understand this comment.

When the electrician has to do a horizontal run thru a solid framed corner it is a lot more difficult.

I do understand your statement about hold-downs and very often we have something even more substantial than 2x's at those locations.  However, particularly for interior walls it's less material and less work for other trades if the corners are framed the way Chief does it.  The pic Greg showed in the OP also limits the sheathing attachment at the inside corner to a very small width.  The pic Larry shows is better.

 

OTOH, I don't usually show Chiefs' framing in the ConDocs - leaving it up to the framers to do it the way they are accustomed to.  That's normally the way that will require the most material and labor

[builtright3]

When the electrician has to do a horizontal run thru a solid framed corner it is a lot more difficult.

I do understand your statement about hold-downs and very often we have something even more substantial than 2x's at those locations.  However, particularly for interior walls it's less material and less work for other trades if the corners are framed the way Chief does it.  The pic Greg showed in the OP also limits the sheathing attachment at the inside corner to a very small width.  The pic Larry shows is better.

 

OTOH, I don't usually show Chiefs' framing in the ConDocs - leaving it up to the framers to do it the way they are accustomed to.  That's normally the way that will require the most material and labor

 

I agree. You just didn't elaborate of other circumstances. I don't care how chief frames the corners because I don't use the materials list and I don't put the framing in any of the floor layouts. I refer to my framing details for that in the structural drawings.

 

Thank you Joe

[Greg_NY61]

Thank you everyone!

 

Joe, my electrician never raised an issue with my corners being build that way, I been doing corners that way for almost 30 years and he been doing my electrical work for as long, and he always gets the wire in without a problem.

 

I agree with Builtright, My carpenter dont need a framing plan, or material list, he does his own material takeoff from the plan dimensions. A few times in the past, I gave my lumber yard to do the takeoff and they use advanced takeoff software, and they always come up short or way over, so my carpenter been doing his own material list and he is always on the money. 

[Kbird1]

The top LH corner is how we frame a "normal" corner now except I use a 2x8 usually to pickup the drywall as a 2x6 doesn't leave enough "meat" IMHO to attach too as Joe said. It is done this way for Insulation , years ago the RH side corners is how we used to Frame corners and Partitions but is no longer allowed as it leaves a dead uninsulated area inside the "U" , at a partition we use an "L" now, a 2x6 and a 2x8 to pick up the drywall , once again so we can insulate behind the 2x8 .

 

My Elec. would hate me too if I did a solid corner like that, but like yours he'd get it done ,using the same technique he used on the old "U" corners all the while swearing and cursing

[kMoquin]

In the northeast we frame the corner the same way as Chief so we can get some insulation in there. there's a big thermal bridge at the fully blocked corner.

[Gawdzira]

Greg et al. Yes, that is the way "we" have always done it. The time has come to learn the new building science and with 2020 approaching fast "you" will have to learn how to deal with the thermal bridge. Unless you are insulating outside of your sheathing (which might be the best solution to achieve a moisture free wall) you will need to frame corners the way CA is doing it.

 

Even though I am in a mild climate I am training each framer on my jobs to learn methods that come from OVE framing good sense technique to deal with a complete insulation envelope. Heck, OVE framing will save you at least 30% of your lumber if it is fully implemented. That is a lot less nails, nailing, cutting, carrying, waste...and money out of your pocket (if you are the builder). My favorite comment from the buyer of my last spec project, "this house is really quiet". Tight complete envelope.